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North Coast

On the Dominican Republic’s north coast, you’ll find world-class beaches, water sports galore and out-of-the-way locales evocative of timeless rural life. This long coastal corridor stretching from the Haitian border in the west to Río San Juan in the east has enclaves of condo-dwelling expat communities that have endowed some towns with a whiff of international flavor. There are forested hills, dry desert scrublands, and jungly nature preserves with tumbling waterfalls. There are sleepy little towns with laundry drying on clotheslines, old folks holding court at sidewalk bars and mile after mile of sandy beaches. There’s also the genteel, urban vibe of Puerto Plata, whose classic Caribbean architecture – Victorian-era buildings painted in bright pastels – belies its past as a regional capital. Independent travelers will find accommodations of all stripes and several good places to base themselves for further exploration, especially Cabarete, where you can kitesurf, surf or just plain bodysurf.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout North Coast.

  • See

    Casa Museo General Gregorio Luperón

    The life and times of native-born son and independence leader Gregorio Luperón are impressively fleshed out inside this beautifully restored, pale-green, Victorian-era building. Photographs and period artifacts trace Luperón's life, from humble beginnings to his role as provisional president during the 'Restoration,' as well as the story of Puerto Plata during the late 19th century. Staff are knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Dominicans and Spanish speakers are charged only adult/child RD$100/50.

  • See

    Teleférico

    A cable car takes visitors to the top of the enormous flat-topped Pico Isabel de Torres. On clear days there are spectacular views of the city and coastline – go early, before the mountain clouds up. The botanical gardens at the top are good for an hour’s stroll. You'll also find a large statue of Christ the Redeemer (similar to but smaller than its counterpart in Rio de Janeiro), an overpriced restaurant and aggressive knickknack sellers. Cable-car tickets are cash only. Board the teleférico at its base at the southern end of Camino a los Domínguez, 800m uphill from Av José Ginebra (near the entrance to the campus for Universidad Tecnológica de Santiago, aka UTESA). A motoconcho (motorcycle taxi) here costs RD$75, a taxi RD$300. The ride is notorious for opening late or closing early. Officially licensed guides will no doubt try to coax any independent travelers to use their services, though they really aren’t necessary. In theory, you can also walk up (or down) the mountain, paying only a one-way fare to return (the trail begins under the cable car). However, this can’t really be recommended, partly because it’s a strenuous two- to three-hour walk (about 7km) and certainly impossible to do without a guide (in part because of safety issues). On weekends, local guides (RD$1000) hang out in the ticket-office parking lot. Iguana Mama also offers this tour.

  • See

    Fuerte de San Felipe

    Located right on the bay, at the western end of the Malecón, the fort is the only remnant of Puerto Plata’s early colonial days. Built in the mid-16th century to prevent pirates from seizing one of the only protected bays on the entire north coast, San Felipe never saw any action. For much of its life its massive walls and interior moat were used as a prison. Included with admission is an audio tour (available in English, French, German, Russian and Spanish); the music is quite rollicking, but it’s disappointingly thin in terms of historical breadth and depth. There are short explanations of the objects displayed in the small museum – a few rusty handcuffs, a handful of bayonets and a stack of cannonballs. The views of the bay are impressive, though, and a large grassy area in front of the fort makes for a restful stop. Also at the fort is Puerto Plata’s lighthouse, which first lit up on September 9, 1879, and was restored in 2000. The white-and-yellow tower – 24.4m tall, 6.2m in diameter – is a melding of neoclassical style with industrial construction.

  • See

    Parque Nacional El Choco

    The famous caves of Parque Nacional El Choco are ensconced in the foothills of the Cordillera Septentrional, among 77 sq km of pastureland, lagoon, jungle, freshwater springs and rolling hills. The stunning, privately managed caves are walking distance from town, and can be visited during a 1½-hour tour. Bring a swimsuit – the crystal-stalactite caves 25m below the surface offer two opportunities to swim in small clear pools, provided the guide can still see you with his flashlight. The park also offers several other activities, including a boat ride on the lagoon (US$20 per person) a 2½-hour guided hike (US$40 per person), horseback riding (US$40 per person) and birdwatching treks (US$40).

  • See

    Playa Encuentro

    Four kilometers west of town. The place to go for surfing, though top windsurfers and kitesurfers sometimes come to take advantage of the larger waves. The beach itself is a long, narrow stretch of sand backed by lush tropical vegetation; strong tides and rocky shallows make swimming here difficult. To find the beach, look for the fading yellow archway and sign that says ‘Coconut Palms Resort.’ Definitely not safe to walk around here at night.

  • See

    Museo del Ambar Dominicano

    The colonial-era building houses a collection of amber exhibits. These exhibits include valuable pieces with such rare inclusions as a small 50-million-year-old lizard and a 30cm-long feather (the longest one found to date). Tours are offered in English and Spanish. A gift shop on the ground floor has a large selection of jewelry, rum, cigars, handicrafts and souvenirs.

  • See

    Kite Beach

    Two kilometers west of town. A sight to behold on windy days, when scores of kiters of all skill levels negotiate huge sails and 30m lines amid the waves and traffic. On those days there’s no swimming here, as you’re liable to get run over.

  • See

    Playa Sosúa

    Playa Sosúa is the main beach, and practically a city within a city. Located on a crescent-shaped bay with calm, turquoise waters, this narrowing (due to erosion) stretch of sand is backed by palm trees and a seemingly endless row of souvenir vendors, restaurants, bars and even manicurists. The crowds of Dominican families and long-term visitors staying in local hotels and condos make this lively beach a great place for people-watching. Snorkel gear is available for rent (two hours RD$400, includes life jacket and bread for the fish). Israeli flags lining the entrance point to Sosúa's legacy as a haven for Jews fleeing Nazi Germany.

  • See

    Museo de la Comunidad Judía de Sosúa

    This museum has exhibits with Spanish and English text describing the Jewish presence in the DR. At the multinational Evian conference in 1938 the DR was the only country to officially accept Jewish refugees fleeing Nazi repression in Germany (part of Trujillo's efforts to whiten the DR's population). If the gate is locked during opening hours, ring the number listed above – but don't get your hopes up.