Pamplona’s main cathedral stands on a rise just inside the city ramparts amid a dark thicket of narrow streets. The cathedral is a late-medieval Gothic gem spoiled only by its rather dull neoclassical facade, an 18th-century appendage. The vast interior reveals some fine artefacts, including a silver-plated Virgin and the splendid 15th-century tomb of Carlos III of Navarra and his wife Doña Leonor. The real joy is the Gothic cloister, where there is marvellous delicacy in the stonework.
The cathedral tour (which can be conducted in English or French with advance notice) is fascinating. You're taken into the cathedral itself and, if you're on a morning tour, up the bell tower to see (and possibly hear) the second-largest church bell in Spain. You also visit the cloisters and a small museum, which displays religious treasures, the remaining walls of a Roman-era house recently discovered under the cathedral during restoration work, and the tiny skeleton of a seven-month-old baby found inside the house. The museum then turns decidedly pop-art with dramatic lighting, theatre drapes and a room full of virgins! The cathedral itself is open daily for free access outside the above stated hours, but you can’t access the cloisters or museum.