The best time to visit Warsaw

Ever evolving Warsaw is one of the most vibrant cities in Eastern Europe. With communism well in its rearview mirror, the Polish capital continues to keep redefining its identity while also repurposing its past. Rather than simply tear down the gray communist blocks that defined much of the era, Warsaw now fills the old buildings of the state with trendy restaurants and shops. One need look no further than the Palace of Culture and Science, a former Stalin monument turned creative and societal hub, which during the summer becomes the best place to watch an open-air movie.

Yes, that was a heavy-handed hint. Summer is Warsaw’s high season. You will pay more for lodging (though the exchange rate favors dollars, pounds, and euros, so you will get more for your money), however, summer is Warsaw’s best season. The city opens up during the months of May through September in a way that far outshines other times of year, with a number of seasonal activities, festivals and outdoor experiences that make it the best time to visit.

In case of an unexpected heat wave, consider booking a hotel with a pool like Hotel Warszawa, a WWII stronghold turned five-star accommodation, or get a day pass for the pool at InterContinental Warszawa, where the spa area overlooks the Palace of Culture and Science. 

If you must avoid the crowds, consider visiting earlier in the season, before the start of summer school holidays.

Late spring and summer are best for festivals and outdoor activities

Weather in Warsaw in summer: With minimal rain and temperatures south of 27°C (80°F), summer is the perfect time to experience Warsaw.

For music lovers, it is easily the most fruitful time of year, with mainstream festival options like the Orange Warsaw Festival in late May or early June, an open-air jazz festival operating in Old Town Square every Saturday in July and August, and Chopin concerts every Sunday at noon and 4pm in Łazienki Park, at the composer's monument, from May through September.

It can’t be argued that there’s a bad time of year for food in Warsaw, but summer has the added benefit of the return of the city’s open-air markets. Night owls will enjoy the United Nations–worthy spread of cuisine at Nocny Market, which takes place Thursdays through Sundays from May to September on the platforms of the former Warszawa Główna Osobowa railway station. Likewise, Breakfast Market brings morning crowds together on Saturdays in the Żoliborz neighborhood and Sundays in the Mokotów area.

While Old Town is a highly touristed area, it is still a picturesque reminder of what Warsaw looked like before WWII (UNESCO recognizes it as a World Heritage Site), and during the summer, the list of things to see there grows beyond Instagram snaps. Take advantage of the good weather by climbing to the top of St. Anne’s Church for a panoramic view of Castle Square. In June, the annual Mermaid Parade, celebrating the city’s mystical guardian, ends its flamboyant route in Castle Square. And every Friday and Saturday at 9:30pm, starting in May until the end of September, Multimedia Fountain Park does a popular light show.

During the winter months, you’re not likely to get much out of the area around the river. But sitting by the Vistula River during the summer is practically a sport. The Vistulan Boulevards are the only place where it’s legal to drink in public, with floating bars offering libations, food and even concerts by the water (perennial favorite BarKa is located between Poniatowski Bridge and Czerniakowski Point). Beach bums will enjoy Poniatówka Beach, located in the shadow of the PGE Narodowy Stadium (the structure that looks like a woven basket on the Praga side of the river), and Rusałka Beach, known for its volleyball games and barbecues.

Winter is best for Christmas bliss and cozy vibes

Weather in Warsaw in winter: As the saying goes, “There's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes,” so make sure you bring the right attire for temperature swings from 2°C (36°F) to -4°C (25°F).

All this summer hype isn’t meant to downplay the joys of Warsaw during the winter months. For your bravery in the face of cold temps, you’ll be rewarded with significantly cheaper hotel prices and a city largely free of other tourists.

Christmas markets start appearing in late November, with the largest one stretching across Old Town in the Castle Square and Barbican area. In early December, the Palace of Culture and Science hosts a secondary Christmas market, which doubles as a dumpling festival.

The weather may be gray but the city is lit up during the winter by a series of illumination festivals. From December to mid-February, follow Castle Square down Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat – a walk known as the Royal Route – for kitschy retro Christmas lights, including an oversized Christmas tree. Stroll the Royal Garden of Light in Wilanów Park from November to late February. Or embrace your sense of wonder at the Magiczny Botaniczny display at the Warsaw University Library Garden from November to February.

Finally, while they are available all year, some of the heartier Polish dishes hit differently in the cold. Enjoy a plate of pierogi at the Wes Anderson–hued Syrena Irena. Eat an array of heavy pasta dishes out of jars at Pyzy, Flaki Gorące. Try traditional meat dishes (and modern twists on a theme) at Ed Red. And don’t forget to sip mulled wine at Pod Samsonem – like a lot of wintery life pleasures, once the weather gets warmer, you’ll have to wait a full year to enjoy it again.