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The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against all travel to Hubei Province due to an outbreak of the coronavirus.
Many travelers find themselves drifting into Hubei (湖北; Húběi) through the Three Gorges, the precipitous marvel that's a continuation of Chongqing's uniquely lush and hilly landscape. This classic trip down the Yangzi is the perfect introduction to Hubei's natural beauty.
Sliced by rivers and dappled with lakes, Hubei's western regions are dominated by stunning mountain scenery, from the national parks of Shennongjia and Enshi to the historic Taoist retreat of Wudang Shan. In 1944, the only variety of redwood growing outside of the USA, the dawn redwood, was discovered in these mountains.
While eastern Hubei is better known for its industrial belt rather than scenic beauty, the region's central location has ensured it played a key role in China's history. Vestiges spanning thousands of years, from the ancient state of Chu to the modern Wuchang Uprising, which led to the downfall of dynastic China, are woven into the province's very fabric.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hubei.
Mountain
Wudang Shan attracts a diverse array of climbers, from Taoist pilgrims with knapsacks and porters shouldering paving slabs and sacks of rice, to tired parents piggybacking young kids and bright-eyed octogenarians hopping along. It’s a gruelling climb but the scenery is worth every step; several Taoist temples line the route (where you can take contemplative breathers) and you’ll see the occasional Taoist inscription or trees garlanded with scarlet ribbons.
National Park
Shennongjia is a vast wilderness area, and what you visit is largely determined by your driver, fellow passengers and available time; however, there are definitely some areas that are worth trying to get to. Seeing the rare golden snub-nosed monkey (川金丝猴, chuān jīnsīhóu) is a highlight for most, and Xiǎolóngtán (小龙潭), about 10km from the entrance, is one place to spot them.
Buddhist Temple
An afternoon at this revered 350-year-old Buddhist temple can fluctuate between serenity and chaos, depending on the tour buses. Pass a large rectangular pond where turtles cling like shipwrecked sailors to two metal lotus flowers and examine the magnificently burnished cabinet housing Milefo in the first hall. Also seek out the more than 500 statues of enlightened disciples in the Hall of Arhats (罗汉堂, Luóhàn Táng). Completed in 1890, after nine years in the making, they remain in pristine condition.
Museum
At this small but surprisingly good museum you'll find wonderful artefacts unearthed from Chu tombs around the area. The jade and porcelain halls are marvellous, and there is a collection of old silks that appear to float in their cabinets. The highlight is the incredibly well-preserved 2000-year-old body of a man found in his tomb with ancient tools, clothing and even food; the airtight mud seal around his crypt helped preserve him.
Archaeological Site
Forty kilometres north of Jingzhou, the 2300-year-old tombs of Xióngjiā Zhǒng are the source of a large collection of jade – on display at the Jingzhou Museum – while there is a fascinating and huge collection of skeletal horses and chariots in a section of the tomb in a hangar-like museum that is open to visitors.
Museum
The highlights of Hubei's Provincial Museum are excavations from the Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng (c 433 BC): there are bronze wares, weaponry and musical instruments – including one of the world’s largest, a remarkable five-tonne set of 65 double-tone bronze bells. Half-hour chime bell performances (¥30) are given thrice daily (10.30am, 2pm and 3pm) during the week, with an extra performance at 11.30am on the weekend. Other exhibits here include Palaeolithic fossils and Neolithic bronzes and pottery. Passport required.
Taoist Site
The walled Forbidden City encompasses the very tip-top of Wudang Shan and is accessed from the Taihe Palace near the cable car exit. The Chinese name Zǐjīn Chéng (literally, 'purple gold city') is actually a clever homophone for Beijing's Zǐjìn Chéng (紫禁城; Forbidden City), reflecting the Taoist belief that the organisation of the celestial and earthly worlds mirror one another.
Historic Site
Wuhan’s mythical crane, immortalised in the 8th-century poetry of Cui Hao, has long flown, but the city landmark remains perched atop Snake Hill. The tower has been rebuilt often since the original was constructed in AD 223, and today’s five-storey, yellow-tiled version is a 1980s remake of the Qing tower that burned down in 1884.
Dam
The huge, hulking Three Gorges Dam is the world’s largest dam due to its length (2.3km) rather than its height (101m), and while it isn’t the most spectacular dam, it is worth a peek. You can’t walk on it, but there’s a tourist viewing area to the north. The easiest way to visit from Yichang is to join a half-day tour (in Chinese) leaving from the Three Gorges Tourist Centre (¥100, departures 8am and 2pm).