A marvel of Chinese garden design and one of Beijing's must-see attractions, the Summer Palace (颐和园,Yíhéyuán) was the royal retreat for emperors fleeing the suffocating summer torpor of the imperial city, and the preferred residence of Empress Dowager Cixi. It merits an entire day’s exploration, although a morning or afternoon exploring its waterways, pavilions, bridges and temples may suffice.
Layout
The Summer Palace was part of the domain of imperial gardens long before the Qianlong Emperor embellished it as the Garden of Clear Ripples in the mid-18th century. The complex was built around the central Kunming Lake, with the entrance in the east and the main buildings lining the northern banks. A ferry route runs between the east and northwestern shores; alternatively, hiring your own boat at one of the jetties (deposit required) is a great way to escape the crowds. If you have all day, following the West Causeway to the East Shore makes for a great walking circuit, with its lakeside views and arched bridges.
The Imperial Residence
Entering via the East Palace Gate, visitors arrive at the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity, from where Cixi ran the government. Glimpse the grand throne within; the rockery outside was designed to mimic the famous Lion Grove Garden in Suzhou. Note also the dragon and phoenix statues in the courtyard, the symbolic embodiment of emperor and empress. Here it's the phoenix that commands center spot, a clear sign that a woman was running the show. To the north is the 3-story Grand Theatre where the court would enjoy opera performances. Westwards are the living quarters, which still contain dusty Qing-era furniture.
Be sure to track down the Hall of Jade Waves. When the Guangxu Emperor, for whom Cixi had been ruling as regent, attempted to seize power and institute the sweeping 100 Days' Reform in 1898, Cixi responded by staging a coup. You can still see the remains of the brick walls that she erected in order to imprison the emperor here.
The Long Corridor
Cixi's living quarters were perfectly placed for access to the Long Corridor, a canopied walkway zigzagging westwards for 728m along the north shore of Kunming Lake at the foot of Longevity Hill. One can easily imagine Cixi being carried here in her sedan chair, admiring the artwork painted on every crossbeam, column and ceiling arch.
Longevity Hill
The Summer Palace's most commanding landmark is the octagonal Pagoda of Buddhist Incense, which rises 41m above the slopes of Longevity Hill. On the summit, behind the pagoda, is the Hall of the Sea of Wisdom. Adorned with 1008 niche images of the Buddha, it's one of the loveliest buildings in the palace and has sensational views over Kunming Lake towards Beijing. At the foot of Longevity Hill is the Hall of Dispelling Clouds, built by the Qianlong Emperor for his mother on her 60th birthday.
West Causeway
The further west you venture in the Summer Palace, the lighter the crowds. The slender West Causeway flows south for 2km over the water, crossing six bridges, the highlight being the remarkably steep Jade Belt Bridge. The willow-lined promenade offers some of the best spots for photographs of the Summer Palace. If you don't have the energy to circumnavigate the whole park, exit at the West Gate for the Xijiao Line, or return to catch the ferry by the Marble Boat.
