
The White Tower in Thessaloniki, Greece's second-largest city. vasilhs andronidhs/Shutterstock
It’s almost too easy to fall in love with Thessaloniki. Greece’s second-largest city is built along the water, and the view over the Aegean Sea to snow-capped Mt Olympus never gets old. This is a city where history is palpable in everything from the taste of cumin-flecked soutzoukakia (oblong meatballs) – a relic of the Ottoman Empire – to the mostly empty synagogues. (The city was home to the country’s largest Jewish population until WWII.) Old and new coexist in architectural anarchy: here the ruins of Byzantine churches casually give way to 1960s apartment blocks, and Ottoman-era hammams have been repurposed into cafes and flower shops.
But Thessaloniki isn’t stuck in the past. The city has undergone a creative renaissance, with new and exciting restaurants, art spaces, bars and shops. With a vibrant student population and a healthy appreciation for a good time, Thessaloniki might just be Greece’s coolest city. It was voted UNESCO’s first City of Gastronomy in Greece – and it certainly has some of the best food anywhere in the country.
From learning the city's history to stuffing yourself with pita, these are the best things to do in Thessaloniki.
1. Learn about Thessaloniki’s dark history at the White Tower
Thessaloniki’s most iconic image is the White Tower – and its creamy exterior hides a grisly past. It was erected by the Ottomans in the late 15th century (where it replaced a smaller Byzantine tower) and was once used as a prison and place of execution. At some point in the 19th century, a prisoner was granted freedom in exchange for whitewashing the tower, and a new identity was born. Today, you can visit the tower and see an art exhibit. A half hour is enough to visit both the tower and the exhibit; on your way out, indulge in a refreshment from one of the many street vendors hawking snacks outside.
2. Browse the antique markets
Thessalonikians are known for their love of shopping. Head to Tositsa Street, where you’ll find an amazing jumble of antique shops, selling everything from communist belt buckles to Ottoman-era tchotchkes. There are records, jewelry, furniture, books, military uniforms and much more. Don’t be surprised if you come across some Nazi paraphernalia, an unfortunate relic from Greece’s occupation by the Germans during WWII.
3. People-watch in Plateia Aristotelous
Thessaloniki’s heartbeat is undoubtedly Plateia Aristotelous (Aristotle Sq), a cross between a Parisian boulevard, Bologna’s covered arcades and Piazza San Marco, with an unmistakably Greek flair. The neoclassical pastel buildings that line the square were built by different architects, and there’s a constant flurry of people crossing through the marble plateia. Because it's the city’s artery, you’ll undoubtedly pass through here multiple times. It’s a nice place to have a coffee, or head to one of the rooftops for a panoramic view of the square and the sea. And don’t miss a chance to buy a fresh tsoureki from Terkenlis bakery.
4. Stock up at Kapani Market
Food lovers should make a beeline for the Kapani Market. Located in the city center, this is the place to score great deals on Greek products like mountain tea, mastic from Chios and pine-tree honey. In addition to non-perishables, you can stroll through the fresh fish and meat sections of the market.
Planning tip: Be sure to grab lunch at Stou Mitsou, a tsipouradkia selling delicious grilled and fried dishes between the market stalls.
5. Stroll along the waterfront
Walking the promenade along the Aegean Sea in Thessaloniki is practically a way of life. It even has its own word in Greek: volta. Start walking the Nea Paralia from the port, where a crop of new cafes and restaurants have opened up in this once seedy part of town. Head toward the White Tower, where you’ll pass by vendors selling roasted peanuts and popcorn, buskers playing guitars, serious joggers and kids shrieking with unbridled delight.
As you continue, the impressive statue of Alexander the Great will be on your left. The Umbrellas – created by Greek sculptor Giorgios Zongolopoulos in 1997 when Thessaloniki was the European Capital of Culture – is perfectly framed against the skyline on your right.
Planning tip: You can walk all the way to the Thessaloniki Concert Hall without once leaving the waterfront. It’s a particularly beautiful walk to do around sunset and covers 3.5km.
6. Attend the International Film Festival
Each year Thessaloniki hosts its International Film Festival, the most important in the country. Launched in 1960 as a national film festival, it has adapted to the times: in its earliest years, it focused on New Greek Cinema, and then, after the end of Greece’s military dictatorship, the festival promoted much more political cinema. These days, the focus is still on arthouse cinema, with an emphasis on voices from the Balkans. For 10 days each November, the city is awash in screenings, premieres, and lively talks and discussions. Cinephiles shouldn’t miss it.
7. Savor the local flavor
Thessaloniki has some of the best food in Greece, so we recommend doing some research and preparing to splurge to take advantage of the incredible culinary scene. These are some of our favorites.
If you want to try a little bit of everything, go to Deka Trapezia, a chic small-plates restaurant. For seafood, we recommend Mourga, one of the top restaurants with a focus on seafood and local ingredients. And for live music, Igglis serves traditional Greek taverna food with a side of rembetiko (blues music).
8. Enjoy the nightlife
The Port of Thessaloniki has gotten quite the makeover in recent years, and it has become one of the preferred hangout spots in town. Couples lounge on the wooden chairs and teenagers sit on the port’s edge, kicking their feet toward the water. Just up from the port is the Ladadika neighborhood, where former brick warehouses have been converted into tavernas, cafes and bars. The whole area particularly comes alive at night.
On the top floor of the design hostel Zeus is Loose, you’ll find the Nectar Distillery. Don’t be fooled by its location; this bar has some of the most breathtaking views in the city. Get friendly with locals, enjoy Thessaloniki’s magnificent sunsets and sway to the rhythms of guest DJs. The signature cocktails are not only delicious, but they also have cheeky names that honor mythical creatures of Greek mythology.
9. Try one of the city’s best gyros
In a city full of incredible food, the best pita gyros can be found at Giotis. Located in the shadow of Tuba stadium, this local favorite has remained unchanged for 33 years. The pork gyro is the ship's trademark; it is juicy and well-grilled, and it comes with the perfect spice blend. It’s also stuffed with sauces, fries, onions and tomatoes.









