Flanked by triumphalist Soviet-style buildings, Tiananmen Sq (天安门广场, Tiān’ānmén Guǎngchǎng) is hallowed ground for the Communist Party. Watched over by Mao's portrait and haunted by the protesters of generations past, it's not the most easygoing of places, but it remains one of the nation's most stirring destinations. There are several sights within the heavily guarded security zone.
The Square
The rectangular arrangement of Tiananmen Sq, its many red flags rippling in the wind, to some extent pays obeisance to traditional Chinese culture, but most of its ornaments and buildings are Soviet-inspired. Mao conceived the square to project the power of the Communist Party, and during the Cultural Revolution he reviewed parades of up to a million people here.
The large gate at the northern end was traditionally the site before which commoners and officials could lodge grievances with the emperor, and this practice was revived several times over the course of the 20th century, initially on 4 May 1919, and most tragically in 1989, following the death of the reform-minded general secretary Hu Yaobang.
At the time of writing, Tiananmen had two main entrances: one at the Tiananmen East subway stop (line 1) and the other at the Qianmen subway stop (line 2). Once you gain access to the square, you'll be able to visit three other sights: the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall (in the center), the National Museum of China (east) and the Gate of Heavenly Peace (north).
Early risers can watch the daily flag-raising ceremony at sunrise, performed by a troop of People’s Liberation Army (PLA) soldiers marching at precisely 108 paces per minute, 75cm per pace. The reverse ceremony is performed at sunset.
Chairman Mao's Memorial Hall
One of Beijing's more surreal spectacles is the sight of Mao Zedong's embalmed corpse on public display within his mausoleum (毛主席纪念堂, Máo Zhǔxí Jìniàntáng), located at the heart of Tiananmen Sq. In order to enter, you must make advance reservations via WeChat (Chinese only); it's open from 8am to noon (Tuesday–Sunday). Tickets are extremely hard to get.
National Museum of China
Beijing's best museum (中国国家博物馆, Zhōngguó Guójiā Bówùguǎn) is unfortunately ensconced within the massive Tiananmen security zone, meaning you'll need to pass through security queues twice (once for the square and again for the museum) just to get in. Despite the hurdles, it is absolutely worth it. The basement is the star attraction, where numerous galleries introduce artifacts that span the entirety of Chinese civilization. Separate advance reservations are required (via WeChat, in Chinese).
Gate of Heavenly Peace
Instantly recognizable by its giant framed portrait of Mao, the double-eaved Gate of Heavenly Peace (天安门, Tiān’ānmén) is a potent national symbol. Formerly the largest of the four gates of the Imperial City Wall, it was from here that Mao proclaimed the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949.
The gate has incredible views of the square, but you do need advance tickets (via WeChat, in Chinese), which sell out quickly. The balcony is about as sacred a space as you can find in communist China, so be on your best behavior.
Even if you don't have tickets, you can still walk beneath the gate, which takes you to the Forbidden City. Visit this sight last: once you pass beneath it, you cannot turn around to reenter Tiananmen Sq.
1989 Protests
Tiananmen Sq is best known outside China for the tragic events of 3–4 June 1989. After six weeks of pro-democracy protests, when up to a million students and workers occupied the square, the army was sent in to crush the "counter-revolutionary riot." Few young people in China today know anything about the protests and subsequent deaths.
