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Eastern Cambodia

Home to diverse landscapes and peoples, eastern Cambodia shatters the illusion that the country is all paddy fields and sugar palms. There are plenty of those in the lowland provinces, but here they yield to the mountains of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri Provinces, where ecotourism is playing a major role in the effort to save dwindling forests from the twin ravages of illegal logging and land concessions.

Rare forest elephants and vocal primates are found in the northeast, and endangered freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins can be seen year-round near Kratie and Stung Treng. Thundering waterfalls, crater lakes and meandering rivers characterize the landscape, and trekking, biking, kayaking, ziplining and ethical elephant interactions are all taking off. The rolling hills and lush forests also provide a home to many indigenous communities, known collectively as Khmer Leu (Upper Khmer) or chunchiet.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Cambodia.

  • See

    Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary

    The 3000-sq-km Keo Seima (formerly called Seima Protected Forest) hosts the country’s greatest treasure trove of mammalian wildlife. Besides unprecedented numbers of black-shanked doucs and southern yellow-cheeked crested gibbons, an estimated 115 wild elephants – accounting for around a quarter of Cambodia's total population – roam the park, along with bears and cats. The Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) helps to manage the forest, and there are a range of ecotourism initiatives under way, including primate spotting in Andong Kroloeng. The bird life is also impressive, and the jungle, which is lusher and denser than the dry forest in eastern Mondulkiri, has been relatively well preserved. Well-trained English-speaking guides accompany guests on wildlife-spotting trips for around US$85 to US$125 per person per day. Overnight stays are possible in the Jahoo Gibbon Camp, located on-site. There's a flat US$30-per-person conservation fee for both day and overnight visits. All visitors must wear neon yellow vests when entering the forest. The idea is that the primates will come to recognise yellow-vested people as harmless tourists they needn't flee from (as opposed to the drab-clothed loggers and poachers lurking on the park's periphery). The road to Sen Monorom passes right through the sanctuary, so keep an eye out for monkeys if driving through. Andong Kroloeng lies about 5km from the NH76 and about 30km from Sen Monorom. The rates include a 4WD transfer from the NH76 for the last 5km to the camp, as the road can get extremely messy in the wet season (after heavy rains, you may need to walk the last 2km). For the latest developments on tours in the park, contact the Hefalump Cafe in Sen Monorom. Book directly with either the Sam Veasna Center – based in Siem Reap and focused on extended stays, particularly for birders – or The Hangout in Sen Monorom, which is focused on more budget-friendly gibbon spotting.

  • See

    Bou Sraa Waterfall

    Plunging into the dense jungle below, this is one of Cambodia's most impressive falls. Famous throughout the country, this double-drop waterfall has an upper tier of some 10m and a spectacular lower tier with a thundering 25m drop. Getting here involves a 33km, one-hour journey east of Sen Monorom on a mostly sealed road. The sprawling Bou Sraa Eco-Park at the falls is home to a cultural village, craft stands and some simple eateries. This is also the location of the thrilling Mayura Zipline, which now manages the site.

  • See

    Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre

    This rundown (but well-meaning) wildlife conservation centre lies within the temple grounds of Wat Sorsor Moi Roi in Sambor, about 35km north of Kratie. Established by Conservation International (www.conservation.org), it is home to the rare Cantor’s giant softshell turtle, which was only rediscovered along this stretch of the Mekong in 2007. One of the largest freshwater turtles, it can grow to nearly 2m in length. Hatchlings are nurtured here for 10 months before being released in the wild. Tourists can participate in the release on select weeks, usually in May or June. Check the Facebook page for exact dates.

  • See

    Wat Sorsor Moi Roi

    Wat Sorsor Moi Roi, held up by 108 columns and covered in vibrant murals, was constructed on the site of a 19th-century wooden temple, a few pillars of which are still located at the back of the compound. The Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre is located within the temple grounds, 35km north of Kratie in the village of Sambor. Sambor was the site of a thriving pre-Angkorian city during the time of Sambor Prei Kuk and the Chenla empire. Not a stone of this remains in the modern town of Sambor. To get here, follow the road north from Kampi to Sandan, before veering left along a newly paved 10km stretch of road.

  • See

    Wat Roka Kandal

    This beautiful little temple dating from the 19th century is one of the oldest in the region. The restored interior now houses a small handicraft centre with infrequent hours. Even if you find it closed, the shaded grounds, adjacent to some lovely traditional wooden houses, are worth a wander. It's about 2km south of Kratie on the road to Chhlong.

  • See

    Wat Phnom Doh Kromom

    Looming over the northeast corner of the airstrip, Wat Phnom Doh Kromom has Mondulkiri’s best sunset vista, where a wooden platform lets you take in the views over Sen Monorom. Continue another 5km north to the wat for Samot Cheur (Ocean of Trees), a viewpoint overlooking an emerald forest to the east.

  • See

    Phnom Sombok

    This small hill with an active wat offers the best views across the Mekong on this stretch of the river. Located on the road from Kratie to Kampi, a visit here can easily be combined with a trip to see the dolphins for an extra couple of dollars.

  • See

    Chhlong

    The main attraction in this somnolent riverside town, 31km south of Kratie, is the old governor’s residence, a gorgeous yellow-and-white French colonial mansion near the river. It's now a top-end boutique hotel, Le Relais de Chhlong. Architecture buffs might also drop in at the House of a Hundred Pillars (1884), about 500m north of Le Relais. According to the house’s owner, the Khmer Rouge removed many of the pillars, so only 56 remain. A few more decrepit French colonial buildings line the river. Chhlong is worth a wander if you are driving through with your own transport, but is probably not worth a special trip from Kratie. Keen cyclists might like to follow the old river road between Kratie and Chhlong, as it passes through some traditional Cham minority villages along the way.

  • See

    Romanear Waterfall

    Romanear is a low, wide waterfall with some convenient swimming holes, though private development threatens to change its pristine charm. Set 18km southeast of Sen Monorom, it's very difficult to find without assistance, so it’s best to take a moto (motorcycle taxi) or local guide. Nearby is a second waterfall, known rather originally as Romanear II. It's by a pepper plantation near the main road between Sen Monorom and Snuol.