Fiji

The 50-odd islands of the Mamanuca and Yasawa Groups are Fiji’s come-hither call to paradise-hunters from across the globe. Ringed by reef and surrounded by impossibly blue seas, the chains each have their claims to fame. The Mamanucas, a quick hop from Viti Levu, offer water sports galore, resorts for all budgets and unforgettable day trips taking in celebrity islands (Cast Away was shot at tiny Modriki) and further-flung islets considered sacred by locals. Up north, the Yasawas beckon with crystal-clear lagoons, handsome volcanic landscapes, remote villages and heavenly beaches.

With warm, clear waters, friendly fish and ravishing reefs, underwater Fiji lures divers and snorkellers of all skill levels. Billed as the 'soft-coral capital of the world', the archipelago is home to such attractions as Rainbow Reef – home to the famous White and Purple Walls – and the huge Great Astrolabe Reef. The Nasonisoni Passage drift dive is a thrill-seeker's delight. Snorkellers will find bliss around the Mamanucas, Yasawas and the southern end of Taveuni; for something different, snorkel the oyster lines at pearl farms on Vanua Levu and Taveuni.

Steamy Suva offers a multicultural mix of contemporary and colonial Fiji. Gracious old buildings and monuments line a lively waterfront and harbour. Downtown Suva boasts slick, air-conditioned shopping malls and crowded handicraft stalls, both of which are ripe for exploring. Immerse yourself in the colourful chaos of the municipal market, learn about Fiji’s wild history at the national museum, and sip cocktails at the beautiful old Grand Pacific Hotel before exploring Suva’s diverse restaurant scene.

Nestled in a valley high in the Nausori Highlands, stunning Navala village is the best place in Fiji to witness authentic, age-old indigenous life up close. It’s the country’s last bastion of traditional architecture: from the chief’s home to the outhouses, all of its 200 buildings are constructed using ancient techniques that make use of woven bamboo walls, thatched roofs and ropes made of fibre from the surrounding bush. Visitors are welcomed with a kava ceremony and stuffed full of locally caught, picked and harvested food cooked over an open fire.

A lone limestone island among the volcanic Yasawas, Sawa-i-Lau hides a mystery within its hollow caverns: carvings, paintings and inscriptions of unknown age and meaning. They’re accessible with a torch and a guide (and a shot of courage) by swimming through a short underwater passage from the cave’s main chamber. If your breath has already been taken away by the gorgeousness of the grotto, there's more placid paddling to be had in a clear pool beneath the cave's domed ceiling.

'Bula', Fiji’s ubiquitous greeting is more than a simple hi: it literally translates as ‘Life’, an apt salutation from a spirited people who seem to live theirs to the fullest. Fijians are genuinely friendly, and visitors are assured of a warm welcome – often with open arms and song. The best place to experience this hospitality is at one of the villages that dot the countryside: visits usually involve a kava ceremony, and possibly a meke (ceremonial dance) or lovo (feast from an underground oven), while homestays offer the chance to delve deep into local life.

Indentured labourers from India were first brought to Fiji in 1879, when they were shipped over to toil in British sugar cane and copra plantations. Their descendants, and the traditions that they brought with them, remain. For a taste of Indo-Fijian culture, head to any of the ubiquitous curry houses or visit one of the brightly painted Hindu temples on Viti Levu or Vanua Levu. To witness Hindu culture in full flight, time your visit with Diwali, Holi or Suva's gasp-inducing South Indian Fire-Walking Festival.

Lush, ridiculously green and humid, Fiji's 'Garden Island' of Taveuni is heaven for hikers, where even the shortest trails lead to rare endemic birdlife, gargantuan trees and bizarre rock formations. About 80% of the island is protected by the Bouma National Park, home to the Lavena Coastal Walk, which takes trekkers on a 5km journey past beautiful beaches and jungle villages and over a suspension bridge to hidden waterfalls. Serious sloggers can head up the steep Des Voeux Peak or to the muddy mountain crater of Lake Tagimaucia.

Though many come to Fiji to flop on beaches, the country also offers extreme adventures for those willing to get off their sun lounger. Adventurous, occasionally rough, sea voyages to the remote islands in the Lau and Moala Groups are just the beginning: once there, hardy travellers can blaze their own trail and discover pristine reefs, secluded swimming spots and lush interiors ripe for once-in-a-lifetime hikes. Those seeking ultimate isolation can make their way to Rotuma, 460km off Viti Levu, a tiny outpost with perfect beaches and laid-back locals.

Geology looms large in the spectacular Namosi Highlands. Sheer canyon walls crowd the Wainikoroiluva River, and the dramatic curtains of rock form the backdrop to Fiji’s most scenic river-rafting trip, taken aboard a bilibili (bamboo raft). The lower, longer, wider reaches of the palm-fringed waterway are usually covered in speedier style – in canoes with outboard motors – alongside villagers making their way to or from market on local boats laden with pigs, coconuts, taro and leafy green vegetables.

Fiji is one of the best places in the world to hang ten, with brilliant breaks and tremendous tubes that draws surfers from all over the world. Its most famous breaks are the colossal Cloudbreak and Restaurants, two mighty lefts that are most definitely not for the inexperienced. Dedicated surf resorts dot the archipelago, from the Mamanucas and Yanuca island by Viti Levu, to the further-flung Qamea (in the north) and Kadavu Group (to the south). Windsurfers also find plenty to whoop about: Nananu-i-Ra is exposed to consistent trade winds.

You don't have to venture far to see beautiful birds in Fiji: riotously coloured parrots parade through most hotel gardens, and Suva's accessible Colo-i-Suva Forest Park is full of fluttering natives. Serious twitchers are in for a treat on Fiji's other islands. Taveuni tops the list, with 100-plus species, including the rare orange dove, bright-red kula parrots and birds of prey, while the island's looming Des Voeux Peak is heaven for birdwatchers. Vanua Levu houses a silktail sanctuary, while to the south Kadavu impresses with plenty of indigenous rainforest species.

Bruises, bumps and declarations of 'Most fun ever!' are the order of the day at this natural cascade of rock slides on the island of Taveuni. Start by watching the local kids to get an idea of what you’re in for. They make it look easy, tackling the slides standing surfer-style, each turn more outrageously brave/crazy than the last; you, on the other hand, should go down on your bum. Your (doubtless awkward) attempt will be rewarded by a cool plunge into the pools below.

Fiji's large populations of manta rays and sharks provide the ultimate thrill for undersea explorers. Between May and October, manta rays cruise the channel between Nanuya Balavu and Drawaqa islands in the Yasawas; resorts in the area drop guests in the passage, which has a no-touch, no-scuba policy designed to protect the graceful rays. Snorkelling with mantas is also possible in Kadavu. Sharks patrol much of Fiji's waters; see them on a snorkel trip in the lower Yasawas or on a daring dive with bull and tiger sharks at Beqa Lagoon.

The Wild West meets the South Seas at Levuka, the country’s sleepy one-time colonial capital and Fiji’s only Unesco World Heritage Site. You can almost imagine sailors rowdily bursting out from the frayed but colourful timber shopfronts. Back then the structures may have been saloons, but nowadays the buildings, some of which were damaged by Cyclone Winston in 2016, mainly hold stores of odds and ends. Women from the villages sell dalo (taro), and produce on the side of the road, a church rises faded and cracked-white against the sky and the only sounds come from the occasional car chugging through town.