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Hubei

The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against all travel to Hubei Province due to an outbreak of the coronavirus.

Many travelers find themselves drifting into Hubei (湖北; Húběi) through the Three Gorges, the precipitous marvel that's a continuation of Chongqing's uniquely lush and hilly landscape. This classic trip down the Yangzi is the perfect introduction to Hubei's natural beauty.

Sliced by rivers and dappled with lakes, Hubei's western regions are dominated by stunning mountain scenery, from the national parks of Shennongjia and Enshi to the historic Taoist retreat of Wudang Shan. In 1944, the only variety of redwood growing outside of the USA, the dawn redwood, was discovered in these mountains.

While eastern Hubei is better known for its industrial belt rather than scenic beauty, the region's central location has ensured it played a key role in China's history. Vestiges spanning thousands of years, from the ancient state of Chu to the modern Wuchang Uprising, which led to the downfall of dynastic China, are woven into the province's very fabric.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hubei.

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Guiyuan Temple
An afternoon at this revered 350-year-old Buddhist temple can fluctuate between serenity and chaos, depending on the tour buses. Pass a large rectangular pond where turtles cling like shipwrecked sailors to two metal lotus flowers and examine the magnificently burnished cabinet housing Milefo in the first hall. Also seek out the more than 500 statues of enlightened disciples in the Hall of Arhats (罗汉堂, Luóhàn Táng). Completed in 1890, after nine years in the making, they remain in pristine condition. In the Mahasattva Pavilion (大士阁; Dàshì Gé), the 2m-high Tang-dynasty tablet carved with an image of Guanyin holding a willow branch is impressive, and a jade Buddha resides in the Sutra Storing Pavilion (藏经阁; Cángjīng Gé).
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Hubei Provincial Museum
The highlights of Hubei's Provincial Museum are excavations from the Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng (c 433 BC): there are bronze wares, weaponry and musical instruments – including one of the world’s largest, a remarkable five-tonne set of 65 double-tone bronze bells. Half-hour chime bell performances (¥30) are given thrice daily (10.30am, 2pm and 3pm) during the week, with an extra performance at 11.30am on the weekend. Other exhibits here include Palaeolithic fossils and Neolithic bronzes and pottery. Passport required. The museum is by the enormous East Lake (东湖, Dōng Hú). Bus 411 runs here from the Yellow Crane Tower. Line 8 on the metro will eventually stop here too.
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Yellow Crane Tower
Wuhan’s mythical crane, immortalised in the 8th-century poetry of Cui Hao, has long flown, but the city landmark remains perched atop Snake Hill. The tower has been rebuilt often since the original was constructed in AD 223, and today’s five-storey, yellow-tiled version is a 1980s remake of the Qing tower that burned down in 1884. Bus 411 runs between the tower and the provincial museum. The Dongtinmen stop on metro Line 7 will get you close, while Line 5 will eventually run directly here.
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Hubei Museum of Art
Focusing on modern Chinese art, the first two floors here are dedicated to temporary exhibits, while the 3rd floor features a permanent collection tracing the development of art in Hubei in the 20th century. Don't expect anything too provocative, but as it's right next door to the Provincial Museum it's certainly worth a visit. Bus 411 runs here from the Yellow Crane Tower.
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Enshi Grand Canyon
Encompassing sheer limestone cliffs and a series of waterfalls cascading down the side of a narrow river gorge, Enshi has some marvellous scenery. It's divided in two sections: the lower gorge (云龙地缝, Yúnlóng Dìfèng; translated on signs as 'Yunlong Crack'; elevation 1034m) and the upper clifftop area, Seven Star Village (七星寨, Qīxīng Zhài; elevation 1704m). The river gorge is relatively short with several lovely waterfalls, while the clifftop is more of a hike, eventually opening up to far-reaching views over the valley floor. Ticket prices are quite confusing for the uninitiated – you can choose to visit both areas or just one, with optional extras like the cable car adding to the final price.There are additional add-ons inside the park too, such as a long series of escalators descending from the upper section to the final bus stop – this costs an extra ¥30, though you can choose to walk instead. We recommend visiting both areas if you have a full day, and while the cable car is nice, you can save about ¥100 by taking the bus instead and walking from the last bus stop – note that you will need to change buses to do this. Now for the caveat: this is a popular destination that was not designed with big crowds in mind. The lower gorge in particular is very narrow and subject to excruciatingly long bottlenecks for the better part of an hour – get there as early (or late) as possible to avoid this. The upper gorge will take about 2½ hours to walk and can also get quite crowded. The first hour or so is just OK, and it's not until you reach Ancient Elephant Mountain that the views really start to impress. The iconic formation here is A Stick of Incense (一炷香, Yī Zhù Xiāng), a slender and supremely photogenic limestone spire. All told, you should expect to spend about five to seven hours here. There are plenty of vendors serving simple meals (fried potatoes are a speciality) and drinks. Enshi Grand Canyon is 50km northwest of town; buses (¥25, 1½ hours) leave regularly from the bus station (across from the train station) from 6.30am to 5.30pm – it's a very scenic ride. The last bus back is at 6pm.
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Nǚ'ér Chéng
This Tujia-focused outdoor mall-like area is Enshi's favourite option for nightlife. Local song-and-dance performances (featuring the usual communist-approved 'minority circle dance') are held throughout the day, but the most popular show takes place around 7.30pm nightly. Show up early to grab dinner at one of the innumerable street stalls, sample some local tea and browse the handicrafts displays and shops. It's quite a hike from the train station area – bus 31 from the local bus lot across from the station terminates nearby (¥2, one hour, last bus around 7.30pm), after which you'll need to walk for 10 minutes (ask for directions), or you can take a much quicker taxi for ¥30. There are also a few hotels based here.
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Tǔsī Chéng
This re-created fortified Tujia town is essentially just a walk in a pleasant park combined with a few examples of recently built Tujia architecture. The main attraction is the large Nine Row House complex (九进堂) with a lovely circular tower and authentic examples of woodcarving and metalwork. It's a ¥17 taxi ride from the train station, or you can take bus 30 (¥2, 45 minutes).
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Changchun Temple
This restored Taoist temple originally dates back to the Han dynasty. The Hall of Supreme Purity (太清殿; Tàiqīng Diàn), containing a white-bearded statue of Laotzu, is the centrepiece, with other halls leading up the steep steps behind it. There’s a well-regarded vegetarian restaurant next door.
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Hankou Bund
The Hankou Bund is a roughly 4km stretch of curated park running parallel to the Yangzi where locals gather to amble or gossip. There are some tea houses and bars, a few historic buildings, mahjong and chess boards, and some green areas. Mostly, though, it's locals escaping the concrete and posing for photos, especially around sunrise and sunset.