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Yunnan
Yunnan (云南, Yúnnán) is the most diverse province in all China, both in its extraordinary mix of peoples and in the splendour of its landscapes. That combination of superlative sights and many different ethnic groups has made Yunnan the trendiest destination for China’s exploding domestic tourist industry.
More than half of the country’s minority groups reside here, providing a glimpse into China’s hugely varied mix of humanity. Then there’s the eye-catching contrasts of the land itself: dense jungle sliced by the Mekong River in the far south; soul-recharging glimpses of the sunset over rice terraces in the southeastern regions; snowcapped mountains as you edge towards Tibet.
Infrastructure development makes travel here easier than ever, but you’ll need time to see it all – whatever time you’ve set aside for Yunnan, double it.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Yunnan.
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Bada Rice Terrace
Bada is one of the finest rice terraces at Yuanyang to catch the sunset at. If you only have time for one terrace, this is it.
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Golden Temple
The Golden Temple Scenic Area is equal parts religious space, forest park, botanical garden and open-air sculpture museum; it covers 118 hectares on the northwestern outskirts of the city. The obvious highlight is the namesake Qing dynasty shrine, the largest bronze temple in China, which shines magnificently under the bright Yunnan sun. Numerous buses from the centre stop out front, or take the metro to the North Bus Station and transfer to Bus 57.
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Mingyong Glacier
Tumbling off the side of Kawa Karpo peak is the 12km-long Mingyong Glacier. At over 13 sq km, it is not only the lowest glacier in China (around 2200m) but also an oddity – a monsoon marine glacier, which basically translates as having an ecosystem that couldn’t possibly be more diverse: tundra, taiga, broadleaf forest and meadow. Sadly, this natural wonder is also retreating at an alarming – and increasing – rate. The mountain, representing the embodiment of the warrior god Kawa Karpo, has been a pilgrimage site for centuries and you’ll still meet a few Tibetan pilgrims, some of whom circumambulate the mountain over seven days in autumn. Surrounding villages are known as ‘heaven villages’ because of the dense fog that hangs about in spring and summer. The way to the glacier leads up from Mingyong’s central square. The visitor centre sells tickets (¥75 round-trip) for electric carts to shuttle you 3.6km up to the start of the walk; you can also follow the same road on foot. From the end of the cart road it's a steady uphill of 2.5km via a new staircase that rises nearly 500 vertical metres – the old horse path is visible below, but there are only a few spots where it's accessible. At the top is Lotus Temple (莲花庙, Liánhuā Miào), which offers incredible views of the glacier framed by prayer flags and chörten (Tibetan stupas). It's home to a single monk who lives here for a month at a stretch without leaving the mountain. Mingyong village consists of only a couple of hotels, restaurants and shops. You can overnight in the very basic Renqin Hotel. From Deqin, irregular private minibuses to Mingyong leave from the bridge near the market at the top end of town (¥20 per person), or you can hire your own for around ¥150. If you’re coming from Yubeng, you could also hike a high trail to Mingyong from Xidang in around three hours if you hoof it. The road from Deqin descends into the dramatic Mekong Gorge. Six kilometres before Mingyong the road crosses the Mekong River and branches off to Xidang. There is a checkpoint here where you will need to show your national park ticket or buy one if you haven't already.
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Three Pagodas
Absolutely the symbol of the town and region, these pagodas, a 2km walk north of the north gate, are among the oldest standing structures in southwestern China. The tallest of the three, Qianxun Pagoda, has 16 tiers that reach a height of 70m. It was originally erected in the mid-9th century by engineers from Xi'an. It is flanked by two smaller 10-tiered pagodas, each of which are 42m high. Guided tours in English are available from ¥120. While the price is cheeky considering you can’t go inside the pagodas, Chongsheng Temple (崇圣寺, Chóngshèng Sì) behind them has been rebuilt to an incredible degree along the design of the destroyed Nanzhao-era original, and is well worth exploring. Just inside the main entrance, the Chong Sheng Vegetarian Buffet serves lunch (¥20, 11.30am to 1pm).
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Bamboo Temple
Tucked away atop a winding mountain road up the forested hills northwest of the city centre, this serene temple is definitely one to be visited by sculptors as much as by those interested in temple collecting. Raised during the Tang dynasty in 639 AD, it was refitted in the Qing Dynasty by master Sichuan sculptor Li Guangxiu and his apprentices, featuring 500 luóhàn (罗汉, arhats or noble ones) in a fascinating mishmash of superb realism and head-scratching exaggerated surrealism. Li and his mates pretty much went gonzo in their excruciating, seven-year attempt to perfectly represent human existence in statuary. Check out the 70-odd surfing Buddhas, riding the waves on a variety of mounts – blue dogs, giant crabs, shrimp and turtles. So lifelike are the sculptures that they were considered in bad taste by Li Guangxiu's contemporaries (some of whom no doubt appeared in caricature), and upon the project's completion he disappeared into thin air. The temple is about 12km northwest of Kunming. Take a bus to Huangtupo (黄土坡, Huángtǔpō; Bus 2 runs here from the Confucian Temple bus stop), from where minibus C61 (¥8 per person) runs to the Bamboo Temple. If you visit around midday the temple kitchen prepares a simple vegetarian lunch for ¥10 per person, and the all-day teahouse on-site makes a pleasant stop as well.
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Gantong Temple
Originally constructed in the Tang dynasty, this was once the most important temple in the Dali area. Only one of the original 36 halls remains, but reconstruction continues apace and in its forested mountainside setting the atmosphere is magnificent. Most notable is the uppermost temple (just uphill for visitors arriving on the stone path descending from the Jade Belt Road) for the delicate, manicured gardens and wonderful teahouse (10.30am to 6pm) inside. Pay whatever you like for the tea, leave a ¥100 deposit for the glassware, and pick a spot to relax for a while.
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Duoyishu Rice Terrace
Located about 25km from Xinjie, this rice terrace has the most awesome sunrises. As it's walking distance from Pugaolao it's an easy choice for the morning.
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Black Dragon Pool Park
On the northern edge of town is Black Dragon Pool Park; the view from here of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is an obligatory photo stop in southwestern China. The Dongba Cultural Institute is part of a renovated complex on the hillside inside, an interesting stop for Naxi cultural artefacts and scrolls featuring the unique Naxi pictograph script. Trails lead up Elephant Hill (象山, Xiàng Shān) to a dilapidated gazebo and then across a spiny ridge past a communications centre and back down the other side, making a nice morning hike (but bring your passport to register before you start the hike). The park is included in the all-encompassing Lijiang Old Town entrance ticket, but in practice this is the only place it seems to be checked.
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Swallow's Cavern
Set inside a small nature reserve, this large cave complex is split into two – one high and dry, the other low and wet. The natural quiet of the popular wet cave is diluted a bit by bright neon lighting and a small shopping complex, as well as the drone of free motorboats that ferry tourists back to the cave mouth, but the hundreds of thousands of swallows flying around in spring and summer are a delightful touch of wildlife.