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Colombia ends its desert-to-jungle Caribbean coastline with a flourish: the idyllic, laid-back villages of Capurganá and Sapzurro, and their surrounding beaches, are hidden in a corner of Colombia's northwest, just a stroll from the Panamanian border. Hemmed in by jungle-covered mountains and washed by fabulously azure waters, the villages are full of colorful quirks. Cars are banned, electricity gets turned off almost daily and ATMs remain a distant urban rumor.
Part of the adventure is just getting here: both villages are only accessible by a choppy 1½- to 2½-hour boat ride from Turbo or Necoclí, or by a tiny plane from Medellín. Consequently, the beaches remain pleasantly unkempt and the jungle deliciously impenetrable. While in-the-know Colombians and a trickle of foreign backpackers might visit the area, the vibe is still decidedly casual, unhurried and locally led.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Capurganá & Sapzurro.
Seafood
Scour the coast and you won't find better seafood – or a warmer welcome – than at Josefina's. Her medium-sized pargo (red snapper) practically fills the plate and is a succulent joy, supported by coconut rice, tangy salad and crispy patacones (plantain chips); the crema de camerón (cream-of-shrimp soup) isn't far behind.
Colombian
This simple window-in-the-wall place with the silly name does do great arepas (corn cakes), but owner-chef Amparo will prepare more elaborate dishes, including veritable feasts of veggies, if you order a few hours ahead. Breakfast is also available.
Colombian
Facing you as you get off the launch from Capurganá, this fish restaurant is demonstrably popular, with locals and visitors alike crowding in. The set meal includes a soup, a fish or seafood main course, and some kind of dessert.