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Eastern Cambodia

Home to diverse landscapes and peoples, eastern Cambodia shatters the illusion that the country is all paddy fields and sugar palms. There are plenty of those in the lowland provinces, but here they yield to the mountains of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri Provinces, where ecotourism is playing a major role in the effort to save dwindling forests from the twin ravages of illegal logging and land concessions.

Rare forest elephants and vocal primates are found in the northeast, and endangered freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins can be seen year-round near Kratie and Stung Treng. Thundering waterfalls, crater lakes and meandering rivers characterize the landscape, and trekking, biking, kayaking, ziplining and ethical elephant interactions are all taking off. The rolling hills and lush forests also provide a home to many indigenous communities, known collectively as Khmer Leu (Upper Khmer) or chunchiet.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Cambodia.

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Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary
The 3000-sq-km Keo Seima (formerly called Seima Protected Forest) hosts the country’s greatest treasure trove of mammalian wildlife. Besides unprecedented numbers of black-shanked doucs and southern yellow-cheeked crested gibbons, an estimated 115 wild elephants – accounting for around a quarter of Cambodia's total population – roam the park, along with bears and cats. The Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) helps to manage the forest, and there are a range of ecotourism initiatives under way, including primate spotting in Andong Kroloeng.
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Boeng Yeak Lom
At the heart of the protected area of Boeng Yeak Lom is a beautiful, emerald-hued crater lake set amid the vivid greens of the towering jungle. It is one of the most peaceful, beautiful locations Cambodia has to offer and the water is extremely clear. Several wooden piers are dotted around the perimeter, making it perfect for swimming. A small Cultural and Environmental Centre has a modest display on ethnic minorities in the province and hires out life jackets for children.
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Bou Sraa Waterfall
Plunging into the dense jungle below, this is one of Cambodia's most impressive falls. Famous throughout the country, this double-drop waterfall has an upper tier of some 10m and a spectacular lower tier with a thundering 25m drop. Getting here involves a 33km, one-hour journey east of Sen Monorom on a mostly sealed road.
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Wat Hanchey
This hilltop pagoda was an important centre of worship during the Chenla (pre-Angkorian) period, when, as today, it offered some of the best Mekong views in Cambodia. The foundations of several 8th-century structures, some of them destroyed by American bombs, are scattered around the compound, along with a clutch of bizarre fruit and animal statues. It's 20km north of Kompong Cham; the smooth trip out here takes about 30 minutes on a motorbike.
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Virachey National Park
This park is one of the largest protected areas in Cambodia, stretching for 3325 sq km east to Vietnam, north to Laos and west to Stung Treng Province. Virachey has one of the more organised ecotourism programs in Cambodia, focusing on small-scale culture, nature and adventure trekking. The program aims to involve and benefit local minority communities. All treks into the park must be arranged through the Virachey National Park Eco-Tourism Information Centre in Ban Lung.
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Wat Maha Leap
More than a century old, sacred Wat Maha Leap is one of the last wooden pagodas left in Cambodia. Located south of town, the beautiful pagoda was only spared devastation by the Khmer Rouge because they converted it into a hospital. The wide black columns supporting the structure are complete tree trunks, resplendent in gilded patterns. The Khmer Rouge painted over the designs to match their austere philosophies, but monks later stripped the temple back to its original glory.
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Koh Paen
This serene island in the Mekong River just south of town offers a slice of rural local life, with fruit and vegetable farms and traditional wooden houses. During the dry season, several sandbars – the closest thing to a beach in this part of Cambodia – appear around the island. Bicycles can be hired from some local guesthouses to explore under your own steam.
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Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre
This rundown (but well-meaning) wildlife conservation centre lies within the temple grounds of Wat Sorsor Moi Roi in Sambor, about 35km north of Kratie. Established by Conservation International (www.conservation.org), it is home to the rare Cantor’s giant softshell turtle, which was only rediscovered along this stretch of the Mekong in 2007. One of the largest freshwater turtles, it can grow to nearly 2m in length. Hatchlings are nurtured here for 10 months before being released in the wild.
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Wat Sorsor Moi Roi
Wat Sorsor Moi Roi, held up by 108 columns and covered in vibrant murals, was constructed on the site of a 19th-century wooden temple, a few pillars of which are still located at the back of the compound. The Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre is located within the temple grounds, 35km north of Kratie in the village of Sambor.