Subscribe

Lottie Davies

Navarra

Several Spains intersect in Navarra (Nafarroa in Basque). The soft greens and bracing climate of the Navarran Pyrenees lie like a cool compress across the sun-struck brow of the south, which is all stark plains, cereal crops and vineyards, sliced by high sierras with cockscombs of raw limestone. Navarra is also pilgrim territory: for centuries the faithful have used the pass at Roncesvalles to cross from France on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Navarra was historically the heartland of the Basques, but dynastic struggles and trimming due to reactionary politics, including Francoism, have left it a semi-autonomous province, with the north being Basque by nature and the south leaning towards Castilian Spain.

The Navarran capital, Pamplona, tends to grab the headlines with its world-famous running of the bulls, but the region’s real charm is in its spectacularly diverse landscapes and its picturesque small towns and villages.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Navarra.

  • See

    Palacio Real

    Carlos III is to thank for the exceptional Palacio Real, which towers over the village. Back in Carlos’ day (early 15th century), the castle's inhabitants included not just royalty but lions and other exotic pets, as well as Babylon-inspired hanging gardens. Today, the restored castle makes a wonderfully atmospheric place to wander. To help bring the past to life, take a guided tour (in Spanish), or explore with a multilingual audio guide (€2). Prebook tickets at peak times to guarantee access. You can clamber up scenic watchtowers, wander through once richly gilded halls, and stroll the ramparts, all while imagining the jousts, bullfights and even pelota games held back in medieval times. Integrated into the castle is the Iglesia de Santa María la Real, which has a superbly detailed Gothic portal.

  • See

    Museo de Navarra

    Housed in a former medieval hospital, this superb museum has an eclectic collection of archaeological finds (including a number of fantastic Roman mosaics unearthed mainly in southern Navarra) and art, including Goya’s Marqués de San Adrián. Labelling is in Spanish only, but foreign translation leaflets are available. Other highlights include a limestone block with Paleolithic rock carvings depicting a herd of ibex in linear perspective, figure-covered Romanesque capitals from the 12th century and richly executed murals from the Gothic period.

  • See

    Catedral de Santa María

    Pamplona’s cathedral stands on a rise just inside the city ramparts amid a dark thicket of narrow streets. The cathedral is a late-medieval Gothic gem with an an 18th-century neoclassical facade. Artefacts in the vast interior include a silver-plated Virgin and the splendid 15th-century tomb of Carlos III of Navarra and his wife Doña Leonor. The real joy is the Gothic cloister with delicate stonework. Admission includes a guided tour (English available with advance notice). Fascinating tours take you into the cathedral and, if you're on the 11.15am tour, up the bell tower to see (and possibly hear) the second-largest church bell in Spain. You also visit the cloisters and a small museum, which displays religious treasures, the remaining walls of a Roman-era house discovered under the cathedral during restoration work and the tiny skeleton of a seven-month-old baby found inside the house. The cathedral itself is open daily for free access outside the stated hours, but you can’t access the cloisters or museum.

  • See

    Ciudadela

    The walls and bulwarks of the grand fortified citadel, the star-shaped Ciudadela, were built between 1571 and 1645 under the direction of King Felipe II. They're considered one of the best examples of military architecture from the Spanish Renaissance. The former moats and bastions have become a setting for artists to display their works in the evenings from 6pm to 8.30pm Tuesday to Friday, noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8.30pm Saturday, and noon to 2pm Sunday.

  • See

    Santa María de Eunate

    Surrounded by cornfields and brushed by wild flowers, the near-perfect octagonal Romanesque Santa María de Eunate, 5km east of Puente la Reina, is one of the most picturesque chapels along the whole Camino. Dating from the 12th century, its origins – and the reason why it's located in the middle of nowhere – are something of a mystery.

  • See

    Parque Natural de las Bárdenas Reales

    Established as a natural park in 1999 and as a UN Biosphere Reserve in 2000, the Bárdenas Reales is a desiccated landscape of blank tabletop hills, open gravel plains and snakelike gorges covering over 410 sq km of southeastern Navarra. As well as spectacular scenery, the park plays host to numerous birds and animals, including the great bustard, golden eagles, Egyptian and griffon vultures, numerous reptiles, mountain cats and wild boar. A visitor centre gives out information on park highlights.

  • See

    Museo de la Viña y el Vino de Navarra

    This comprehensive museum takes visitors on a fascinating journey through wine and wine culture. Over three floors, English signage and interactive displays reveal the grape in all its complexity, from the soils and grape varieties found in Navarra to old-fashioned harvesting techniques. There's also a case of scents (animal, spices, wood, etc) where you can breathe in elements found in many wines. Best of all is the glass of wine waiting for you at the end – free with admission.

  • See

    Castillo de Javier

    This 10th-century castle, strategically located on the border between the kingdoms of Navarra and Aragón, is Javier's main attraction. Inside, there's a small museum dedicated to the life of San Francisco Xavier, the patron saint of Navarra, who was born here in 1506. Xavier spent much of his life travelling, preaching, teaching and healing in Asia. Today his body lies in a miraculous state of preservation in a cathedral in Goa, India.

  • See

    Bodegas Irache

    Though this winery dates from 1891, the vineyards here have been providing wine to the royal families of Navarra since the 12th century. By calling ahead, you can arrange a winery tour and tasting (€15), held at noon from Monday to Saturday by reservation. The big draw is the outdoor wine fountain – a free-flowing tap of wine from which you can fill your cask. Go early, as only 100L are released per day.