Northwestern Cambodia

Looking for temples without the tourist hordes? The remote temples of Northwestern Cambodia are a world apart. While hilltop Prasat Preah Vihear is the big hitter, the other temple complexes – wrapped in vines and half-swallowed by jungle – are all fabulous to wander.

In the region's heart is Tonlé Sap, one of the world's most fish-rich lakes and a birder's paradise. Boat trips from Kompong Chhnang and Krakor (near Pursat) to the floating villages that cluster along this important waterway allow you to dip your toes in lake life.

When forays into the region's far-flung corners are complete, the Northwest has one more surprise up its sleeve. Laid-back Battambang, with its burgeoning arts scene, is the main city here. There's a wealth of brilliant sights all within day-tripping distance of town – making it a worthy pit stop when all the hard traveling is done.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northwestern Cambodia.

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Preah Khan Main Temple
The main temple is surrounded by a (now dry) moat similar to the one around Angkor Thom. Once through the grand gateway, the trail meanders past a dharmasala (pilgrim's rest house) and through another crumbling pavilion to the central temple area of half-toppled prang (temple towers), entangled with trees and overgrown by forest. Despite all the damage by looters in the 1990s and more recent problems with theft, this crumbling temple, half lost to the jungle, is a remarkable site with some well-preserved bas-reliefs.
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Romcheik 5 Artspace
Expanded from a workshop into a bona fide gallery in 2015, this impressive space has a permanent collection upstairs displaying the edgy, contemporary works of its four founders, who in their youth were expelled from Thailand and forced to work as child labourers, before being rescued by an NGO and encouraged to express themselves through art. The results are awe-inspiring. Downstairs are rotating exhibits highlighting some of Battambang's best local talent.
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Wat Kor Village
About 2km south of central Battambang, the village of Wat Kor is centred around the temple of the same name. It's a great place to wander, especially late in the afternoon when the opposite (east) bank of the Sangker River is bathed in amber tones by the sinking sun. Picturesque bridges span the river, the spires of Wat Kor glow bright platinum and Khmer village life is on full display. About 1.5km beyond Wat Kor, you'll encounter the cluster of Khmer heritage houses that the village is known for. Built of now-rare hardwoods over a century ago and surrounded by orchard gardens, they have wide verandahs and exude the ambience of another era. Two of the approximately 20 heritage houses in the Wat Kor area are open to visitors: Mrs Bun Roeung's Ancient House and neighbouring Khor Sang House. The owner of each will give you a short tour in French or English. They have floors worn lustrous by a century of bare feet and are decorated with old furniture and family photos. Mrs Bun Roeung's Ancient House was built in 1920 by a local lawyer. The owners have turned the rear section of the house into homestay accommodation – a unique option for architecture and history fans. Khor Sang House was built in 1907 by the French-speaking owner’s grandfather, who served as a secretary to the province’s last Thai governor. The rear section dates from 1890.
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Prasat Yeai Poeun
Prasat Yeai Poeun is arguably the most atmospheric of Sambor Prei Kuk's three temple groups, as it feels lost in the forest. The eastern gateway is being both held up and torn asunder by an ancient tree, the bricks interwoven with the tree’s extensive, probing roots. A truly massive tree shades the western gate.
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Prasat Preah Stung
About 2km west of Preah Khan's baray stands Prasat Preah Stung (known to locals as Prasat Muk Buon or Temple of the Four Faces). It's particularly memorable because its central tower (held up by bamboo scaffolding) is adorned with four enigmatic, Bayon-style faces of Avalokiteshvara.
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Prasat Tor
The largest of the Sambor Prei Kuk temple complexes, Prasat Tor has excellent examples of Chenla carving in the form of two large, elaborately coiffed stone lions. It also has a fine, rectangular pond, Srah Neang Pov.
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Wat Somrong Knong
About 4km north of Battambang, Wat Somrong Knong was built in the 19th century on the site of a pre-Angkorian temple complex. The Khmer Rouge used the temple grounds as a prison, and it's believed that around 10,000 people were executed here. The complex today houses the gorgeous main pagoda and a mishmash of ancient ruins, glittery modern structures and memorials to those who perished here. Just outside the complex's southwest wall is a memorial shrine festooned with grisly bas-reliefs of Khmer Rouge atrocities. A glass case contains victims' skulls. To get here, cross the bridge over the Sangker River 1.7km north of the ferry pier, then continue north on the other side for another 1.7km and take a right on a small dirt road. Continue 500m down this road to the site. If coming from the north, it's about 2.5km south of the bridge near the prahoc factory.
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Battambang Museum
This petite provincial museum has been given a full makeover thanks to the generous support of Friends of Khmer Culture (FOKC; www.khmerculture.net) and now has state-of-the-art lighting and detailed signage in English and Khmer. There are some beautiful Angkorian lintels and elegant statuary from all over Battambang Province, including pieces from Prasat Banan and Sneng. There is also a detailed introduction to the pre-Angkorian Neolithic period of cave-dwelling in Laang Spean Cave. Official entry is set at US$3 per person, but the staff were only requesting a US$1 donation during our visit.
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Mrs Bun Roeung's Ancient House
Built of now-rare hardwoods almost a century ago and surrounded by an orchard garden, Mrs Bun Roeung's Ancient House has a wide verandah and exudes the ambience of another era. The house is open to visitors and the owner can give you a short tour in French or English. The owners have converted the rear section of the house into unique homestay accommodation, which architecture and history fans will especially appreciate. The cost is from US$60 per night including breakfast.