Beijing's most touristy hutong district, Nanluogu Xiang (South Gong and Drum Lane) is a north–south strip of snack stalls, souvenir shops, Chinese tourists dressed as Manchu princesses and more people than you can possibly imagine on a single street – all set, rather unbelievably, to David Byrne's The Last Emperor theme song, which is blared on endless repeat.
It can be a good time if you want to buy the odd inexpensive gift (eg The Beijing Flirtatious Expressions Map – actually just a tourist map) and duck into the side streets in search of a historic residence or two.
It wasn't too long ago that Nanluogu Xiang was a sleepy residential hutong. Even after bars started to open up in the early noughties, it remained a hip destination for those in the know. The alley was given a makeover in 2006, and another in 2016. Authentic it ain't, but a few creative businesses have endured, such as iconic T-shirt brand Plastered 8, here since 2006.