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Around Tokyo
Once you've succumbed to Tokyo's manifold pleasures, and the capital has chewed you up, Godzilla-style, worry not: there's a whole other world out there, where spiritual sanctuaries, invigorating hot springs and idyllic natural scenery awaits; and most of it is less than two hours away from the city.
Rambling country ryokan (traditional Japanese inns), laid-back surf beaches, pristine lakes and cedar-lined trails are some of the delights in store, as well as the symbol of Japan itself, mighty Mt Fuji. There's history here too, including a medieval capital and ports that were among the first to open to the West.
Getting around is a relative breeze, with ferries and flights providing easy access to the volcanic Izu Islands. But if you're really looking to get away, then set sail for the World Heritage–listed Ogasawara Archipelago, a natural sanctuary 1000km south of Tokyo where you can spot whales and swim with dolphins.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Around Tokyo.
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Mt Fuji
Why you should go Fuji-san is among Japan 's most revered and timeless attractions, the inspiration for generations of poets and the focus of countless artworks. Hundreds of thousands of people climb it every year, continuing a centuries-old tradition of pilgrimages up the sacred volcano (which, despite its last eruption occurring in 1707, is still considered active). Whether or not you don the hiking boots to climb its busy slopes, taking some time to gaze upon the perfectly symmetrical cone of the country’s highest peak is an essential Japan experience. Hiking Mt Fuji The old adage about those who climb Fuji once being wise and a second time a fool remains as valid as ever. The hike is not the most scenic in the world, with barren landscapes and a summit that is often shrouded in cloud (obscuring views). Still, the sense of achievement and significance that comes with reaching the top of this sacred peak draws around 300,000 people during the annual climbing season, which runs from 1 July to 31 August – though in recent years this has often been extended to 10 September. Fuji is divided into 10 concentric ‘stations’ from base (first station) to summit (10th), but most climbers start halfway up at various fifth station points, reachable by road. The most popular climbing route is the Yoshida Trail, because buses run directly from Shinjuku Station to the trailhead at the Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (sometimes called the Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station or just Mt Fuji Fifth Station) and because it has the most huts (with food, water and toilets). For the Yoshida Trail, allow five to six hours to reach the top and about three hours to descend, plus 1½ hours for circling the crater at the top. The other three routes up the mountain are the Subashiri, Gotemba and Fujinomiya trails; the steepest, Gotemba, is the most convenient to reach for travellers coming from Kansai-area destinations such as Kyoto and Osaka. Trails below the fifth stations are now used mainly as short hiking routes, but you might consider the challenging but rewarding 19km hike from base to summit on the historic Old Yoshidaguchi Trail, which starts at Fuji Sengen-jinja in the town of Fuji-Yoshida and joins up with the Yoshida Trail. Trails to the summit are busy throughout the official trekking season. To avoid the worst of the crush head up on a weekday, or start earlier during the day to avoid the afternoon rush and spend a night in a mountain hut (arriving at the summit for dawn, which can offer great views if there’s no cloud!). Authorities strongly caution against climbing outside the regular season, when the weather is highly unpredictable and first-aid stations on the mountain are closed. Despite this, many people do climb out of season, as it's the best time to avoid the crowds. During this time, climbers generally head off at dawn, and return early afternoon – however, mountain huts on the Yoshida Trail stay open later into September when weather conditions may still be good; a few open the last week of June, when snow still blankets the upper stations. It's highly advised that off-season climbers register with the local police department for safety reasons; fill out the form at the Kawaguchi-ko or Fuji-Yoshida Tourist Information Centers. If you plan to hike, go slowly and take regular breaks to avoid altitude sickness. Hiking poles are a good idea to help avoid knee pain (especially during the descent). Hotels and restaurants From the Fifth Stations up, dozens of mountain huts offer hikers simple hot meals in addition to a place to sleep. Most huts allow you to rest inside as long as you order something. Conditions in mountain huts are spartan (a blanket on the floor sandwiched between other climbers), but reservations are recommended and are essential on weekends. It's also important to let huts know if you decide to cancel at the last minute; be prepared to pay to cover the cost of your no-show. Good choice mountain huts include Fujisan Hotel, Higashi Fuji Lodge and Taishikan. Camping on the mountain is not permitted, other than at the designated campsite near the Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (aka Kawaguchi-ko Fifth Station). Permits Permits are not required to climb Mt Fuji
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Cup Noodles Museum
This impressively slick attraction is dedicated to, you guessed it, cup noodles. But in reality, its focus is more broad, with numerous exhibitions detailing the entrepreneurial spirit of Momofuku Ando (the inventor of instant noodles), and, even more broadly, the vital importance of creative thinking. Its host of wacky exhibits are a hit with children from all over Japan. After months of trial and error, Momofuku Ando invented instant chicken ramen in a shed behind him home in 1958, partly as a response to on-going food shortages in the post-war era. Despite the name of the museum, the cup wasn't actually added until 1971. A recreation of Ando's work shed is on display at the museum, as well as artwork retelling the story of his life. Interactive exhibits include a cooking station, where kids can make their own chicken ramen, a popular workshop for designing your own cup noodle packaging, and a large play park where kids take on the role of a noodle working its way through a giant factory. The museum is also home to a shop selling branded goods and a restaurant serving up varieties of noodles from around the world. Tickets and other practicalities Tickets to enter the museum are ¥500 for adults, while entry is free for kids. There are additional fees for undertaking the ramen making workshop (adult/child ¥800/500), designing your own cup noodle packaging (¥400) and entering the play park (¥400 for 30 minutes). Tickets are purchased at the museum.
