Converted from a princely residence to a lamasery in the 18th century, the Lama Temple (雍和宫, Yōnghé Gōng; 12 Yonghegong Dajie, 北新桥雍和宫大街12号) extends through a crescendo of ever more divine halls in a cloud of incense to its astonishing finale, an 18m-high statue of Buddha carved from a single trunk of Tibetan sandalwood. Expect to spend at least an hour wandering the halls and courtyards, admiring the architecture, statues, wall-mounted mandalas and temple relics on show throughout.
The most revered Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet, the Lama Temple was originally the royal residence of the prince who would become the Yongzheng emperor, hence the yellow roof tiles on its central halls. While it remains an active place of worship staffed by monks, the temple is today visited mostly by tourists.
After entering the temple and walking the length of the Imperial Way, you'll come to the first of the temple's six main halls, which ascend in height and importance as you move through the complex. The can't-miss Maitreya Buddha is housed in the fifth hall (the Wanfu Pavilion) and was a gift from the seventh Dalai Lama to the Qianlong Emperor; it took three years to be transported from Lhasa to the capital. Also look out for the collection of Tibetan ritual objects, robes and mandalas within the rearmost side halls, particularly Banchan Lou, formerly the chambers of the sixth Panchen Lama, who visited Beijing to celebrate the emperor's birthday in 1780.
To join the other worshippers, pick up a bundle of 36 sticks of incense (free) just before passing through the first gate. If you'd like to say a prayer, light three sticks, bow three times, then add your lit incense to the burner. Non-Buddhists are welcome to participate.