Honduras

Honduras' most popular backpacker haunt, little Utila is also one of the cheapest places in the world to learn how to dive. You'll meet people here daily who came to get certified, went home, sold all their stuff and came back on a one-way ticket. Utila's sublime tropical beauty and chilled-out vibe makes it hard to not to entertain that idea yourself at least once.

The island is only about 13km long and 5km wide, and is focused around Utila Town, the island's only settlement, which is set on a curving bay with two small beaches and dozens of hotels, restaurants, bars and dive shops. There are few roads and much of the island is impenetrable wilderness accessible only by sea.

Another draw: juvenile whale sharks – gentle giants measuring up to 6m long – are spotted around the island. Spotting one is like winning the ocean jackpot.

If you're short on time or money, plan on seeing the Archaeological Park (Principal Group) only. Entry to this portion costs US$15 per person and includes entry to Las Sepultras two kilometers away. Adding access to Tunel Rosalila and Tunel de los Jaguares – which are certainly cool but contain only a few carvings behind glass – costs another US$15 per person; admission to the Museo de Esculturas (which houses many of the original sculptures from the site and is worth visiting) is US$7.

To really bring the ruins to life, hire a guide from the excellent Asociación de Guías Copán who will approach you when you buy your ticket. Prices are for groups of up to five people.

Count on 90 minutes to see the main site with a guide, or three to four hours to see the site, tunnels, Las Sepultras and the museum.

The best accommodation options on Cayos Cochinos, these two charming and simple wooden cabins are clean and comfortable, right on the beach and sleep nine people each. They're comfortable, and you may well have the place to yourself, unless you're here on the weekend or over a big holiday. The restaurant has excellent food; you can also rent snorkeling gear.

The Río Cangrejal offers superb white-water rafting. The scenery is immense, with the river coursing through rainforest that's part of the Parque Nacional Pico Bonito. You've a good chance of seeing herons, kingfishers and toucans.

There are two main sections of the Cangrejal: the upper part is hard-core, offering real Class IV and V thrills, rapids and speed. After very heavy rain it may not be possible to raft here. The lower section offers year-round Class III rafting, with the river surging around giant boulders.

Whichever section you choose, you'll need an experienced, competent guide – accidents have occurred in the upper section of the Cangrejal after heavy rainfall, when conditions can be particularly treacherous. Always check out the situation first with your tour operator (you can book through your lodge).

Largely undeveloped and ringed by mountains and dense tropical forest, Lago de Yojoa is an exceptionally scenic oasis. Thanks to the indefatigable efforts of a local microbrewery owner to promote the region, the lake is now the most popular spot for travelers breaking the journey between the Bay Islands and Nicaragua.

Lago de Yojoa's birdlife is world-class: the latest species count is up to 485 – over half the total in Honduras – including the elusive quetzal. You can also hike to remote waterfalls and the summit of Santa Bárbara, visit coffee plantations, go zip-lining or kayak on the lake itself (swimming is possible but the lake is shallow and chock-full of vegetation).

Peña Blanca is the main transportation hub near the lake; it's a bustling but uninteresting commercial town. Los Naranjos, an otherwise unremarkable village some way down the road, is where most travelers base themselves at D&D Brewery.

Roatán is the largest and most developed of the Bay Islands. Long and thin (50km long, but only 2km to 4km wide), the island is (like neighboring Utila) a diving and snorkeling paradise – virtually its entire coastline is fringed by an astonishingly diverse coral reef teeming with tropical fish. On land, exquisite white-sand beaches like West Bay, a mountainous interior of pine-forested hills and the remote wild east of the island (once a pirate hangout) beg to be explored.

Roatán attracts a far more midrange crowd than Utila, and has fewer budget options. Nearly all backpackers base themselves in West End, where most of the shoestring places are located along with a lively and fun traveler's scene.

Gigantic cruise ships visit Roatán regularly, but dock at Coxen Hole or Mahogany Bay. You'll probably see minivans full of cruise-shippers around the island's hot spots during the day.

The Moskitia (named for the Moskito people who live here, not the bloodthirsty insects) is one of the region's last frontiers of untamed wilderness. Huge expanses are virtually untouched jungle, and when combined with magnificent wetland and savanna habitats it's no wonder the region is often dubbed Central America's Amazon. You'll primarily hear the Moskito language spoken near the coasts, although most people also easily communicate in Spanish.

Manatees, tapirs and jaguars all thrive here, but aren't easy to spot. Crocodiles can be seen in the waters, while the birdlife, including macaws and fish eagles, is outstanding.

A visit to this region is not for the faint-hearted – access is tricky and conditions are rustic at best. Transport and safety are improving, however, and a trip through the Moskitia is a very adventurous way to cross into Nicaragua. Lancha voyages through rivers, past savannas and across great lagoons are a highlight.

High above the waves, gazing over the Caribbean toward the European motherland, this 17th-century Spanish fortress could not have a more evocative position. Though its ruined remains are not that impressive visually, it's still an inspirational spot to reflect on the forces and characters that shaped the history of the North American continent.