Lonely Planet’s guide to exploring the Greek islands responsibly

In 1993, I took six magical weeks off work to explore my ancestral Greece for the first time, including several of its glorious islands. For years, my family would bid kalo taxidi (bon voyage) to relatives and friends flying from Melbourne Airport to the homeland. I always wondered when it would be my turn. 

Arriving via yellow cab at gritty Piraeus port at a bleary-eyed hour of the morning, before the sun had risen, to board a ferry for the Cyclades, I could barely contain my excitement. Funnels atop the towering vessels issued plumes of smoke into the cool air. Digital displays flickered island destination names in red on the stern as ferry staff yelled instructions at drivers rolling their way onboard. 

Around 8 hours later, our ferry entered the waters of the Aegean above Santorini’s sunken volcano, which erupted around 1500 BCE and created the partly submerged caldera that  established the island as Greece’s biggest brand name. Dramatic cliffs came into view, sunlight illuminating them in all their ochre, rust-red and taupe splendor. Huddled at the top were Fira’s characteristic white-washed cubist homes. 

Bags dropped at simple lodgings, we headed out for tall glasses of frappe at a cafe. Peering down at the calm cobalt sea from the caldera rim, lined by cave houses converted into hotels, restaurants and cafes, the views seemed surreal. Like so many visitors before and after me, I marveled at how the people of Santorini could inhabit such an intimidating yet beautiful landscape. 

While Santorini was already a well-developed travel destination by 1993, visitor numbers paled in comparison to the 3.4 million who now arrive annually on the island, whose population is around 25,000. Five-star hotels were a rarity, caldera-facing restaurants didn’t necessarily require a reservation and boat tour operators were fewer in number. 

Santorini remains as beautiful as ever. Today, however, it presents a rather different picture. Between May and October, cruise passengers on guided tours cram the streets of Oia and Fira. Every evening, especially during the high season period of June to September, crowds swarm around Oia’s Venetian castle. Selfie sticks at the ready, they jostle for position to capture the island’s famed sunset. Couples flock to Santorini to celebrate their honeymoon. But sharing this experience with hundreds of sweaty tourists desperate for the perfect Instagram shot is hardly romantic. 

What does overtourism mean for the Greek islands today? 

As Greece’s tourism fortunes soared in 2019 and reached new record levels post-pandemic, Santorini and Mykonos began to make headlines for the wrong reasons. Greece’s two most popular island destinations were branded as too busy and overpriced. Some travelers complained about expensive accommodation, overbooked restaurants and narrow alleyways jammed with people.  

Then, in early 2025, Santorini experienced a swarm of earthquakes that unnerved some would-be visitors. While no injuries or damages were reported, sensationalist social media posts were blamed for a slowdown in bookings. Local authorities launched a campaign focused on the island’s authenticity, highlighting experiences that most visitors miss. Still, visitor numbers between January and July 2025 dropped 14.5 per cent, or 348,000 visitors, compared to the same period a year earlier.

Santorini and Mykonos may face the most blame for the excesses of overtourism that negatively impact their reputations. However, these are not the only Greek islands where the delicate balance between relying on tourism to fuel the local economy and ensuring the destination retains the elements that attracted visitors in the first place has been upset. 

As a result of pressure from high visitor numbers, inhabitants of numerous islands, including this flagship pair, face problems that affect their day-to-day lives. Paros, now the third most-visited island in the Cyclades, is facing a decline in its water reserves due to unrestrained use. For centuries, locals honed rainwater harvesting systems, cultivated indigenous crops that require little to no irrigation and were frugal in their use of water. 

Today, this island of 14,520 permanent residents sees its population swell significantly in the summer months, when it receives some 500,000 visitors. In recent years, Paros has evolved into an upscale destination, with the opening of luxury hotels and villas, earning it the moniker “the new Mykonos.” Replete with multiple pools and sizeable gardens, these accommodations draw on limited water resources. Municipal authorities struggle to keep up with demand during the summer months. Climate change has exacerbated the problem.

At the same time, rapid tourism growth has led to waste-management challenges for local authorities on the islands, particularly during peak tourist seasons. In 2024, the Corfu municipality spent €11 million on shipping waste to the mainland cities of Ioannina and Kozani. It’s hoped that the planned creation of an integrated waste management unit will help resolve this problem. 

Echoing a dilemma seen in other tourism hotspots, like Barcelona, Greece’s islands face a housing shortage due to the proliferation of short-term rentals. Property prices and the cost of rentals have shot up, particularly in the Cyclades and Ionian. Long-term rentals are harder to come by for locals, students, teachers and seasonal employees. In September 2025, Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis revealed the prospect of extending a temporary ban on new short-term rental listings to other parts of the country, beyond central Athens.

