Looking for temples without the tourist hordes? The remote temples of Northwestern Cambodia are a world apart. While hilltop Prasat Preah Vihear is the big hitter, the other temple complexes – wrapped in vines and half-swallowed by jungle – are all fabulous to wander.
In the region's heart is Tonlé Sap, one of the world's most fish-rich lakes and a birder's paradise. Boat trips from Kompong Chhnang and Krakor (near Pursat) to the floating villages that cluster along this important waterway allow you to dip your toes in lake life.
When forays into the region's far-flung corners are complete, the Northwest has one more surprise up its sleeve. Laid-back Battambang, with its burgeoning arts scene, is the main city here. There's a wealth of brilliant sights all within day-tripping distance of town – making it a worthy pit stop when all the hard traveling is done.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northwestern Cambodia.
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Beautiful, peaceful and covered in astonishingly intricate bas-reliefs, Banteay Chhmar is one of the most impressive temple complexes beyond the Angkor area. About a two-hour drive from Siem Reap, these remote ruins are also the site of a superb community-based homestay and tourism program. If you're looking for an opportunity to delve into Cambodian rural life and spend some quality time amid a temple complex far from the crowds, you could hardly find a more perfect spot.
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The most dramatically situated of all Angkorian monuments, Prasat Preah Vihear sprawls along a clifftop near the Thai border, with breathtaking views of lowland Cambodia 550m below. An important place of pilgrimage for millennia, the temple was built by a succession of seven Khmer monarchs, beginning with Yasovarman I (r 889–910) and ending with Suryavarman II (r 1112–52). Like other temple-mountains from this period, it was designed to represent Mt Meru and dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva.
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Cambodia’s most impressive group of pre-Angkorian monuments, Sambor Prei Kuk encompasses more than 100 mainly brick temples scattered through the forest, among them some of the oldest structures in the country. The attraction was recently named Cambodia's third Unesco World Heritage site. A 40-minute drive from Kompong Thom, the area has a serene and soothing atmosphere, with the sandy trails between temples looping through the shady forest. A community-based tourism initiative employs local guides, organises activities and sets up homestays.
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For tantalising lost-world ambience, this remote temple complex about 90km south of Preah Vihear City can't be beaten. It's wrapped by vines and trees, and thanks to its back-of-beyond location, the site is astonishingly peaceful. You'll very likely be the only visitor, although you’ll need private transport to get here. Preah Khan of Kompong Svay is the largest temple enclosure constructed during the Angkorian period, quite a feat when you consider the competition.
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This fabled limestone outcrop 12km southwest of Battambang along NH57 (towards Pailin) is known for its gorgeous views and mesmerising display of bats, which pour out of a massive cave in its cliff face. Access to the summit is via a cement road or – if you're in need of a workout – a steep staircase. The road is too steep for remorks. Moto drivers hang out near the base of the hill and can whisk you up and back for US$4.
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About 2km south of central Battambang, the village of Wat Kor is centred around the temple of the same name. It's a great place to wander, especially late in the afternoon when the opposite (east) bank of the Sangker River is bathed in amber tones by the sinking sun. Picturesque bridges span the river, the spires of Wat Kor glow bright platinum and Khmer village life is on full display.
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Much less visited than other floating villages near Siem Reap, the Tonlé Sap River hamlet of Chong Kos is a Cambodian village of colourful wooden houses, with tiny terraces strung with hammocks, all built on rickety DIY pontoons. To fully explore the village, hire a wooden boat (with captain) at Kompong Chhnang dock (US$10 per hour, up to three people) to paddle you through this fully buoyant town, complete with shops, satellite TV and mobile vegetable vendors.
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Midway between Battambang and Prasat Banan, in an area known for its production of chilli peppers (harvested from October to January), Cambodia’s only winery grows Shiraz grapes to make reds. It tastes unlike most wine you’ve ever encountered, but is actually quite earthy and complex.
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In order to save three critically endangered species – the white-rumped, slender-billed and red-headed vultures – the Wildlife Conservation Society (www.wcs.org) set up a ‘vulture restaurant’ in the village of Dong Plet, northeast of Chaeb on the edge of the Preah Vihear Protected Forest. A cow carcass is placed in a field, and visitors waiting in a nearby bird hide watch as these incredibly rare vultures move in to devour the carrion. Visits are offered by Siem Reap–based Sam Veasna Center.