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Lottie Davies

Navarra

Several Spains intersect in Navarra (Nafarroa in Basque). The soft greens and bracing climate of the Navarran Pyrenees lie like a cool compress across the sun-struck brow of the south, which is all stark plains, cereal crops and vineyards, sliced by high sierras with cockscombs of raw limestone. Navarra is also pilgrim territory: for centuries the faithful have used the pass at Roncesvalles to cross from France on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Navarra was historically the heartland of the Basques, but dynastic struggles and trimming due to reactionary politics, including Francoism, have left it a semi-autonomous province, with the north being Basque by nature and the south leaning towards Castilian Spain.

The Navarran capital, Pamplona, tends to grab the headlines with its world-famous running of the bulls, but the region’s real charm is in its spectacularly diverse landscapes and its picturesque small towns and villages.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Navarra.

  • See

    Catedral de Santa María

    Pamplona’s cathedral stands on a rise just inside the city ramparts amid a dark thicket of narrow streets. The cathedral is a late-medieval Gothic gem with an an 18th-century neoclassical facade. Artefacts in the vast interior include a silver-plated Virgin and the splendid 15th-century tomb of Carlos III of Navarra and his wife Doña Leonor. The real joy is the Gothic cloister with delicate stonework. Admission includes a guided tour (English available with advance notice).

  • See

    Palacio Real

    Carlos III is to thank for the exceptional Palacio Real, which towers over the village. Back in Carlos’ day (early 15th century), the castle's inhabitants included not just royalty but lions and other exotic pets, as well as Babylon-inspired hanging gardens. Today, the restored castle makes a wonderfully atmospheric place to wander. To help bring the past to life, take a guided tour (in Spanish), or explore with a multilingual audio guide (€2). Prebook tickets at peak times to guarantee access.

  • See

    Museo de Navarra

    Housed in a former medieval hospital, this superb museum has an eclectic collection of archaeological finds (including a number of fantastic Roman mosaics unearthed mainly in southern Navarra) and art, including Goya’s Marqués de San Adrián. Labelling is in Spanish only, but foreign translation leaflets are available.

  • See

    Ciudadela

    The walls and bulwarks of the grand fortified citadel, the star-shaped Ciudadela, were built between 1571 and 1645 under the direction of King Felipe II. They're considered one of the best examples of military architecture from the Spanish Renaissance. The former moats and bastions have become a setting for artists to display their works in the evenings from 6pm to 8.30pm Tuesday to Friday, noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8.30pm Saturday, and noon to 2pm Sunday.

  • See

    Fundación-Museo Jorge Oteiza

    Around 9km northeast of Pamplona in the town of Alzuza, this impressive museum contains almost hundreds of impressive works by the renowned Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza. As well as his workshop, this beautifully designed gallery incorporates the artist’s former home in a lovely rural setting.

  • See

    Villa Romana de las Musas

    The good people of Navarra have appreciated the gift of grapes for a very long time, and this magnificent Roman-era nobleman's villa, which dates from between the 1st and 5th centuries, was used to produce wine. Various huge clay wine storage vessels are on display, and there are some impressive mosaics (some are reproductions). The site is 6km south of Arellano village and sits in the heart of what is still wine-producing country.

  • See

    Santa María de Eunate

    Surrounded by cornfields and brushed by wild flowers, the near-perfect octagonal Romanesque Santa María de Eunate, 5km east of Puente la Reina, is one of the most picturesque chapels along the whole Camino. Dating from the 12th century, its origins – and the reason why it's located in the middle of nowhere – are something of a mystery.

  • See

    Monasterio de San Salvador de Leyre

    In the shadow of the Sierra de Leyre, this historic complex is packed with architectural treasures. Highlights include an 11th-century crypt containing the remains of the first kings of Navarra, and the striking Porta Speciosa, a 12th-century portico. Both are remarkable examples of Romanesque artistry. Trails lace through the woodlands above the monastery, offering fine views overlooking the Yesa reservoir in the distance.

  • See

    Ciudad Romana de Andelos

    The Roman town of Andelos is battered, but its remote and peaceful setting gives it a special romance. The town, which reached its peak between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, is divided into three: the main town, a water reservoir about 300m away from the town, and the tumbledown walls of a dam about 3km from the main site.