Cradled by Beijing's Western Hills, this expansive Buddhist temple and former monastery climbs the hillside under a canopy of towering cypresses and pines, and makes for an easy half-day escape from the city. Said to date back to the Jin dynasty (AD 265–420), Tanzhe Temple peaked in the Qing as a royal pilgrimage site for emperors Kangxi and Qianlong. From Shichang station exit, turn right and catch bus 931 (25 mins, ¥2). Tanzhe Temple is the last stop.
The temple halls and sights runs along three axes, the middle of which has the centrepiece Mahavira Hall and behind it the 'Emperor Tree', a vast gingko said to be over 1000 years old. At the rear of the complex, the Guanyin Pavilion offers fine views of the temple and surrounding mountains. Inside, a slab is said to bear the footprints of Princess Miaoyan, Kublai Khan's daughter, who was so devoted to Buddha that she wore deep ruts into the stone with her praying.
The western axis includes the octagonal Lengyan Altar, while the east contains the abbot's quarters (where visiting emperors would stay) and the delightful Floating Cups Pavilion, a Qing-era water feature and ingenious drinking game.
The temple is busiest in mid-April when the magnolias are in bloom.
For a tasty vegetarian lunch, head to the restaurant inside the Jiafu Binshe Hotel by the temple entrance.