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Tōshō-gū
Tōshō-gū is Nikkō's biggest attraction, a shrine to the powerful shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616). No expense was spared: when the original structure (completed in 1617) was deemed unsuitably grand, Ieyasu's grandson had it renovated two decades later, calling on the most celebrated artists of the day to work on the lavish structures, which are ornamented with gold leaf and black lacquer. It took 15,000 people to complete the project, at the modern equivalent of $100 million in manpower alone. The compound was designed for maximum gravitas: visitors approach via a path lined with towering cedar trees, passing through a succession of ever more elaborate gates, decorated with carvings of mythical creatures like dragons, phoenixes and baku (a chimera who eats dreams). The shrine has been undergoing restoration work for over a decade, which was finally completed in 2019. As a result the structures are brilliant in colour, as they would have looked in the 17th century (when bold statement design was in vogue). The painstaking work was carried out using traditional materials (the white paint, for example, was made from powdered shells. The first gate is Ishi-dorii, made of stone and dating to Tōshō-gū's original construction in 1619. To the left is 34.3m-tall Gōjūnotō, an 1819 reconstruction of the the five-storey pagoda first built in the mid-17th-century. The next gate is Omote-mon, guarded on either side by Deva kings. In the outer courtyard are the Sanjinko, the 'Three Sacred Storehouses', built in the azekura-zukuri style of architecture (horizontally-stacked logs, often triangle-shaped). On the upper storey of the Kami-jinko (upper storehouse) are relief carvings of elephants by the highly-esteemed artist, Kanō Tan'yū, as he imagined them to look (having never seen the real thing). Look to your right to see the Shinkyūsha, the 'Sacred Stable' and the only building of unpainted wood in the whole complex. It is crowned with relief carvings of the allegorical 'hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil' monkeys, which demonstrate principles of Buddhist morality. They're also Nikkō's unofficial symbol. Just past it is the temizuya (font), with a Chinese-style gabled roof. In the far left corner of the courtyard is the Honji-dō, which has a painting on its ceiling of the Nakiryū (Crying Dragon). Monks demonstrate the hall's acoustic properties by clapping two sticks together. The dragon 'roars' (a bit of a stretch) when the sticks are clapped beneath its mouth, but not elsewhere. The next gate is Tōshō-gū's—and Japan's—most elaborately decorated one. Yōmei-mon, a National Treasure, has over 500 carved images depicting folk tales, mythical beasts and Chinese sages, restored to its original brilliant white and gold. Worrying that its perfection might arouse envy in the gods, those responsible for the gate's construction had the final supporting pillar installed upside down as a deliberate error. A second gate, Kara-mon (唐門), also a National Treasure, leads to the shrine's inner courtyard. It's less ornate than the Yōmei-mon but considered more elegant and refined, in white, black and gold with lacquer inlay. The walls on the sides of both gates also have fantastic carvings, including peony arabesques. There are also many stone lanterns around the complex, which were gifted by loyal daimyō (feudal lords). Gōhonsha, the main shrine, is built in the H-shaped gongen-zukuri style, with its Honden (本殿; Main Hall) and Haiden (拝殿; Hall of Worship) connected by a stone corridor. Inside these halls are paintings of the 36 immortal poets of Kyoto, and a ceiling-painting pattern from the Momoyama period; note the 100 dragons, each different. Fusuma (sliding door) paintings depict a kirin (a mythical beast that's part giraffe and part dragon). On the right, near the entrance to the inner courtyard, is another gate, Sakashita-mon (坂下門), from where 207 stone steps lead to Okusha, the inner shrine, where Ieyasu is entombed. It's decorated not with dragons or phoenixes but with a sleeping cat, nemuri-neko. The diminutive carving is one of the most famous in Japan, attributed to the legendary (and possibly just a legend) artist Hidari Jingorō. Ieyasu is buried under a 5m-tall five-storey pagoda cast of gold, silver and bronze. As Tōshō-gū is one of Japan's most famous attractions, it is routinely crowded, often with school groups and bus tours. Try to get here as early as possible.
