Things to do in Grenoble
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Fort de la Bastille
These days, the strategic importance of Fort de la Bastille might have waned, but the city and mountain views it proffers are spectacular. Three viewpoint indicators explain the surrounding vistas (glimpse Mont Blanc on clear days) and panels maps out hiking trails, some of which lead down the hillside.
To get to the fort, hop aboard the riverside Téléphérique Grenoble Bastille. The ascent in egg-shaped pods, which climb 264m from the quay over the swift waters of the River Isère, is almost more fun than the fort itself. Unsurprisingly, it gets crowded in summer - leave early to avoid the worst queues.
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Natural History Museum
Can't make it out of town? Take a break from the cultural circuit and get in touch with nature at the Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle. Alpine flora and fauna, a 'carnival of insects' and an aquarium are housed in an imposing neoclassical building overlooking leafy Jardin des Plantes (Botanical Garden).
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La Fondue
Gorge on so-smooth fondues laced with kirsch, Génépi and chartreuse or (double gorge) chocolate. An assortment of raclettes and tartiflettes completes the mountain cheese feast.
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Centre National d'Art Contemporain
Housed in the city's other architectural biggie, Grenoble's Centre National d'Art Contemporain is a must-see. Considered one of Europe's leading centres of contemporary art, it is dramatically placed in Le Magasin, a vast and hugely impressive glass and steel warehouse built by employees of Gustave Eiffel. There are two exhibition areas - a permanent 1000-sq-m space with a huge glass roof called 'The Rue' and a flexible space of about 900 sq m known as 'The Galleries'.
Charles Saatchi would be green with envy.
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Barberousse
There are 70-odd types of aromatic rum (think cherry, apple, papaya etc) to try - many fermenting in giant pirate-style glass flasks behind the counter - at this superbly hip shooter bar hidden down an alley. Down a shot of cherry, apple, papaya or other fruit-flavoured liqueurs. Note that a planteur is fruitier than a shooter,and backpacks must be left in the wardrobe (around €1).
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Musée de l'Ancien Évêché
On place Notre Dame, the Italianate Cathédrale Notre Dame and adjoining 13th-century Bishops' Palace – originally home to Grenoble's bishops – form this museum. The rich collection traces local history from prehistory to the 21st century, and takes visitors beneath the cathedral square to a crypt safeguarding old Roman walls and a baptistery dating from the 4th to 10th centuries.
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Grenoble Museum
Over museums? Don't miss this one. The sleek glass-and-steel Musée de Grenoble houses an exceptional out-of-Paris collection - its modern core is a revelation. A masterful Matisse keeps company with playful 20th-century ground-breakers by the likes of Klee, Chagall and Léger. Surrealists star (Magritte and Miró) and the abstract comes alive (Arp and Lewitt).
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Dauphinois Museum
Ever wondered who came before the tourists and students? The Musée Dauphinois documents everyday life in the Alps - culture, craft and tradition - and has a fantastic exhibition devoted to the region's surprisingly long skiing history. Set in a beautiful 17th-century convent and nestled at the foot of the hill below Fort de la Bastille, it's worth the visit.
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Le 365
This Pandora's box of knick-knacks oozes an atmosphere so relaxed it really is difficult to leave whatever the time of day. Hang out around low tables on comfy leather chairs and sip a hot chocolat Chartreuse (which comes with whipped cream, spiced bread, chocolate and dried fruit!) or something stronger. Look for the Michelin rubber-tyre man outside.
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Le Magasin - National Centre for Contemporary Art
Charles Saatchi would be green with envy. A European leader in contemporary art, the recently renovated Centre National d'Art Contemporain has two large exhibition areas - a glass-capped permanent space called 'The Rue' and the flexible 'Galleries'. The whole thing's wrapped in a hugely impressive glass-and-steel shell designed by Gustave Eiffel's studio.
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MC2
Grenoble's most dynamic all-rounder for theatre, dance, opera, jazz and other music. It's 2km south of the centre on tram line A, stop MC2.
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Fromagerie des Alpages
For newcomers to the region - whenever you hear the sweet words 'Savoyard specialties', know that fountains of fondue are around the corner. This Alpine speciality shop gets down to the cheesiest of business. Fromager Bernard Mure-Ravaud will introduce you to local dairy products including Gruyere, rigotte and St Felicien.
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La Mère Ticket
The homely cooking at this tiny, old-style French restaurant - think red-and-white checked tablecloths, lace curtains, handwritten menu and just four mains to choose from - hasn't changed for years! The poulet aux écrevisses (chicken with crayfish) and gratin dauphinois come highly recommended.
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Le Mal Assis
Le Mal Assis 'The Badly Seated' translates as a small but cosy, conventional, upmarket restaurant favoured by a smart, cultured crowd. Cuisine deviates little from old-school bourgeoise; think a choice of four traditional meats in the company of gratin dauphinois. Reservations recommended.
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Café de la Table Ronde
All hail this historic 1739 café, once the beloved haunt of Stendhal and Rousseau. Soak up the atmosphere on the square over regional fare like braised diots (mountain sausages) with gratin dauphinois, and nutty tarte aux noix (walnut tart).
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Ste-Claire Market
Load up with market-fresh fruit and flowers plus the makings of a slap-up lunch from the boulangeries (bakeries) and charcuteries (delicatessens) at les Halles Ste-Claire, Grenoble's lovely old covered market since 1874. Or simply admire the elegant, glass-fronted facade and fountain.
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Museum of Resistance and Deportation
This moving Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation de l'Isère examines the deportation of Jews and other 'undesirables' from Grenoble to Nazi camps during WWII, and explores the role of the Vercors region in the French Resistance. Captions are in French, English and German.
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Altitude 4810
Cheap and cheerful is the trademark of this cheesy but popular fake chalet where regional specialities like tartiflette (around €11.50), fondue(around €15.50) and raclette (around €15.50) are served up to a fairly undiscerning but hungry crowd.
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La Mandala
No more than a dozen tables fill this modern eating space with steely façade, kitchen behind glass, retro ceramic-green tiled bar and the day's market-driven specials chalked up au tableau (on the blackboard). Note les afters are obligatory!
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La Soupe aux Choux
Going strong for some 25 years, 'cabbage soup' stirs live jazz from swing to blues into Grenoble's after-dark mix. Find it a five-minute walk west of the Musée Dauphinois.
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Les Archers
This busy brasserie has great outside summer seating, cosy red leather banquet seating inside and a shellfish repetoire that is hard to beat. October to March an oyster-charged seafood platter is the thing to order. Home-made tripe is the other standout.
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Le Supplice de Tantale
No more than a handful of tables at a time can savour the exceptional seasonal fare cooked up from strictly local produce at this stylish upmarket bistro. The suggestion du moment (around €13 to around €20) invariably surprises.
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Archaeological Museum
The Musée Archéologique itself sits on a rich dig. Housed in a 12th-century church, it is atop an early Christian burial site. The highlight of the funerary complex, which dates from the 4th century, is the well-preserved crypt of St Ovand.
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Shaman Café
Submerge yourself in oriental opulence at this cavernous restaurant-cum-bar with low lighting and a cuisine that flits between India, Japan, Morocco and Italy. Particularly good value is its lunchtime buffet (around €10).
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Le Couche Tard
If you're too cool for school, check out the 'go to bed late', a grungy pub that actively encourages you to graffiti its walls. The merrier you become during happy hour (until 10pm daily), the more imaginative those doodles become...
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