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The mighty Paraná, the continent’s second-longest river at 2485 miles (4000km), dominates the geography of Northeast Argentina. The cities along it have their town centers a sensible distance above the shorelines of this flood-prone monster, but have a costanera (riverbank) that’s the focus of much social life. The river is still important for trade, and large oceangoing vessels ply it to and beyond Rosario, the region's top urban destination.
The Paraná is the demesne of enormous river fish – including surubí, dorado and pacú – that attract sports fishers from around the world.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Along the Río Paraná.
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Santa Fe's principal historical landmark is this Franciscan monastery and museum, built in 1680. While the museum is mediocre, the church is beautiful, with an exquisite wooden ceiling. The lovely cloister has a real colonial feel and is full of birdsong and the perfume of flowers. The monastery is still home to a handful of monks.
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Rosario’s most attractive feature is its waterfront, where the area that was once derelict warehouses and train tracks has been reclaimed for the fun of the people. It stretches some 15km from its southern end at Parque Urquiza to the city’s northern edge, just short of the suspension bridge crossing into Entre Ríos province. It’s an appealing place to wander and watch what’s going on, from the plentiful birdlife and impromptu fútbol (soccer) games to massive cargo ships surging past on the river.
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The visitors center has two hiking trails, the best of which is the Sendero Curupí, which winds through the bush for 2km and offers the chance to spot plenty of wildlife. The shorter Sendero La Cañada runs through grassland and is more monotonous. There's a nice expanse of green grass for pitching a tent and individual kiosks with barbecues and picnic tables as well as power outlets and decent toilet facilities.
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Less well known than neighboring Parque Esteros del Iberá, this compact national park contains more than 100 small lakes and boasts thriving communities of deer, capybaras and caimans in addition to a phenomenal array of birdlife. While the wildlife is similar to Los Esteros, the landscapes here are more varied with more forest cover.
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Set beside the Río San Javier, these atmospheric ruins are well worth a visit. The river has eroded away a good portion of them and there’s ongoing archaeological excavation, but the most fascinating find by far has been the Iglesia de San Francisco. The Spanish and mestizo inhabitants of old Santa Fe were buried directly beneath the earth-floored church, and nearly 100 graves have been excavated. The skeletons have now been replaced by replicas, but it's still a spooky, atmospheric place.
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Rosario sits on the banks of the Río Paraná upper delta, a 60km-wide area of mostly uninhabited, subtropical islands and winding riachos (streams). It’s rich in bird and animal life, and even the closest islands feel miles from anywhere, though you can see the city’s buildings looming close at hand. Various boat services and tours reach the islands and/or explore the delta.
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This intriguing museum in a converted colonial house has small displays of fine traditional artesanía (handicrafts) plus a good shop, but the highlight is watching students being taught to work leather, silver, bone and wood by master craftspeople. Other rooms around the courtyard are occupied by working artisans who will sell to you directly. Museum guides are enthusiastic, knowledgeable and friendly.
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The grassy zone below downtown includes plenty of space for jogging and courting, as well as the Estación Fluvial building, where you can find eating and drinking options and operators offering boat trips. Heading further north, you pass various cultural venues before reaching Parque de España and its mausoleum-like edifice. Beyond here is a zone of bars and restaurants that gets lively at weekends, and then the city's contemporary-art museum.
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The center of colonial Santa Fe is a peaceful square framed by fine buildings. The vast Casa de Gobierno was built in 1909 and replaced the demolished cabildo (town council building), seat of the 1852 constitutional assembly. On the square’s east side, the exterior simplicity of the Jesuit Iglesia de la Compañía masks an ornate interior. The cathedral is a little underwhelming by comparison, and dates from the mid-18th century.