The best old towns in the Greek islands

You will see and hear hora a lot in Greece. In ancient times, it described a place or space, but now it has come to refer to a main town. And while relaxing in seclusion on one of the Greek islands is idyllic, for a lasting imprint, you’ve got to feel, see, smell and hear it all in the hora: the cheeky cats begging at the foot of your table, the desperate dart for the shade of a veranda or tree in the heat of the day, the symphonic clanging of cutlery and crackling from pans at a string of taverna kitchens, a lone bouzouki musician sitting on a rattan chair playing late into the night.

Typically, a hora existed high up, away from the port, and it was where administrative affairs were conducted and residents clustered together in a version of metropolitan living (in as much as that's possible on a remote island). Many of these towns have taken on new names since their heyday as the epicenter of action, yet they still exist, like an open-air museum to discover while island-hopping.

Dedicate part of your tour of Greece's best islands to becoming a hora explorer and let the sense of community and local life infuse your own enduring Mediterranean tale on these seven islands.

1. Amorgos

Best for traditional charm

Strolling through a tiny town on a Greek island can feel like walking onto a movie set. In Amorgos' Hora, the overhanging bougainvillea, abundance of Byzantine churches and windmills, and labyrinthian stone streets complete the scene.

Wend your way up the Kastro (castle) rock toward the 13th-century Venetian edifice, built in 1290 to protect the island. From that perspective, the village's unpretentious, simple charm, proudly kept intact throughout the centuries, shines through. Couple this trek with a visit to the Amorgos Folklore Museum, set inside a typical home. From there, walk downhill, past the iconic windmills, to the monastery, a poetic tribute of great spiritual significance built into the edge of a craggy cliff.

Planning tip: At 400m above sea level, the terrain surrounding Hora is hilly and a little challenging once you are off the main streets. Bear this in mind if you decide to walk to the monastery instead of drive. Visitors to the site should come prepared in respectful attire – pants for men and skirts of an appropriate long length for women. 

2. Serifos 

Best for unspoiled views

The hora that gets the most oohs and aahs is on Serifos – and there are technically two to explore. The island's oldest settlement is split between Ano (or Pano) Hora (upper) and Kato Hora (lower), sloping 4.5km above the port at Livadi and marked with traditional blue-domed churches and cubist-style Cycladic architecture. The twin towns are married in the middle by the castle.

Sitting on the white walls that line the large stone courtyard around the chapel of St Constantine on Serifos presents one of the most breathtaking and unspoiled views in the Cyclades – a far cry from the crowds of Santorini but with maybe just a touch of additional wind. As an unsheltered, hilly place, Serifos is renowned for blowing quite the breezy gale.

Planning tip: The best time to visit is in early to mid-June, when the island and its people are gearing up for summer. There’s still a lot of life to be enjoyed, but the subdued spaciousness is more desirable when wandering the neatly packed little streets. But don’t spend all your time up the hill and skip the shore – some of the best beaches in Greece are here, particularly on the east of the island. 

3. Alonissos 

Best for local food

With a diverse and distinct agricultural heritage, as well as fertile soil for vineyards and olive groves, Alonissos' Hora now stands as a veritable organic produce market for foodies chasing unique gastronomic offerings. An abundance of family-run restaurants (with equally abundant views) specialize in the island's typical fare using local ingredients. Be sure to get your hands on some Alonissos tuna (one of the smallest species of tuna), kakavia (a light and flavorful soup with a rich tomato broth, generous chunks of white fish and herbs), and more than one spiraled Alonissos tiropita (cheese pie) – the most famous dish on the island. 

Planning tip: Given its panoramic position, Hora is best paired with sunset. If you’re staying down in the port of Patitiri, an easy bus ride will take you right to the top for €1.80. But take care to note when the last one departs for the evening, as the schedule is season dependant and there’s not much going on between the two villages by way of roadside lighting and infrastructure if you find yourself tackling the 2.6km journey by foot late at night. 

4. Andros 

Best for art and architecture

Less rustic and more aristocratic, Andros has been a place of fine artistic taste and intellect since the 1800s, when booming shipping activity established it as a commercial and financial center. As is the way with a rise in wealth and prestige, Andros' Hora was touched by larger influences, and the mansions of the shipping moguls became defined by an aesthetic that combines Byzantine, Frankish and Ottoman architectural styles. Andros Archaeological Museum chronicles Andros' heritage.

The Hora of today is more about modern creativity than maritime exploits, backed by the Museum of Contemporary Art of the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation – a companion to the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation in Athens. Exhibitions showcase local and international artists. And the nonprofit Kydonieos Foundation facilitates artistic events and cultural experience on Andros.

Planning tip: Andros is one of the larger islands in the Aegean. After a full day of culture in town, base yourself in one of the quieter villages around the island to make the most of the many secluded beaches, inland waterfalls and hiking trails. As on other islands, the local buses are very easy, cheap and oh so scenic.

5. Folegandros 

Best for car-free tranquility

Positioned precariously on an escarpment 200m above the sea, Folegandros' Hora is one of the oldest medieval towns in the Cyclades. It is authentic, ungentrified but no less established, and known for its tranquil atmosphere. No cars or motorbikes are allowed, artisanal shops line the alleys, unfussy tavernas and lively plateies (squares) are shaded by trees – this hora is about as classically Greek island postcard as you can get.

The castle and medieval settlement rest on the very edge of a cliff. Also known as the Venetian Quarter, it was originally built for defense against pirate attacks but is now one of the most curious spots to wander through. The narrow alleyways provide a mazelike shelter, and the homes all have ancient whitewashed steps leading to the entrance.

Planning tip: Head up the fairly steep, zigzagging path from Plateia Pounta in the center of the village for about 15 minutes to reach the Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary). Best saved for sunset, the church is open from 6pm–9pm and can only be accessed by foot. For anyone planning a marriage proposal, this is the spot.

6. Syros

Best for Hellenic religious history 

As the capital of the Cycladic archipelago, Syros has established itself as a hybrid of administrative offices, architectural feats, historic relevance and an influx of creative youth. This island’s hora now goes by Ano Syros, and its religious history is particularly compelling. On Syros, Greek Catholic and Greek Orthodox communities have coexisted in harmony since the Venetian expansion.

Situated atop a hill like an inverted amphitheater, Ano Syros has a medieval sensibility separate from the Orthodox settlements nearby. Central to this distinction is the Catholic St George's Cathedral, which occupies the highest point of the town. Conquer the (many) uphill steps from the port of Ermoupoli and you'll find yourself walking along a virtual timeline of streets displaying two very different aesthetic and cultural influences at once – one established and embraced by the Catholic community, the other traditionally Orthodox. 

7. Ios

Best for sunset drinks and nightlife 

Summer in Greece means many things to many people. On Ios, the sultry season is of the party-all-night-long variety, along the lines of Mamma Mia island antics but real life. A haven for such happenings since the 1970s, Ios still stands as the spot for quintessential summer escapism, without the high prices of neighboring Mykonos. Hora is the go-to for sunset sipping, live music, scenic eats and hot, social nights – whether solo, with friends or on a couples getaway. 

Planning tip: Depending on your appetite for action, Hora can be an extremely strategic base, as it sits midway between the port of Ios and the island’s most popular beach resort, Mylopotas. Just be prepared to get some serious steps in as you trek up or down the hill, or take your chances navigating the slightly hairy, narrow roads if you are traveling by car.