The 11 best beaches in tiny but mighty Montenegro

Sparkling coves, historic fortified towns, rocky headlands, dramatic mountain backdrops and sands lapped by remarkably clear Adriatic waters: Montenegro’s tiny chunk of coastline has some of the most dazzling beaches in the Balkans – or the entire Mediterranean, for that matter.

Extending from the breathtaking Bay of Kotor down to the Albanian border, Montenegro’s shoreline measures less than 100km (62 miles) as the crow flies. And just about every stretch is fit for a postcard from paradise. While sand isn’t a constant, Montenegro’s rocky shores are every bit as idyllic, and the Adriatic waters just as refreshing.

Here’s our pick of Montenegro’s very best spots for swimming, sunbathing and jumping into the sparkling sea.

1. Sveti Stefan Beach, near Budva

Best beach for incredible photos

You’ll pay a hefty price if and when the walled village of Sveti Stefan luxury resort reopens (it’s currently caught up in a lengthy legal battle over access and land use). But for now – and hopefully forever –  everyone can enjoy the views over the picturesque island resort from the beach. Because the usually deserted northern end of the beach – part of the Aman Sveti Stefan resort, which usually charges an outrageous day-use fee for non-guests – is currently free to access.

Around the next headland is arguably the most beautiful beach in Montenegro – stunning Miločer, or King’s Beach – but this, too, belongs to the resort. Normally, non-guests are subject to a ridiculous day-use fee of €200 (US$229) – yet for now this beach is free to access, too. Even if the resort resumes its charges, the pinkish pebbly sands at the southern end of Sveti Stefan are free, and the water gets deep quickly here, making it perfect for swimming.

Planning tip: If you the atmosphere of Sveti Stefan without the five-star price tag, far humbler Drago is one of the coast’s best midrange hotels, boasting incredible terraces and one of the best restaurants in the region.

2. Mogren Beach, Budva

Best city beach

Located just two minutes from Budva’s Old Town yet far from the throngs of tourists thronging within its historic walls, Mogren Beach feels like a local’s well-kept secret. Tucked between cliffs, this beautiful, double-bayed stretch of pebble offers an oasis out of view from any buildings – a rare treat for the Budva Riviera. What’s more, those towering cliffs provide plenty of afternoon shade when the temperatures start to climb.

Planning tip: To reach Mogren Beach, head west along the shoreline path from Budva’s Ričardova Glava beach. You’ll pass one of the city’s most-photographed landmarks, a statue of the Budva Ballerina, perpetually posing en pointe (and unclothed), before finding Mogren around the next headland.

3. Dobreč Beach, Luštica Peninsula

Best beach for a day trip

Herceg Novi’s buzzy waterfront promenade has plenty of appeal. But for a proper swim with some space to spread out afterward, you’re better off catching a water taxi out to Dobreč, at the end of the Luštica Peninsula. This beach can only be reached by boat, which reduces the crowds to some extent (though the place is still justifiably popular). The water quality here at the mouth of the Bay of Kotor is excellent, and the Dobreč restaurant has all the goods to keep you satiated as you enjoy the beach. So make a full day of it.

4. Ploče Beach, Budva

Best beach for people-watching

Slovenska Plaža, Budva’s long but massively overdeveloped main beach, can be overwhelming in summer. When it all gets too much, take a 15-minute drive or a boat ride west along the shore to Ploče Beach, an isolated but extremely popular complex, complete with a restaurant and bar, swimming pools set into sunbathing terraces and inflatable water slides for the kids. There’s even a bar with tables positioned in knee-deep water. While the scene can get raucous, the greenery all around and captivating views, without an apartment block in sight, always help calm nerves.

Planning tip: In the summer season, boats depart for Ploče Beach from the Budva waterfront regularly. If you come by car, there’s plenty of free parking near the beach.

5. Drobni Pijesak Beach, Rijeka Reževići

Best hidden beach

Drobni Pijesak means “ground sand” – and this little cove has a 240m (787ft) stretch of the stuff, wedged in between green hills and aquamarine waters. The beach is hidden in plain sight just beneath the coastal highway, minutes north of Rijeka Reževići. There’s no town or village attached – just a sole beach bar and restaurant, only adding to the laid-back mood.

6. Presjeke Beach, Rijeka Reževići

Best beach for food

Just a 2km (1¼-mile) drive south from Drobni Pijesak you’ll find boulder-strewn Presjeke Beach, at the bottom of historic Paštrovići village. Take a moment to admire the traditional architecture: rows of terrace houses with stone walls, small windows, single-pitched roofs and “hog’s back” curved terracotta tiles. Then, follow the footpath that starts at the parking lot below the village church, heading down through the woods to boulder-strewn Presjeke Beach. It’s great for snorkeling (make sure to bring your own gear) and swimming in your own secluded spot.

