Sant'Onofrio

Church in Trastevere & Gianicolo

If this church were in another town, it would be a highlight, but in Rome it's just another church. Atmospherically forlorn, with weeds sprouting between the stones, it's fitting that it was founded by the order of the Hermits of St Jerome in the 15th century. Rich frescoes are dappled by shadows inside. It's all very quiet. To the right of the entrance, look for a door that when unlocked leads to modest cloisters with a few olive trees.

Combine a visit to the church with a walk along the ridge of Gianicolo and the Garibaldi Monument.