Lonely Planet guide to San Antonio, Texas

It’s easy to fall for San Antonio. One of Texas’ oldest cities is also among its most captivating. 

Catch one of the many festivals throughout the year and you’ll see twirling dancers, hear brassy rhythms and taste spicy dishes that celebrate the city’s diverse roots – reaching to Spain, Mexico and West Africa. Brilliantly colorful parades roll through the streets and on boats along the river, the most beloved natural feature of San Antonio's landscape. Even when there’s nothing afoot, there’s an infectious pride in the city: for its vibrant markets and museums, the serene gardens and green spaces, and its collection of 18th-century missions, which make up Texas’ only UNESCO World Heritage Site.

San Antonio’s backyard is the Hill Country, a vast expanse of oak trees, spring-fed creeks and, of course, hills, which stretch above the surrounding plains and valleys. The rugged natural beauty and abundance of activities are big reasons why San Antonians couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. Where else can you tube down scenic rivers, clamber through caverns, go horseback riding at dude ranches and visit wineries tucked along wildflower-lined roads, followed by dancing to live music at riverside shacks – all within an hour’s drive of the big city?

When should I go to San Antonio?

Spring and fall (late March to May and September to early November) are the best times of year to visit Texas. Springtime brings Hill Country wildflowers, festivals and ample opportunities for outdoor recreation in pleasant temperatures. Fall is the season of football and the state fair, and it's generally still warm enough to enjoy most outdoor activities.

The summer months of June to August can be sweltering. Kids are out of school, so attractions are at their busiest, and temperatures are stiflingly hot outside (fortunately everywhere inside has AC). But it is prime time to kick back at the beach or float a river.

Winter weather in Texas can be balmy or downright frigid, although South Texas rarely freezes. 

The city of San Antonio has a full calendar of festivals and events; you’re bound to run into at least one. For a complete list, check with the visitors center downtown. Advance tickets for many of the biggest events are sold through Ticketmaster. 

In December, check the schedule for the Alamo Bowl, the college football championship between the Pac-12 and Big 12 conferences, drawing up to 65,000 spectators to the Alamodome. The San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo attracts big-name country-music stars like Brad Paisley, Keith Urban and Willie Nelson, who perform after each night's rodeo in February. In April, Fiesta San Antonio is an 11-day celebration of the city's heritage and culture that dates back to 1891, when local women paraded in front of the Alamo and threw flowers at each other to honor the heroes of the battle. And in summer, the Fiesta Noche del Rio brings Latin music to the Arneson River Theater in a series of concerts and dance performances.

How much time should I spend in San Antonio? 

You could spend weeks exploring this city and the nearby region and still not see it all. If you have only a few days, visit iconic sites like the Alamo and the River Walk before heading out on a road trip to experience the wild beauty of the Hill Country.

On the first day, start with breakfast at the ultrafestive Mi Tierra, then explore Historic Market Square, with its mariachi bands and Mexican craft stores. For more shopping and creative dining, head to Pearl, a redeveloped brewery that's now the site of boutiques, cafes and restaurants.

Afterward, stroll along the lovely River Walk and get your fill of either art, history or an outdoor activity, or wander through Texas’ most visited monument, the Alamo. 

In the evening, book an outdoor table at Boudro’s for a memorable alfresco meal. After dark, catch the free sound-and-light show that illuminates San Antonio's story on the San Fernando Cathedral before finding some live music.

On days two and three, you'll have time to see more of San Antonio's main attractions, then cycle to the Spanish missions or venture into the Hill Country. Nature lovers should head to Guadalupe River State Park for a scenic hike followed by a refreshing swim in the river.

Is it easy to get in and around San Antonio?

It is! San Antonio International Airport is 8 miles (13km) north of downtown, just north of the intersection of Loop 410 and US 281. Frequent flights connect it with destinations in Texas, the rest of the USA and Mexico. 

You can go to the airport and get around San Antonio by taxi, public transportation, shuttles and rideshares like Uber, Lyft and GetMe.

Squeezed between Sunset Station and the Alamodome, the Amtrak station is served by the Sunset Limited and Texas Eagle train services. Taking the train is a pleasant alternative to driving, assuming you can approach the journey itself as part of the pleasure.

San Antonio is becoming more bike friendly, but cycling between downtown attractions on busy urban streets is not the most relaxing experience. Once you get out of downtown, however, you can ride a bike on long stretches of the River Walk. Beyond Lexington Ave, follow the River Walk north to the Pearl complex and the Brackenridge Park area.

