Penghu (澎湖; Pénghú), once known as the Pescadores, is an archipelago of islands known for surf, sea, sand and sunshine. It's not so hot on must-see sights, though a preponderance of colourful temples feature preposterously ornate dragon-topped roofs with swallowtail eaves.
In the balmy summer months, Penghu attracts sun-worshippers and island-hoppers. However, in winter and spring this is one of the windiest places in the northern hemisphere, becoming a magnet for international wind- and kite-surfers.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Penghu Islands.
Beach
Jibei Sand TailThose desert island paradise photos you probably saw on Penghu's promotion brochures and websites were most likely taken at Jibei Sand Tail, a dazzling spit of sand and shells lapped by shallow turquoise waters. Amazingly, outside peak season you can often have it entirely to yourself, just like the pictures show. It's at Jibei island's southwest corner, only a 20-minute walk from the ferry port.
Taoist Temple
Tianhou TempleThis celebrated 17th-century Matsu temple sports high, sweeping swallowtail eaves and a wealth of gorgeous Chaozhou-style woodcarvings, mostly from a 1922 restoration.
Aquarium
Penghu AquariumThis large, family-friendly experience is home to an engrossing collection of living sea life, from a rescued three-legged turtle and magical family of jellyfish to three types of ray that glide above as you walk through a glass tunnel.
Museum
Penghu Living MuseumThis large modern museum offers an excellent introduction to Penghu's history, culture and changing lifestyles. Memorable features include the explanation of stone weirs, the large 1:30 scale model of Huazhai and the almost full-size junk boat.
Village
Erkan Old ResidencesPenghu's only really 'complete' traditional village, low-slung Erkan oozes charm and is appealingly set on a grassy plateau raised above the sea. Virtually all of the 50 or so homes have round-ridged, red-tile roofs and coral stone walls that look polka-dotted where irregularities peep through the whitewash.
Landmark
Twin Hearts Stone WeirPenghu's most photographed icon is a double hoop of stone walls linked to breakwaters in an ocean bay. Built with narrow openings, they were designed to trap fish and leave them floundering as the tide went out. Now, however, the weir's heart shape has made it a symbol of romance, and for visiting couples, taking a selfie from the clifftop high above is often the whole point of a trip to Chimei.
Cave
Fengkuei Cave & Youfu PavilionAt the southernmost tip of Fengkuei is Fengkuei Cave, where strong waves create long rectangular spaces under the coastal basalt. When the tide rises, seawater rushes into the hollow, compressing the air and blasting water out noisily from the crevices in the rocks: hence the Chinese name Fenggui (風櫃) meaning 'bellows'.
Park
Guanyinting ParkCome to this relaxing park for one of Magong's most quintessential experiences: watching the gilded sunset colours spreading across the sea, framed by the 200ft-long Rainbow Bridge. The indulgently over-engineered bridge loops across the mouth of a small bay to link up two coastal walkways. And yes, it really does turn rainbow colours at night thanks to fancy illumination... At least when the lamps are working.
Village
Huazhai Traditional DwellingsIn the west coast fishing village of Zhongshe, over 130 small, traditional houses survive, most tightly packed in two photogenic huddles. Made of local basalt and coral stone, many are in ruins but ongoing restoration has revived a proportion of them and the dwellings are starting to attract small businesses and artists without yet being overly touristed.