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Santander

The north-central department of Santander is a patchwork of steep craggy mountains, deep canyons, plummeting waterfalls, raging rivers, unexplored caves and a temperate, dry climate. Mix them together and it's easy to see why Santander has become a favorite destination for outdoor lovers. Extreme-sports nuts can choose from white-water rafting, paragliding, caving, rappelling, hiking and mountain biking. Visitors with more sanity can enjoy exploring the rustic charms of Barichara, strolling the whitewashed streets of Girón or getting their dance on in the nightclubs in the department capital city of Bucaramanga.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Santander.

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Cascadas de Juan Curi
Take a day trip to this spectacular 180m-high waterfall where you can swim in the natural pool at its base or relax on the rocks. Adventure junkies can rappel the sheer face of the falls; book this activity with one of the tour companies. Juan Curi is 22km from San Gil on the road to Charalá. Charalá buses (COP$6300, one hour) depart twice hourly from the local bus terminal. Ask to be let off at 'Las Cascadas,' where two 20-minute trails lead up to the falls. Most travelers choose the cheaper (though slightly less beautiful) trail at Juan Curi Parque Ecologico, which is the first entry coming from San Gil. It's the only trail that allows access to higher sections of the falls; both paths give access to the swimming hole below. If you like food, combine a trip here with a stop in Valle de San José for the famous chorizo cooked in guarapo (fermented sugarcane juice) at Piqueteadero Doña Eustaquia.
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Cueva de la Vaca
Located just outside the town of Curití, La Vaca is the most attractive and adventurous cave in the are,a with numerous caverns filled with stalagmites and stalactites. To explore the cave you'll need to go on a guided tour (90 minutes), which can be organized in town. At one point you'll have to swim through a submerged tunnel, although there's a rope to guide you along. Wear old clothes – you'll get muddy. Not for the claustrophobic.
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Parque Para Las Artes
A lovely little park decorated with impressive water features (although they were out of service when we visited), statues carved by local sculptors and an outdoor amphitheater that occasionally hosts live music concerts. From the park you can enjoy breathtaking views of the neighboring valley.
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Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción
This 18th-century sandstone church is the most elaborate structure in Barichara, looking somewhat too big for the town’s needs. Its golden stonework (which turns deep orange at sunset) contrasts with the whitewashed houses surrounding it. The building has a clerestory (a second row of windows high up in the nave), which is unusual for a Spanish colonial church.
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Parque El Gallineral
San Gil's showpiece is the salubrious Parque El Gallineral, a 4-hectare park set on a triangular island between two arms of the Quebrada Curití and Río Fonce. Many of the 1900 trees are covered with long, silvery tendrils of moss called barbas de viejo (old man's beard), hanging from branches to form translucent curtains of foliage and filtered sunlight. It's like a scene set in JRR Tolkien's Middle Earth. Several paths and covered bridges snake through the urban forest and over the rushing streams. Two large chlorinated pools have been constructed to replace the natural pool that was closed due to health issues. While the new pools are a bit at odds with the glorious natural surroundings, they're nevertheless good places to cool off. Otherwise, just come to sip a cerveza (beer) at one of the restaurants or cafes. Upon paying admission you'll be given a wristband permitting access throughout the day until last entry at 5pm.
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Museo Casa de Bolívar
Another piece in the historical jigsaw of Simón Bolívar's life (Colombia is full of them), this slightly musty museum is housed in a colonial mansion where the libertador stayed for two months in 1828. One room is dedicated to Bolívar and his exploits, while the rest of the suites tell the story of Santander province and the Guane people who once inhabited it. Take your time to peruse archaeological exhibits, weapons, yellowed documents, faded paintings, and frighteningly real mummies. The house – if you're able to see past the unsightly temporary tin roof – has a mossy, dusty elegance and is anchored by a proud bust of Bolívar guarded by several flags in the central patio.
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Jardin Botánico Eloy Valenzuela
Located a short walk from the park in Floridablanca, this lush botanic garden beside a pretty stream is a good place to take a break from the city, although you can still hear the frenzied traffic in the distance. In addition to wonderful trees covered with drooping moss, it has two small lakes and a population of turtles. Admission includes the services of a guide, but you're also free to explore on your own.
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Taller Centro Dia
Inside the courtyard of the Museo Aquileo Parra, this collective of 24 senior citizens weaves bags and other artisanal products from fique fibers using traditional looms. Come and watch them work and buy a bag on your way out – they're cheap and the group makes ends meet with the proceeds.
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Iglesia de Santa Bárbara
Atop a hill at the north end of town, Barichara's oldest church was carefully reconstructed in the 1990s (only the facade survived). The floor has quite a steep slope from the main doorway up to the altar. Out front there's a magnificent old ceiba – one of the oldest trees in town.