Another issue affecting popular Greek islands is road congestion. Crete is the country’s largest island, but much of its road network was not built with burgeoning visitor numbers in mind. In summer, tourist coaches, rental cars and daytrippers frequently jam the narrow streets of towns like Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno, while parking close to Insta-famous beaches like Elafonisi can be problematic. 

What locals have to say 

Lefteris Zorzos is an archeologist with Santorini roots and the co-owner of the small boutique hotel Voreina Gallery Suites in the lesser-known village of Pyrgos. He says the island is working to improve visitor experiences and infrastructure while managing the rising number of tourists. “There is a growing sense that there has to be an improvement of island infrastructure to be able to accommodate a huge amount of visitors,” he says.

While most travelers tend to swoop in and out of Santorini, Zorzos says he has noticed a rise in the number of visitors staying longer on the island. 

“Santorini is a bucket list destination where you tick off that you've been there, you've taken the pictures, and you're there for two days. But I really don't think that you could even scrape the surface of what you can see and do in less than three days.”

Tips on how to visit the Greek islands more responsibly 

Visit outside peak season

Until a decade ago, only a handful of hotels opened in Santorini during the winter, Zorzos points out. Now, with more flights to the island and businesses open, including hotels and restaurants, and very few tourists, it’s an attractive time of year to visit. 

July and August are typically the busiest months on the islands. However, climate change has led to an increase in the frequency of heatwaves and a rise in average summer temperatures overall. As a result, many travelers are choosing to visit in cooler months, such as May, September and October. With children in school during those months, fewer families are holidaying then. Flight fares and hotel rates are lower and beaches are quieter. 

But extreme heat is not merely an annoyance. It can be fatal, so don’t underestimate its effects. Heatwaves are now happening as early as the start of June. Six tourists died during back-to-back heatwaves in June 2024. Most had gone for a hike on their own and are believed to have become disoriented in the heat. If hiking is your thing, schedule your island visit for spring or late autumn. 

Explore beyond the obvious attractions

Zorzos notes that Santorini hosts some of the most important ancient sites in the Mediterranean, such as the Akrotiri settlement, preserved Pompeii-style 3,600 years ago when it was destroyed by a volcanic eruption, and Ancient Thera. He suggests visiting Akrotiri in the afternoon or the colorful town of Oia very early in the morning when fewer people are circulating. 

“Santorini is such a small island, but it's one of the few places where we have dozens of essentially private small museums,” he notes. “These include the prehistoric museum, the Archaeological Museum and smaller museums like the recently renovated Maritime Museum and the Tomato Industrial Museum.”

Zorzos also recommends taking a day trip to the small, neighboring island of Thirassia and venturing to inland Venetian villages like Pyrgos, Emporio and Megalochori. Santorini’s southern reaches, between Akrotiri and the Akrotiri Lighthouse, but also the lunar-like landscape of Vlychada beach.

Seek out lesser-visited destinations

The islands of the South Aegean are close to one another, but each one is very different. “This is one of the reasons that makes the region so unique,” says Zorzos. “Essentially, they're completely different in terms of what they offer visitors, and this is the case throughout the year, as well.” 

Syros, for instance, is an attractive option, especially for families and those seeking old-school Greek island vibes, which are increasingly hard to find these days. By day, culture vultures can pore over stately 19th-century neoclassical buildings designed by Ernst Ziller. In August, the Apollon Theater, a mini La Scala built in 1864, hosts the International Classical Music Festival- Syrreo. 

Another destination to consider is Karpathos. There, Evangelia Agapiou, founder of Ecotourism Karpathos and an expert mountain guide, has been offering immersive, sustainable experiences since 2016. Her team leads hiking tours along trails to secluded coves, arranges cooking classes with local cooks and reveals the centuries-old traditions of far-flung Olympos village. And if you’re a birdwatcher, Ecotourism Karpathos hosts an overnight stay in the protected area of Tristomo, where you can observe migratory birds and learn why the island plays a key role in avian conservation.

In the northeastern Aegean, life on islands such as Lesvos, Limnos and Ikaria is lived at a slow pace. Overall, this island group is much less dependent on tourism, compared to islands such as Mykonos, Crete and Rhodes. Therefore, there are fewer visitors and the likelihood of forging genuine connections with locals is greater. In Limnos, take the kids on a fishing trip aboard a traditional caique or modern boat. Myrina-based Lemnos Fishing Trips teaches the ins and outs of angling aboard their trusty vessel Paris.

In Ikaria, best known for being a longevity-focused Blue Zone island, join locals and city-dwelling Greeks who gather for a whirlwind of panigyria dotted throughout the summer calendar. At these spirited village festivals, everyone is welcome to eat, drink and be merry. If you can last that long, dancing often continues through the wee hours. 

