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Slovakia
Right in the heart of Europe, Slovakia is a land of castles and mountains, occasionally punctuated by industrial sprawl. More than a quarter-century after Czechoslovakia's break-up, Slovakia has emerged as a self-assured, independent nation. Capital city Bratislava draws visitors to its resplendent old town and tankard-clanking drinking culture. But Slovakia shines brightest for lovers of the outdoors. Walking trails in the High Tatras wend through landscapes of unearthly beauty, with mirror-still glacier lakes backed by 2000m peaks.
Almost an alternate realm, Slovakia's less-visited east is speckled with quaint churches. Within its national parks are landscapes battle-scarred by the clash of river and stone. Beyond eastern metropolis Košice, a boutique charmer of a city, the Tokaj wine region unfurls across thinly populated countryside.
Despite a storied history and varied topography, Slovakia is small. For visitors, that can mean fortresses, hiking and beer-sloshing merriment – all in the space of a long weekend.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Slovakia.
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Spiš Castle
Crowning a travertine hill above Spišské Podhradie village, this vast, Unesco-listed fortification is one of Central Europe's biggest castle complexes. Its bulwarks and thick defensive walls date to the 12th century (at the latest), and once guarded Hungarian royals and nobles from flying arrows. Highlights of the four-hectare site, connected by stony pathways and stairs, include views from the 22m-high tower, and a museum of medieval history within the former palace. The castle collapsed in the 12th century and was remade soon after. A Gothic renovation during the second half of the 15th century, under the nobleman Štefan Zápoľský, paved the way for prestigious courtly life. As the threat of invasion lessened, Spiš Castle became a place for balls and upper-class hobnobbing, and much less of a strategic fortification. Details like the castle's Gothic-style windows are an example of harmony between defensive and decorative design. After a fire in 1780, the castle began to fall to ruin. Restoration began in earnest during the 1970s, propelling Spiš Castle to fame. Included on Unesco's World Heritage list in 1993, today it is one of Slovakia's most popular attractions. Audio-guide tours (included in the ticket price, deposit €10) take roughly 90 minutes. In summer there are regular night tours of the castle (adult/student/child €10/8/8). Spiš Castle is 1km east of Spišské Podhradie, off the D1 highway or about an hour's uphill hike from the village. From the (free) car park, there is a steep 10-minute walk to the castle entrance.
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Slovenský Raj National Park
Slovenský Raj's rocky plateaus, primeval forests and interlacing streams form some of Slovakia's most picturesque hiking terrain. Treks often involve scaling metal ladders or balancing on footbridges above waterfalls. For some, the ice-cold slap of river water is reward enough; for the rest of us, it's the views: cliffs giving way to forests and fog-filled valleys, and soft meadows. Trails are challenging but well-marked, and information centres offer multilingual advice. If visiting outside July-to-August high season, read up in advance. Within Slovenský Raj's dramatic karst bedrock are more than 500 caves, while its meadows are a habitat for rare orchid species. More than 90% of the park is forested, and European honey buzzards, golden eagles and 2000 butterfly species fly through. The park has 300km of walking trails. One of the loveliest (and most popular) routes from Podlesok is the two- to four-hour ascent up the dramatic, ladder- and technical-assist Suchá Belá Gorge, then east to Kláštorisko Chata, where you'll find a reconstructed 13th-century Carthusian monastery, on yellow then red trails. From there, take the blue trail down to the Hornád River, then follow the river gorge upstream to return to Podlesok. Start at 8am or 9am on popular trails: in high summer, it's common to queue for the ladders later in the day. From Čingov a green trail leads up Hornád River Gorge an hour to Tomašovský výhľad, a 146m-high rocky outcropping and overlook; a good short-hike destination. Or continue to the green, one-way, technically aided Kláštorisko Gorge trail (five hours). You can also reach the Kláštorisko Gorge ascent from Podlesok (two hours). There is accommodation available at Kláštorisko Chata. One of the shortest, dramatic, technical-assist hikes starts at Biele Vody (15 minutes northeast of Dedinky via the red trail) and follows the green trail up Zejmarská Gorge. The physically fit can clamber up in 50 minutes. To get back, you can follow the green trail down to Dedinky, or there's a chairlift that works sporadically.