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Hakone Open-Air Museum
Occupying a verdant swath of Hakone hillside is this unmissable art safari, leading visitors past a rich array of 19th- and 20th-century sculptures and installations by leading Japanese artists as well as the likes of Henry Moore, Rodin and Miró, harmoniously plonked into the landscape. If it's raining, take shelter in the humongous Picasso Pavilion with more than 300 of his works inside, ranging from paintings and glass art to tapestry. Kids will love the giant crochet artwork/playground with its Jenga-like exterior walls, as well as the spiral staircase of the stained-glass Symphonic Structure. End the day by soaking your feet in the outdoor footbath. Hakone Freepass holders get ¥200 off the admission price.
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Kenchō-ji
Established in 1253, Japan's oldest Zen monastery is still active today. The central Butsuden (Buddha Hall) was brought piece by piece from Tokyo in 1647. Its Jizō Bosatsu statue, unusual for a Zen temple, reflects the valley's ancient function as an execution ground – Jizō consoles lost souls. Other highlights include a bell cast in 1253 and a juniper grove, believed to have sprouted from seeds brought from China by Kenchō-ji's founder some seven centuries ago. The temple once comprised seven buildings and 49 subtemples, most of which were destroyed in fires during the 14th and 15th centuries. However, the 17th and 18th centuries saw its restoration, and you can still get a sense of its original splendour. Kenchō-ji offers beginner-friendly, public zazen sessions from 5pm to 6pm on Fridays and Saturdays (enter before 4.30pm). Instruction is in Japanese, but you can easily manage by watching everyone else; arrive at least 15 minutes early. Zazen sessions in English (¥1000) are scheduled for specific dates every couple of months, for which you must apply in advance; see website for details.
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Daibutsu
Kamakura's most iconic sight, an 11.4m bronze statue of Amida Buddha ( amitābha in Sanskrit), is in Kōtoku-in, a Jōdo sect temple. Completed in 1252, it's said to have been inspired by Yoritomo's visit to Nara (where Japan's biggest Daibutsu holds court) after the Minamoto clan's victory over the Taira clan. Once housed in a huge hall, today the statue sits in the open, the hall having been washed away by a tsunami in 1498. For an extra ¥20, you can duck inside to see how the sculptors pieced the 850-tonne statue together. Buses from stops 1 and 6 at the east exit of Kamakura Station run to the Daibutsu-mae stop (¥200). Alternatively, take the Enoden Enoshima line to Hase Station and walk north for about eight minutes. Better yet, take the Daibutsu Hiking Course.
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Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū
Kamakura's most important shrine is, naturally, dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war. Minamoto no Yoritomo himself ordered its construction in 1191 and designed the pine-flanked central promenade that leads from the shrine to the coast. The sprawling grounds are ripe with historical symbolism: the Gempei Pond, bisected by bridges, is said to depict the rift between the Minamoto (Genji) and Taira (Heike) clans. The shrine itself houses a small museum filled with religious artefacts (¥200); pick up the English translation sheet. For more treasures, the on-site Kamakura National Treasure Museum houses remarkable Buddhist sculptures from the 12th to 16th centuries.
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Taiyū-in
Taiyū-in, completed in 1653, is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604–51), the third Tokugawa shogun and grandson of Ieyasu. (Ieyasu was deified, which earned him a shrine; Iemitsu was given an 'ordinary' temple burial). It has many of the same features as Tōshō-gū : monumental gates, elaborate woodcarvings, lacquer and gold leaf, but is less grand (so as not to appear impudent). Many visitors find they prefer Taiyū-in for its comparatively restrained (though indeed still ornate) elegance, and also its fewer crowds. Particularly impressive is its series of gates, Niō-mon (仁王門; 'Gate of the Virtuous Kings'), Niten-mon (二天門; 'Gate of the Heavenly Kings') and Yasha-mon (夜叉門; yasha are supernatural beings of Hindu origin), all guarded by fearsome deities. As part of Nikkō extensive restoration work, the statues have been returned to their polychrome glory, and look straight from the pages of a comic book. The final gate, Kara-mon (唐門; 'Chinese-style gate'), is decorated with more demure carvings of dragons and cranes. Taiyū-in's Honden (本殿; Main Hall) and Haiden (拝殿; Hall of Worship) are almost entirely encased in gold leaf (with a slightly red sheen) and glossy black lacquer. Inside the main hall, 140 dragons painted on the ceiling are said to carry prayers to the heavens; those holding pearls are on their way up, and those without are returning to gather more prayers.
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Perry Road
It takes less than 10 minutes to walk end-to-end of this quaint cobbled street shadowing a narrow stream leading to Ryōsen-ji temple. However, the appealing ambience of old houses under willow trees now occupied by cafes, jazz bars, boutique shops and restaurants will encourage you to linger. At the east end, you can enter the old Sawamura's House (c 1915), overlooking the corner of the canal, which used to belong to a mayor of Shimoda.