Tap local experts for insider tips

Do your research and seek out locally owned operators, from hotels and restaurants to walking tours. Unfortunately, there are plenty of Greek businesses trying to jump on the TikTok bandwagon, hoping to go viral with oversize burgers or croissants. Instead of fueling these trends, seek out the traditional tavernas and chef-owned upscale restaurants found throughout the islands. Some of the very best have no sea views, but the quality frequently surpasses the showy spots that rely on location to draw customers. 

Local companies can also offer unparalleled insider expertise that can make or break your vacation. Yacht charter companies, such as Istion, have seen a post-pandemic boom, attracting many first-time customers, including families. Chartering a sailing yacht is one of the most enthralling ways to explore the country’s 2,000-plus islands, around 250 of which are inhabited. Catamarans, in particular, have broadened the appeal of yachting across age groups and experience levels. But ports, marinas and anchorages do get busy in the peak summer months. 

Vassilis Kontos, business development manager at Istion, suggests strategic itinerary planning to avoid crowds, even in peak season. Say, for example, you’re chartering a yacht to sail the Saronic Gulf Islands. “When you start from Athens, your first stop is either Aegina or Poros. Seventy-five per cent of charterers will moor at one of the two islands on their first day. This creates traffic,” says Kontos. “A way to avoid that would be to follow a reverse itinerary. Sail an extended leg at the start of your charter, arriving at the destination you would normally reach on the second or third day. That way, you have everybody behind you. You sacrifice additional hours and comfort making this passage so you can enjoy the remainder of the charter.”

Keep showers short and sweet

Islands face many environmental challenges, including loss of biodiversity, uncontrolled development in vulnerable areas, waste mismanagement and pollution. One of the most crucial concerns is water management. Multiple Greek islands grapple with water shortages during the peak summer months due to prolonged high temperatures and low rainfall. 

Some islands, particularly in the Cyclades, don’t have sufficient underground water resources. Some rely on water being ferried in from Athens or through undersea pipes. Desalination plants have been installed on dozens of islands; however, critics say they’re costly to operate and far from energy-efficient. 

In recent years, climate change and tourism development have exacerbated the severity of the problem, University of the Aegean environmental engineering professor Nasos Stasinakis told Greek news outlet Lifo. He said 2024 was Greece’s hottest year since 1991 and one of the driest in three decades. The country recorded 36 million international arrivals, compared to 28 million in 2022, putting pressure on limited island water resources. Islands such as Sifnos, Spetses, and Leros were among those where a state of emergency was declared due to water scarcity during the height of summer. In 2025, even verdant Lesvos faced difficulties meeting water use needs.

Konstantinos Revinthis, the mayor of Serifos, a small Cycladic island that has seen an uptick in visitors along with hotel and villa development in the last few years, has expressed his concern about water capacity during summer. “We need to inform our visitors who pay between €100 and €300 per night, because the damage will be greater if they suddenly discover that they can’t take a shower,” he told Greek media. 

Therefore, as a responsible traveler, be smart about water use, just as you would at home. Take short showers, run the washing machine in your short-term rental accommodation only when you have a full load, and avoid letting water run unnecessarily (such as when brushing teeth or shaving).

Switch off the AC

But it’s not just the water supply. The power grid on the islands is also often stretched to its limits in the summer months due to large numbers of visitors. Switch off the air-conditioning when you leave your room. Limiting your AC use is not only better for the environment as a whole, but on a local level, it also reduces the likelihood of blackouts. 

Safeguard local wildlife

Fragile ecosystems, including endangered wildlife and rare plant species, also face a series of perils, from invasive species such as the lionfish and blue crab to light pollution disorienting sea turtle hatchlings. 

If you’re visiting the Ionian island of Zakynthos, keep in mind that it hosts one of the largest loggerhead sea turtle breeding populations in the Mediterranean. Look for signs notifying of sites where this endangered species nests and lays eggs, such as the sandy beaches around Laganas Bay, part of which is a popular resort area. Watch where you walk and avoid visiting when hatchlings make their perilous journey to the sea. If you see one, keep your distance and avoid taking photos or videos with a flash, as the light can confuse them. And if you want to play a role in protecting this shy species, Archelon runs volunteer programs and offers internships and research opportunities. 

Mind your waste

Waste management is another major challenge facing the Greek islands. However, islands such as Tilos are setting a positive example. The tiny Dodecanese isle has adopted a circular economy mindset. In 2023, it earned zero-waste certification. In just two years, Tilos reduced its landfill disposal rate from 87% to zero. 

All waste is collected and reused to eliminate its environmental footprint. Residents and business owners sort waste into bins, which are collected from their doorstep. Recyclables are sorted and packed, while non-recyclables are sent for waste-to-energy conversion. Organic waste is converted to fertiliser. If you visit Tilos, you’ll receive instructions on how to sort your waste.

Elsewhere, make sure you do your part by minimizing consumption of single-use plastics, taking your rubbish with you, and inquiring about local recycling practices.