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Playa Grande
A long, broad, tawny beach with aquamarine water on one side and a thick fringe of palm trees on the other. Stark white cliffs jut out into the ocean in the distance. A surf school here offers lessons.
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North Coast
On the Dominican Republic’s north coast, you’ll find world-class beaches, water sports galore and out-of-the-way locales evocative of timeless rural life. This long coastal corridor stretching from the Haitian border in the west to Río San Juan in the east has enclaves of condo-dwelling expat communities that have endowed some towns with a whiff of international flavor. There are forested hills, dry desert scrublands, and jungly nature preserves with tumbling waterfalls. There are sleepy little towns with laundry drying on clotheslines, old folks holding court at sidewalk bars and mile after mile of sandy beaches. There’s also the genteel, urban vibe of Puerto Plata, whose classic Caribbean architecture – Victorian-era buildings painted in bright pastels – belies its past as a regional capital. Independent travelers will find accommodations of all stripes and several good places to base themselves for further exploration, especially Cabarete, where you can kitesurf, surf or just plain bodysurf.
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout North Coast.
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Playa La Entrada
Playa Entrada is one of the longest, most picture-postcard-worthy beaches in the country. Privacy is easy to come by. A couple of informal shacks sell seafood and drinks (these might be abandoned on weekdays). It's east of Cabrera, a few kilometers past Playa Diamante.
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Teleférico
A cable car takes visitors to the top of the enormous flat-topped Pico Isabel de Torres. On clear days there are spectacular views of the city and coastline – go early, before the mountain clouds up. The botanical gardens at the top are good for an hour’s stroll. You'll also find a large statue of Christ the Redeemer (similar to but smaller than its counterpart in Rio de Janeiro), an overpriced restaurant and aggressive knickknack sellers. Cable-car tickets are cash only.
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Fuerte de San Felipe
Located right on the bay, at the western end of the Malecón, the fort is the only remnant of Puerto Plata’s early colonial days. Built in the mid-16th century to prevent pirates from seizing one of the only protected bays on the entire north coast, San Felipe never saw any action. For much of its life its massive walls and interior moat were used as a prison.
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Parque Nacional El Choco
The famous caves of Parque Nacional El Choco are ensconced in the foothills of the Cordillera Septentrional, among 77 sq km of pastureland, lagoon, jungle, freshwater springs and rolling hills. The stunning, privately managed caves are walking distance from town, and can be visited during a 1½-hour tour. Bring a swimsuit – the crystal-stalactite caves 25m below the surface offer two opportunities to swim in small clear pools, provided the guide can still see you with his flashlight.
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Haitian Market
A bustling market held on the DR side of the border. Haitians come over to buy and sell fruit, vegetables and everything else, as well as contraband (including donations from international organizations, which are sold here wholesale and then shipped elsewhere in the country). Crowds push and shove wheelbarrows, motorcycles burrow through the throng and crates of goods are piled high on women’s heads.
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Laguna Gri-Gri
This lagoon at the northern end of Calle Duarte is fairly picturesque, with a dozen or more boatmen offering hour-long tours (US$50 for up to seven people) through tangled mangrove channels, including interesting rock formations and a cave populated by hundreds of swallows.
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Casa Museo General Gregorio Luperón
The life and times of native-born son and independence leader Gregorio Luperón are impressively fleshed out inside this beautifully restored, pale-green, Victorian-era building. Photographs and period artifacts trace Luperón's life, from humble beginnings to his role as provisional president during the 'Restoration,' as well as the story of Puerto Plata during the late 19th century. Staff are knowledgeable and enthusiastic.
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Playa Encuentro
Four kilometers west of town. The place to go for surfing, though top windsurfers and kitesurfers sometimes come to take advantage of the larger waves. The beach itself is a long, narrow stretch of sand backed by lush tropical vegetation; strong tides and rocky shallows make swimming here difficult. To find the beach, look for the fading yellow archway and sign that says ‘Coconut Palms Resort.’ Definitely not safe to walk around here at night.