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Hlavné Námestie
The nucleus for Bratislava's history, festivals and chic cafe culture is Hlavné nám (Main Sq). There's architectural finery in almost every direction, notably the Stará Radnica (Old Town Hall), a complex of attractive 14th- and 15th-century Gothic buildings, and Palugyayov Palác, a neobaroque former palace. Roland's Fountain, at the square's heart, is thought to have been built in 1572 as a public water supply. According to legend, its statue bows once a year...visible only to the most good-hearted Bratislavans, of course.
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Blue Church
Dedicated to St Elisabeth of Hungary in 1913, the early-20th-century 'Blue Church' is a vision in sapphire and powder-blue. From its undulating arches and ceramic roof tiles to the tip of its clock tower (36.8m), it's a marvel of art nouveau design. During the limited opening hours, you can step inside to see the baby-blue pews and gold decoration.
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Museum of the Slovak Village
This picturesque recreated village – Slovakia's largest skanzen (open-air museum) – showcases over 120 faithfully reconstructed 19th-century dwellings in a bucolic location, 2km south of central Martin. Wander between timber buildings (a few have richly dressed interiors) and learn how to discern an Oravian farmhouse from a Turiec-style hut; the ticket desk loans information booklets in various languages. Entry to the wooden church and Museum of Roma Culture is by timed tour (hours are posted around the site, no extra charge). The on-site Museum of Roma Culture is the only one of its kind in Slovakia. It exhibits traditional musical instruments and features displays about Roma culture, periods of oppression endured by Roma communities and prominent Slovak Roma people. Information is in Slovak but guides can explain the exhibition and printed English-language information is available. There's also a krčma (village pub) serving refreshments and a souvenir shop selling handicrafts; you could easily spend a full day here. Take local bus 10 from the main train station to the last stop and walk the remaining 1km up through the forest.
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Vrátna Valley
Limestone pinnacles and thick forest conspire to make Vrátna Valley one of Slovakia's most majestic areas to hike or ski. A scenic road winds south from Terchová up through craggy Tiesňavy Gorge, past picnic sites and roadside lookouts, to Vratna Výt'ah cable-car station. It hauls you to Snilovské saddle (1524m) below two peaks, Chleb (1647m) and Velký Kriváň (1709m). Both peaks are popular hikes, each taking 1½ to two hours (return). For a long, tough trek, hike northeast from Chleb over Hromové (1636m), Poludňový grúň (1460m) and Stoh (1608m) to Medziholie saddle (1185m), which takes about 5½ hours (one way). From there you can descend on the green trail to Štefanová village where there's a bus stop, accommodation and restaurants.
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Cathedral of St Elizabeth
This 14th-century cathedral dominates Košice's main square, its gables bristling above tall, stained-glass windows while colourful roof tiles evoke a resplendent scaled dragon. One of Europe's easternmost Gothic cathedrals, 60m-long St Elizabeth is the largest in the country. Ascend 160 stone steps up the narrow stairwell of 59.7m-tall Sigisimund Tower to peep out across the city. Below the church, a crypt contains the tomb of Duke Ferenc Rákóczi, who was exiled to Turkey after the failed 18th-century Hungarian revolt against Austria. In summer, guided tours illuminate the history behind various features of the church, as well as entering the oft-closed St Michael's Chapel outside.
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Museum of City History
Rove through Bratislava's past in the former town hall. First, scale the tower for a lookout over Bratislava. Then tour the exhibition rooms; loveliest of all, despite the dreary name, is the Hall of the Extended Municipal Council and the Court House, with brightly coloured ceilings, Gothic flourishes and stained glass dating to the 17th century. Spare some time at the end for the Viticulture Museum beneath, where you can sample regional wines with a lively explanation (from €5). You'll also see religious art and saintly bones, moodily lit in the vaulted chambers. There's a joint ticket (adult/child €6/3) that also allows a visit to the Period Rooms Museum.
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Tokaj Macik
Set among expansive vineyards and pastures, Macik winery is a delightful place to experience the region's famous Tokaj wine. A little advance notice is all that's required to taste between six and 13 varieties at the family-run winery, just an hour's drive southeast of Košice; the highlight is touring warren-like wine cellars, blackened with dark mould – its growth is encouraged, to keep the humidity just right. There's a gorgeous, greenery-draped terrace to linger on and (of course) a shop to buy takeaway bottles of Tokaj. Ask about guest rooms (doubles from €58) if no one wants to be the designated driver.
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