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Along the Río Paraná

The mighty Paraná, the continent’s second-longest river at 2485 miles (4000km), dominates the geography of Northeast Argentina. The cities along it have their town centers a sensible distance above the shorelines of this flood-prone monster, but have a costanera (riverbank) that’s the focus of much social life. The river is still important for trade, and large oceangoing vessels ply it to and beyond Rosario, the region's top urban destination.

The Paraná is the demesne of enormous river fish – including surubí, dorado and pacú – that attract sports fishers from around the world.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Along the Río Paraná.

  • See

    Costanera

    Rosario’s most attractive feature is its waterfront, where the area that was once derelict warehouses and train tracks has been reclaimed for the fun of the people. It stretches some 15km from its southern end at Parque Urquiza to the city’s northern edge, just short of the suspension bridge crossing into Entre Ríos province. It’s an appealing place to wander and watch what’s going on, from the plentiful birdlife and impromptu fútbol (soccer) games to massive cargo ships surging past on the river.

  • See

    Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes

    This gallery is worth a visit for its inventive displays of contemporary and 20th-century artworks from the MACRO collection, and its small collection of European works, which contains a couple of very fine pieces. Free guided tours at 5pm.

  • See

    Centro de Visitantes San Nicolás

    The visitors center has two hiking trails, the best of which is the Sendero Curupí, which winds through the bush for 2km and offers the chance to spot plenty of wildlife. The shorter Sendero La Cañada runs through grassland and is more monotonous. There's a nice expanse of green grass for pitching a tent and individual kiosks with barbecues and picnic tables as well as power outlets and decent toilet facilities.

  • See

    Paraná Delta

    Rosario sits on the banks of the Río Paraná upper delta, a 60km-wide area of mostly uninhabited, subtropical islands and winding riachos (streams). It’s rich in bird and animal life, and even the closest islands feel miles from anywhere, though you can see the city’s buildings looming close at hand. Various boat services and tours reach the islands and/or explore the delta. From Estación Fluvial, boats run weekends from mid-September to May and daily from December to February across to the island beaches at the Banquito de San Andrés (AR$130 return).

  • See

    Costanera Sur

    The grassy zone below downtown includes plenty of space for jogging and courting, as well as the Estación Fluvial building, where you can find eating and drinking options and operators offering boat trips. Heading further north, you pass various cultural venues before reaching Parque de España and its mausoleum-like edifice. Beyond here is a zone of bars and restaurants that gets lively at weekends, and then the city's contemporary-art museum.

  • See

    Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Rosario

    Housed in a brightly painted grain silo on the waterfront, this museum is part of Rosario’s impressive riverbank renewal. It features temporary exhibitions, mostly by young local artists, and of varying quality, housed in small galleries spread over eight floors. There’s a good view of river islands from the mirador (viewpoint) at the top and an attractive cafe-bar by the river. At 5pm daily there are free guided tours in Spanish.

  • See

    Monumento Nacional a La Bandera

    Manuel Belgrano, who designed the Argentine flag, rests in a crypt beneath this colossal stone obelisk, built where the blue-and-white stripes were first raised. Even if rampant nationalism isn’t your thing, it’s worth taking the elevator to the top for great views over the waterfront, Paraná and islands. The attractive colonnade houses an eternal flame commemorating those who died for the fatherland.

  • See

    Museo Histórico Provincial

    The well-presented collection features plenty of post-independence exhibits plus excellent displays on indigenous cultures from many parts of Latin America. Particularly interesting is the collection of baroque religious art from the southern Andes. Information is in Spanish only. It's closed when Newell's Old Boys are playing at home in the adjacent stadium.

  • See

    Museo de la Memoria

    A former army HQ, not far from where police held, tortured and killed people during the Dirty War, this museum seeks to remember the violence and victims. If you can read Spanish, you'll find it's a small but very moving display, with witness descriptions, photos of the 'Disappeared' and an attempt to look at the wider history of man's inhumanity. There are temporary exhibitions upstairs.