Numerous B-Cycle bike-share stations are scattered across downtown and beside most major tourist attractions. Consider using any of five routes between top sights. 

If you're in San Antonio with a car, you'll definitely want to ditch it when exploring downtown, but street parking is hard to find. There are plenty of public parking lots, including at most of the major hotels; they generally charge around $3 per hour, or $5 to $10 for 24 hours. 

Top things to do in San Antonio

See the river by foot, bike or kayak

The 15-mile (24km) River Walk is an essential part of the San Antonio experience. Wandering this charming network of canals and pedestrian walkways, set just below the downtown streets, you pass landscaped gardens and riverfront cafes. Linger on the stone footbridges that arch gracefully across the water.

The river makes a loop around one section of downtown, and this is the most commercial part of the River Walk. Here you’ll find numerous restaurants and bars overlooking the water. It’s lively both day and night, with twinkling lights in the trees and music spilling out onto open terraces.

Go Rio operates a fleet of eco-friendly electric boats for its narrated cruises that touch on San Antonio’s history and culture. Boats depart from three locations, including a dock below Commerce St near the shops at Rivercenter. 

You can also rent kayaks from Texas River Company, which launches from Roosevelt Park, about 2 miles (3km) south of downtown. And the southern River Walk is great for cycling. You can rent bicycles from Blue Star Bike Shop and ride to the missions.

Admire art at the McNay Art Museum 

In a Spanish revival-style mansion 5 miles (8km) north of downtown, this art museum displays Marion Koogler McNay's spectacular collection of European and American art, which she left to the city after her death in 1950. Wandering from room to room, you encounter treasure after treasure, with Picasso’s Woman with a Plumed Hat and Van Gogh’s Women Crossing the Fields standing out amid works by Matisse, Cézanne, Munch and Rodin.

Taste the best Tex-Mex (and more) in San Antonio

A location beside the River Walk gives any restaurant instant atmosphere, especially when there's a patio involved, but prices are typically higher. Pearl gravitates toward high-end and midrange restaurants, while the hip hangouts of Southtown tend to be inexpensive, and tons of budget dining options lie north of downtown around Brackenridge Park.

Naturally, some of the best cooking in San Antonio is Tex-Mex and Mexican. Check out Pinkerton’s Barbecue, where you can sit at picnic tables overlooking a small park. Boudro’s is the spot for blue crab tostadas and prickly pear margaritas. In Historic Market Square, Mi Tierra is a San Antonio landmark that opened in 1941; while Biga has a welcoming outdoor patio on the River Walk and an acclaimed menu of New American cuisine. 

See San Antonio's Spanish colonial architecture

The San Antonio missions were constructed in the early 18th century to provide way stations and staging areas for Spanish colonial expansion to the north. The native Coahuiltecans, already under pressure from other nomadic Native American tribes pushing down from the north, showed a willingness to convert to Christianity and labored for the colonial Spanish priests in exchange for food and protection at the missions. 

Spain's missionary presence can best be felt at the ruins of the four missions south of town, all overseen by the National Park Service as part of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park (you'll find helpful trip-planning information on the park website). The main visitors center is at Mission San José. Known in its time as the Queen of the Missions, San José is certainly the largest and arguably the most beautiful of all the sites on the Mission Trail.

If time allows, also visit the Spanish Governor’s Palace, a low-profile adobe structure built in 1722. It was the home and office of the captain of the local presidio and is the last remnant in Texas of an aristocratic 18th-century Spanish townhouse. Now restored to something close to its original appearance, the building is outfitted with period furnishings and still has the original patio and courtyard. 

Learn some more history at the Alamo

For proud Texans, the much-fabled Alamo (entered freely off San Antonio’s central plaza) is not so much a tourist attraction as a place of pilgrimage. Built as a mission church from 1755 onward, the main building is now known as the Shrine. Beyond that, exhibition areas tell substantially the same story – not that historians entirely agree on the details – in different ways.

Living-history actors perform in the Cavalry Courtyard, while there’s a more traditional museum in the Long Barrack, originally a residence for Spanish priests and later a hospital for Mexican and Texan troops. 

Behind the church is the Alamo Exhibit, which opened in 2023. For the cost of admission, you can investigate various artifacts, including weaponry and handwritten letters from Alamo defenders. One room has a massive diorama of the 1830s Alamo site, with British singer, and supporter, Phil Collins narrating the events that transpired on the day of the battle.

