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Trøndelag

Trøndelag, where Norway begins to narrow and head for the Arctic, may be small but it sure packs a lot in. Trondheim is the centrepiece, a beguiling city brimful of historic architecture, including Nidaros Cathedral, Scandinavia's largest medieval structure. But Trondheim's present is as appealing as its past, with buzzing student life and pretty waterfront restaurants and bars. Not far away to the northeast, and an easy detour from the Arctic Highway, atmospheric Stiklestad is famous as the site of the martyrdom of King Olav (St Olav) and lies at the heart of every Norwegian's sense of national identity. Elsewhere, Trøndelag is quintessential Norway, a region of rumpled hills, stippled with oxblood-coloured farmsteads and ruffled green with wheat and barley. Here, there's always water near at hand, whether sea, lake or incised fjord with fascinating coastal settlements worth lingering over.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Trøndelag.

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Nidaros Domkirke
Nidaros Cathedral is Scandinavia's largest medieval building, and the northernmost Gothic structure in Europe. Outside, the ornately embellished, altar-like west wall has top-to-bottom statues of biblical characters and Norwegian bishops and kings, sculpted in the early 20th century. Several are copies of medieval originals, nowadays housed in the adjacent museum. Note the glowing, vibrant colours of the modern stained glass in the rose window at the west end in striking contrast to the interior gloom. Photography not permitted.
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Rockheim
This terrific museum is devoted to pop and rock music, mainly Norwegian, from the 1950s until yesterday. It's a dockside temple to R&B, where a huge projecting roof featuring Norwegian record covers extends above an equally vast converted warehouse. Within, there's plenty of action and interaction (mix your own hip-hop tape, for example). Home of Rock is on the quayside, very near Pirbadet and the fast-ferry landing stage.
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Norveg
Architecturally exciting and resembling a sailing ship, Norveg recounts 10,000 years of coastal history through a variety of media, including an accompanying audio guide, available in English. It also runs a well-regarded gourmet restaurant.
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Stiklestad Church
The lovely Stiklestad Church was built in 1150–80 above the stone on which the dying St Olav reputedly leaned. The original stone was believed to have healing powers, but it was removed during the Reformation and hasn't been seen since.
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Sverresborg Trøndelag Folkemuseum
Three kilometres west of the centre, this folk museum is one of the best of its kind in Norway. The indoor exhibition, Livsbilder (Images of Life), displays artefacts in use over the last 150 years – from clothing to school supplies to ornate sleds. The rest of the museum is open-air, comprising more than 60 period buildings, many of which you can enter, adjoining the ruins of King Sverre's castle and giving fine views of the city.
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Archbishop's Palace
The 12th-century archbishop's residence (Erkebispegården), commissioned around 1160 and Scandinavia's oldest secular building, is beside the cathedral. In its west wing, you'll find Norway's shimmering crown jewels and its museum. After visiting the well-displayed statues, gargoyles and carvings from the cathedral, drop to the lower level with a selection of the myriad artefacts revealed during the museum's late-1990s construction.
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Stiklestad National Cultural Centre
This grandiose wooden structure includes Stiklestad 1030, an evocative exhibition about the Battle of Stiklestad, with dioramas and plenty of shrieks on the soundtrack; a 15-minute film on St Olav; a guided tour including a visit to the church; and a small WWII resistance museum. In the grounds there are over 30 historical buildings (admission free), from humble crofts and artisans workshops to the Molåna, a much grander farmhouse. In summer, actors in period costume bring the buildings to life.
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Gamle Bybro
There's been a bridge here since 1681, connecting the city with the Kristiansten Fort and guarded at each end by a watch-house (although only one now remains, currently occupied by a kindergarten). The present bridge dates from 1861, and it's a beauty – pedestrianised and clad in planks, it's the best place in town to get that essential shot of Trondheim's riverside warehouses. It's also the quickest way to get over to Bakklandet from the city centre.
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Ringve Music Museum
The Ringve Museum is Norway's national museum for music and musical instruments. The Russian-born owner was a devoted collector of rare and antique musical instruments, which students demonstrate. You can also browse the old barn with its rich collection of instruments from around the world. The botanic gardens, set within the surrounding 18th-century estate, are a quiet green setting for a stroll. Take bus 3 or 4 and walk up the hill.