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No matter the moniker — Crop Over, Spicemas, Junkanoo or just plain carnival — the annual celebration that combines history, music and costumes is a tradition that unites the Caribbean

But for newcomers, selecting where to go is a daunting task. Where should you go for your first carnival experience?

Well, allow me to make the case on why St Thomas in the US Virgin Islands should be your first carnival. 

A woman poses in her carnival costume during St Thomas Carnival.
St Thomas Carnival.

When is St Thomas Carnival? 

Though the celebration of St Thomas Carnival begins months in advance with musical and cultural events around the island, the final pulse of activity leading up to the big parade on carnival Saturday happens the last week of April into the beginning of May. 

During this time, there are countless parties, J’ouvert — a sunrise affair that could leave you covered in paint —  song competitions (Calypso Monarch), a children’s parade, boat races and fireworks.  

Expect bigger crowds (though not overwhelming) everywhere you go, with hotel and flight prices (though you should have booked months in advance) at their peak. 

Reggae artist Shabba Ranks performs at Village Night at St Thomas Carnival.
Reggae artist Shabba Ranks performs at Village Night at St Thomas Carnival. Alicia Johnson/Lonely Planet

What makes St Thomas Carnival great for first-timers? 

St Thomas Carnival planners make it incredibly easy for you to find the best party in town. Village Nights are a free event held in downtown Charlotte Amalie in the Fort Christian Parking Lot. 

The event runs over six nights (7pm -1am) and features some of the biggest musical artists in the Caribbean. For the 2025 season, the lineup included: Kes The Band, Pumpa, Shabba Ranks, Beanie Man, Skinny Fabulous, Pressure Busspipe and Triple Kay International. 

The crowd is filled with locals and people from all over the Caribbean. Some are in town for carnival, others are just out for a good time.

The number of people near the stage ebbs and flows with interest in the musical act performing. The weather this time of year makes for a pleasant, not too warm, evening. But always bring a fan just in case.  

And if having front-row access to these nightly concerts aren’t enough. The entire area is flanked by local vendors selling everything from fried chicken to cocktails that pack a punch to beautifully crafted sandals or fun USVI souvenirs. Make sure to bring cash. 

Towards the back of the open-air venue is a small amusement park for children equipped with two mini Ferris Wheels, and a host of other popular rides.   

How much time should I spend in St Thomas? 

Ideally a week, perhaps starting from the day Village Nights kick off. There are a host of activities going on throughout the island so the more time you can spend enjoying the culture the better. If you can swing it, staying one more day after Saturday’s parade is good for the joints.  

But if you just want to come to wear your pretty costume and dance on the road, then you can land on Friday, jump up on Saturday and leave on Sunday. 

Remember this is a major event and can’t be planned last minute. Even if you’re willing to pay exorbitant prices to make it happen, there may be no accommodation options. 

Is it easy to get in and around St Thomas? 

Getting to St Thomas is quite easy (particularly from the US). The Cyril E. King Airport boasts a host of non-stop flights from US cities like New York City, Dallas, Miami, Charlotte and Houston. Though it’s not a direct flight, there are multiple flights coming out of Heathrow. 

Getting around St Thomas isn’t too hard either. There are taxis, and open-air buses that resemble a large safari vehicle. The only con is they don’t run at night. Even through carnival season, I had no big problem getting a taxi. 

Top things to do in St Thomas 

Visit neighboring islands of St Croix and St John 

For a quick reprieve from all the revelry, it’s just a 20-minute ferry to St John and a two-hour ferry ride to St Croix

St John has the Virgin Islands National Park (which makes up 60 percent of the island), while St Croix has fantastic diving options like Cane Bay Wall.

Service is daily, but check the schedule; you can purchase tickets at the dock. 

A pair of women drape a pair of USVI flags over their backs during J'Ouvert in St Thomas.
A pair of women drape a pair of USVI flags over their backs during J'Ouvert in St Thomas. Alicia Johnson/Lonely Planet.

J’ouvert 

Every Caribbean Island has their own take on J’ouvert, but there’s two major connectors — early rising and getting messy. In St Thomas, the ingredient of choice is paint. The more the better, the goal is to look like a kaleidoscope by the end of it. 

The best way to ensure that outcome is to attend the Soka Elements party. The ticketed all-inclusive typically runs between USD$80-$100 and begins at 1am. The vibe is electric, with music and dancing and revelry that can only happen when the idea of staying clean is no longer an option.

But the party is just the beginning, afterwards (no sleep) head to Waterfront and join the throng of people trailing huge trucks outfitted with large speakers and blasting soca music. There’s more paint on the road and even more people looking to get messy.        

Jetskiing 

There’s a time for relaxing and letting the calm waves lap at your feet and there’s a time for high-speed fun out on the water. Jetskiing in Linberg Bay (next to the airport) is the perfect boost of adrenaline when island life gets a little too quiet.

There’s a small tent near the beach. Jetski rental is around USD$80 for a half hour on the water. You can go alone or have one of the workers ride along with you. 

Destination Editor Alicia Johnson poses with her carnival costume in St Thomas, USVI
Destination Editor Alicia Johnson who traveled to the annual carnival in St Thomas and joined Carnival Saturday in full costume. Alicia Johnson/Lonely Planet

My favorite thing to do in St Thomas 

Carnival Saturday is the grand finale to months of celebration. It’s the day where you put on pretty costumes, get your makeup done and gear up for a day on the road filled with singing, dancing and sipping spirits. 

Rain is always a possibility; it’s the Caribbean. I’ve experienced rainy carnivals in the past, but it was always a passing shower.  

Well, this time, in St Thomas. The shower stayed put. 

The first few drops, immediately after exiting the van, didn’t cause alarm. A little sprinkle on carnival day is good luck. 

The first few drops were just a precursor to a day filled with torrential downpours. The makeup that was painstakingly applied was gone in a matter of minutes. The feathers of my costume were limp and my costume was drenched in water. 

It was the best. 

The party didn't stop even though there were moments where I couldn’t see because it was raining so hard, the joy continued and I had the time of my life.

This is why I love the Caribbean, especially during carnival season. 

How much money do I need for St Thomas? 

As a US territory, the USD is the currency of the land. For Americans, that means you can operate as you would back at home, including using your phone with no international charges. 

  • Night at Westin: from $600-850

  • VITRAN (bus): $1

  • Cup of tea at Westin: $6

  • Lunch at Mi Casita: $50

  • Drink at Indigo 4: $16

  • Dinner for two at Cutlass & Cane: $150

  • Price of carnival costume: $800-2000

Something to remember

Bring your passport

Visitors with American passports won't need to present them upon arrival in St Thomas, but may be requested to present a passport when using a kiosk to check into a  departing flight. American Real IDs will also be accepted. 

Alicia Johnson travelled to St Thomas with support from the USVI Department of Tourism.  Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.