Twenty kilometres southwest of Ronda la Vieja are some of Andalucía’s most ancient and fascinating caves. Torchlit guided tours into the dark belly of the cave system reveal Stone Age paintings of horses, goats and fish from 20,000 to 25,000 years ago. Beautiful stalactites and stalagmites add to the effect. The tours are given by English-speaking members of the Bullón family, whose great-great-grandfather discovered the paintings in 1905.
The fact that the caves are so uncommercial is a real plus. Although the family is finding the upkeep a battle, they are loathe to give in to pressure from the local authorities to turn the caves over to its administration.
Benaoján village is the nearest you can get to the Cueva de la Pileta by public transport. The caves are 4km south of the village, about 250m off the Benaoján–Cortes de la Frontera road; you'll need your own transport from the village, or you can walk. The turn-off is signposted. Benaoján is served by two Los Amarillos buses (from Monday to Friday) and up to four daily trains to/from Ronda. Walking trails link Benaoján with Ronda and villages in the Guadiaro Valley.