Bosnia & Hercegovina

The Via Dinarica hiking trail: a cultural corridor across the Balkans

Waves of fog battled patches of blue sky as the Via Dinarica hiking trail inclined sharply to the junction between Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo. At the 2210m peak, punctuated by a stone tri-border marker, the morning sun won and shone a spotlight on the Albanian shepherd village of Dobërdol below. The residents – now tiny in the distance – were tending their flocks on an apron of pastureland framed by mountain summits.

As the path reached the ridgeline and then descended into Kosovo, the settlement receded from view. The symbolism, however, was still apparent: a trek on this new trans-Balkans route in southeastern Europe can link cultures and enable cross-border discovery in a way politics have failed to do for centuries.

Alex Crevar

Lonely Planet Writer

Shadows of war in Bosnia & Hercegovina

Bosnia & Hercegovina (abbreviated to BiH) is one of Europe’s lesser-known countries. When still part of Yugoslavia, its top-rated ski-resorts hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics. Its rivers offer some of Europe’s best (and best value) white water rafting. Its craggy contours are dotted with old castles. And the main cities have a curious mix of medieval Ottoman and 19th-century Austro-Hungarian architecture. But sadly, most people who've heard of Bosnia at all know it for the tragic civil war of 1992-1995.

Some twenty years later all is peaceful, but plenty of scars, both visible and invisible, remain. Moving museums commemorate the conflict, damaged buildings stand as silent reminders and the nation is still divided into separate political entities along old battle lines.

Mark Elliott

Lonely Planet Writer

Bullet holes, burek and beer: 48 hours in Sarajevo

It’s over 20 years since harrowing news footage of the besieged city of Sarajevo was broadcast around the world during the 1990s Bosnian war. Nowadays the only time the Bosnian capital feels besieged is during the mid-summer film-fest when the city's streets overflow with animated party-goers.

The historic centre’s unique blend of restored medieval Ottoman-Turkish and 19th-century Austro-Hungarian architecture makes a splendid backdrop for random strolling, bazaar bargains, inexpensive dining or sipping coffee in a caravanserai. And if you want to learn more about the tragic 1990s conflict, there are several thought-provoking museums and tours that will put things graphically in context.

Mark Elliott

Lonely Planet Writer