Explore San Antonio’s Little Mexico

About half a mile (1km) west of the River Walk, Historic Market Square is a little piece of Mexico in downtown San Antonio. It's a fair approximation of a trip south of the border, with Mexican food, mariachi bands and more than 100 locally owned shops filled with Mexican art, handmade goods and clothes. A big chunk of the square is taken up by El Mercado, the largest Mexican marketplace outside of Mexico.

Marvel at a cinematic cathedral

A few blocks west of the river, San Fernando Cathedral is one of the oldest churches in Texas, founded in 1731. Its prime interest for modern visitors is as the screen – literally – for San Antonio: The Saga. This free, 24-minute sound-and-light show tells the story of the city with dazzling colorful effects; it's projected onto the facade at 9pm and 9:30pm Tuesdays through Sundays.

Take in the view from the Tower of the Americas

San Antonio’s 750ft (228m) Tower of the Americas is a skyline-defining landmark left over from the 1968 World’s Fair. From the observation deck you’ll have sweeping views over the city and the countryside beyond. Admission also includes the kid-centric 4D Theater Ride with special effects. You can reserve a table with equally stunning views at the Chart House.

Unwind at Brackenridge Park and the Witte Museum

North of downtown near Trinity University, the 349-acre (141-hectare) Brackenridge Park is a great place to spend a family day. As well as the San Antonio Zoo, you'll find the Kiddie Park, the San Antonio Zoo Eagle miniature train, an old-fashioned carousel and the Japanese Tea Garden in what was a quarry. Meant to be enjoyed year-round, the garden is especially pretty in spring, when the flowers are in bloom.

On the eastern edge of Brackenridge Park, the Witte Museum is an engaging museum of natural history, science and Texas history. Pronounced “witty,” it’s targeted at school-age kids, with hands-on exhibitions covering topics like dinosaurs, the peoples of the Pecos and regional wildlife. A model of the winged Quetzalcoatlus, the largest flying creature ever to exist, hangs above the foyer.

Take the kids for a ride at Six Flags Fiesta Texas

OK, you don't have to be a kid to enjoy Fiesta Texas, as it is commonly called. This popular theme park has its share of rides that you must be “this tall” to enjoy. Of course, there are also more than 25 kids' rides, as well as swimming pools and water rides over in the White Water Bay area (open May to mid-September). The setting – against a limestone quarry that looks similar to the Arizona desert – is dramatic, and there's lots of music and other live performances. 

Make the most of San Antonio’s nighlife

Although the live music scene isn't as jumping as it is in Austin, there's still plenty of entertainment in San Antonio. Check the San Antonio Current or the calendar section of the San Antonio Express-News for upcoming concerts. Both publications have comprehensive listings of art exhibitions and openings, touring shows, theater, classical music and cinema.

While downtown is packed with watering holes, Southtown's nightlife abounds with more interesting, creative choices. Most bars are open until 2am, while a few clubs stay hoppin' until 3am. Also check local papers for schedules and drop-in classes for tango, salsa, folk and country two-stepping.

How much money do I need for San Antonio?

Credit cards are widely accepted and are required for most hotel reservations and car rentals. It’s always a good idea to carry cash for tips, in case your card gets blocked or for stores that don't accept cards. ATMs are widely available at grocery stores, malls and gas stations in San Antonio.

There are plenty of free things to do in San Antonio if you’re trying to stretch your budget, but you really should never skimp on tipping. American service workers make minimum wage and rely on tips. Leave at least $1 per drink in a bar and 20% in restaurants. Add 10% to 15% to cab fares. Even if you aren't having table service, like at a food truck or with a takeout order, there's often a tip option.

• Coffee: $5

• Topo Chico mineral water: $3

• Happy hour cocktail: $6–10

• Taco from a food truck: $2–5

• Tex-Mex dinner combo: $15

• Barbecue meal at a restaurant: from $30

• Museum admission: $10–15 

• Night in a double room at a B&B: $100–250

• Night in a luxury hotel room: $300–600

• Car rental per day: $30–100

• Fuel per gallon: $2.50 (varies depending on the global market)

• Bus fare: $1.30 (per ride) or $2.75 (for an unlimited 24-hour pass)

What to pack for a visit to San Antonio

San Antonio experiences hot and humid summers so wear light, breathable clothing and a hat. Avoid wearing black, and skip the silks and polyester fabrics in favor of cotton or linen. Texans have a pretty casual attitude, and you'll rarely feel uncomfortable because of what you're wearing.

Bring dressier attire (smart casual) for dinner at nice restaurants, going to upscale bars or clubs, or visiting a church during services. Cowboy culture is still alive and well, and most Texans own at least one pair of cowboy boots, which are required footwear in dance halls!

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Texas guidebook published in August 2025.