Tree-lined streets Xinhepu Lu (新河浦路), Xuguyuan Lu (恤孤院路) and Peizheng Lu (培正路) in the historic Dōngshān area offer a welcome respite from the city. Here you'll find schools and churches raised by American missionaries in the 1900s, and exquisite villas commissioned by overseas Chinese and military bigwigs of the Kuomintang.

The most beautifully restored building is the three-storey Kuí Yuán, built in 1922 by an overseas Chinese living in America. Spring Garden was the headquarters of the central committee of the Chinese Communist Party in 1923.

From exit E of the Dongshankou metro station, walk south along Shuqian Lu until Miaoqianzhi Jie, then east (left) and you'll reach Xuguyuan Lu. If you want to eat, Guigangdama Lu (龟岗大马路) is lined with cheap dim sum eateries and bubble-tea booths.

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