Planning tip: Tucked away into the foliage, Beach Bar Balun (+382 069-285 652) is a can’t-miss stop. The restaurant draws in-the-know yachters, who drop anchor for a stupendous black risotto recipe from the owner’s great-great grandmother; pešikan, or smooth hound, a type of shark, soaked a day prior in milk (order a day in advance); chill tunes; and extraordinary views.

7. Queen’s Beach, Čanj

Beat unreachable-by-road beach 

Near the unassuming town of Bar, a series of far-less flashy beach villages (Čanj, Sutomore, Dobra Voda, Utjeha) buzz with budget-conscious Montenegrin and Serbian families in summertime. This more affordable stretch of coast manages to maintain a local feel, evoking a carefree, no-frills nostalgia – especially when compared to the glitz and glamour of Budva. Here, the area’s loveliest stretch of sand can only be reached by boat: pink-sanded Queen’s Beach (Kraljičina Plaža), just around the headland from Čanj. Food and facilities are available.

Planning tip: Catch a water taxi from the little jetty at the northwest end of Čanj Beach (around €3/US$3.43 per person). Arrive early to snag sun loungers and umbrellas, or bring your own.

8. Murići, Lake Skadar

Best lakeside beach

As an alternative to the Adriatic beaches, lakeside Murići is our pick of Montenegro’s inland beaches. It’s set on the southwestern shore of Lake Skadar, beneath the dramatic ridge of the Rumija mountain range. A steep road leads down to the village, providing access to the clear waters at the lake’s edge. It’s a scenic spot for a paddle: you’ll watch clouds of tiny fish darting through the underwater vegetation and following your feet as you splash about.

9. Ladies’ Beach, Ulcinj

Best ladies-only beach

Heading southeast from the sandy, perpetually crowded arc of sand at Mala Plaža in the center of Ulcinj, you’ll find a string of pretty little rocky coves, each with an accompanying beach bar. While some of these bars seem to be in competition to deafen clients with their dueling sound systems, Ladies’ Beach is unique in that it’s both quiet and a strictly women-only space. Though the high sulfur content of the water is said to boost fertility, women mainly come here to chill out – away from the gaze of men. (Can you blame them?) For the more religiously inclined women of this majority Muslim town, it’s a carefree place to relax.

Planning tip: Next door, Higo delivers one of Montenegro’s most elevated dining, amid an idyllic pine forest. Expect to savor creative dishes (mains €18–37 / US$21–42) like Wagyu beef, duck breast with caramelized cauliflower puree, and dry-aged fish.

10. Velika Plaža, Ulcinj

Best beach for kitesurfing

An impressive 12km-long (7½-long) expanse of sand just southeast of Ulcinj, Velika Plaža is one of Europe’s (and certainly Montenegro’s) longest beaches. (Its name actually translates to "Big Beach.”) The setting is indeed lovely, yet the water is too shallow for satisfying swimming – for anyone other than toddlers, that is, who love splashing about here. But these conditions make this beach perfect a choice spot for traditional fishermen, who wade through the water trawling fish into their nets – and for kitesurfers, too.

In summer, Belgrade scenesters descend on a set of cobbled-together beach bars at the southern end of the beach, each with an attached kitesurfing school.

Planning tip: If you want to go kitesurfing at Velika Plaža, book lessons or hire SUPs, windsurfing gear and/or small sailing catamarans. We recommend Dolcinium Kitesurf Club (lessons staring at €70/US$80 per hour) or Kiteloop (€380/US$434 for 10 hours of lessons).

11. Ada Bojana, Ulcinj

Best sandy beach

This 3km (2-mile) strip of sandy beach continues just across the Bojana River from where Velika Plaža ends, and continues to the Albanian border. And unlike Velika Plaža, the water here is deep enough for proper swimming.

Ada Bojana is actually a 1285-acre island sitting between two branches of the river, joined to the mainland by a bridge. During the Yugoslav era, it became one of the country’s most famous naturist resorts – a tradition that still exists to this day.

Planning tip: While most of the island is set aside for the clothing-averse, there’s a section of beach and a couple of Robinson Crusoe–style restaurants at the northern end that are open to those with more modest inclinations. We love family-run Konoba Kod Ranka and Ćićkova Čarda.