Serbia
Diverse, welcoming and a hell of a lot of fun – everything you never heard about Serbia is true. Best of all, this landlocked country in the heart of the Balkans is still delightfully off the tourist trail. While the feisty Serbian spirit is embodied in Belgrade’s world-class nightlife and Novi Sad’s epic EXIT Festival, look beyond these historic metropolises and you’ll discover a crucible of cultures and unsullied outdoors ripe for exploration.
The art nouveau town of Subotica revels in its Austro-Hungarian heritage, bohemian Niš echoes to the clip-clop of Roma horse carts, and minaret-studded Novi Pazar nudges the most sacred of Serbian Orthodox monasteries. Established wine regions and thermal spas cradled in rolling hills date back to Roman times. On the slopes of Kopaonik, Zlatibor and Stara Planina, ancient traditions coexist with après-ski bling, while super-scenic Tara and Đerdap National Parks brim with hiking, biking, rafting and kayaking opportunities.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Serbia.
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Belgrade Fortress
Some 115 battles have been fought over imposing, impressive Belgrade Fortress (aka Kalemegdan); the citadel was destroyed more than 40 times throughout the centuries. Fortifications began in Celtic times, and the Romans extended it onto the flood plains during the settlement of 'Singidunum', Belgrade's Roman name. Much of what stands today is the product of 18th-century Austro-Hungarian and Turkish reconstructions. The fort's bloody history, discernible despite today's jolly cafes and funfairs, only makes the fortress all the more fascinating. Entering from Knez Mihailova and passing through Kalemegdan Park, you first reach the Upper Town whose attractions include the Military Museum, Clock Tower, Damad Ali-Paša's Turbeh, Roman Well and Victor Monument. In the Lower Town, which slopes down towards the river, look out for the Big Gunpowder Magazine, Ružica and Sveta Petka Churches, Old Turkish Bath (Hamam) and Nebojša Tower. Audio guides in six languages with a map (300RSD; plus ID as deposit) are available from the souvenir shop within the Inner Stambol Gate, which is also where you must purchase tickets for the Clock Tower, Roman Well and Big Gunpowder Magazine.
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Petrovaradin Fortress
Towering over the river on a 40m-high volcanic slab, this mighty citadel, considered Europe's second-biggest fortress (and one of its best preserved), is aptly nicknamed 'Gibraltar on the Danube'. Constructed using slave labour between 1692 and 1780, its dungeons have held notable prisoners including Karađorđe (leader of the first Serbian uprising against the Turks and founder of a royal dynasty) and Yugoslav president Tito. Have a good gawk at the iconic clock tower: the size of the minute and hour hands are reversed so far-flung fisherfolk can tell the time. Within the citadel walls, a museum offers insight into the site's history; it can also arrange tours (in English; 3500RSD) of Petrovaradin's 16km of creepy, but cool, unlit underground tunnels (katakombe). Petrovaradin hosts Novi Sad's wildly popular EXIT Festival each July.
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Museum of Yugoslavia
This must-visit museum houses an invaluable collection of more than 200,000 artefacts representing the fascinating, tumultuous history of Yugoslavia. Photographs, artworks, historical documents, films, weapons, priceless treasure: it's all here. It can be a lot to take in; English-speaking guides are available if booked in advance via email, or you can join a free tour on weekends (11am in English, Serbian at noon). Marshal Tito's Mausoleum is also on the museum grounds; admission is included in the ticket price. The museum's main building, known as the May 25 Museum, has undergone extensive renovations, and should have reopened the the time you read this. Take trolleybus 40 or 41 at the south end of Parliament on Kneza Miloša; ask the driver to let you out at Kuća Cveća.
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Gallery of Matica Srpska
First established in Pest (part of modern Budapest) in 1826 and moved to Novi Sad in 1864, this is one of Serbia's most important and long-standing cultural institutions. It's not a mere gallery but rather a national treasure, with three floors covering priceless Serbian artworks from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries in styles ranging from Byzantine to modernist, with countless icons, portraits, landscapes and graphic art (and more) in between. It often hosts interesting temporary exhibitions as well; see the website for upcoming events. On Fridays at 6pm, the museum offers expert interpretative tours (in Serbian; 1000RSD) of the permanent collection and/or current exhibition. For English or Italian, arrange one week in advance.
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Mt Avala
Looming over Belgrade and topped with the tallest tower in the Balkans (204.5m), Mt Avala is a city landmark that makes for a pleasant break from the capital's bustling streets. The broadcasting tower, originally completed in 1965 but levelled by NATO bombs in 1999, was rebuilt in 2010 and now offers picture-perfect panoramas over Belgrade and beyond from viewing platforms and a cafe. Nearby, the Monument to the Unknown Hero by Ivan Meštrović honours Serbian victims of WWI. Mt Avala is 16km from the city centre; on weekends in summer, bus 400 runs to the top of Avala from the Voždovac stop.
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Museum of Contemporary Art
One of Belgrade's top cultural sights, this recently renovated museum is a treasure trove of 20th-century art from the ex-Yugoslav cultural space. The 1960s concrete-and-glass modernist building, surrounded by a sculpture park, has great views towards the Belgrade Fortress across the Sava River. Conceptual art features prominently, including a 1970s video called Freeing the Memory from the region's most famous artist (and Belgrade native), Marina Abramović. One section is dedicated to the 1920s Yugoslav avant-garde magazine Zenit and the Zenitism art movement associated with it.
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Marshal Tito's Mausoleum
A visit to Tito's mausoleum is obligatory. The big man rests in an aptly gigantic tomb in peaceful surrounds. Also on display are thousands of elaborate relay batons presented to him by young 'Pioneers', plus gifts from political leaders and the voguish set of the era. The mausoleum is attached to the fascinating Museum of Yugoslavia. Take trolleybus 40 or 41 at the south end of Parliament on Kneza Miloša. It's the second stop after turning into Bul Mira: ask the driver to let you out at Kuća Cveća.
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Sopoćani Monastery
Built around 1265 by King Stefan Uroš I (who is buried here), this Unesco-listed monastery was destroyed by the Turks in 1689 and restored in 1926. Frescoes inside the Romanesque church are prime examples of medieval art; the Assumption of the Virgin Mary fresco is one of Serbia's most renowned. The monastery is 14km west of town. There are three daily buses from the bus station (110RSD, 30 minutes); the return times allow for about an hour at the monastery.
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Synagogue
Subotica's first art nouveau building is the splendid 1902 synagogue designed by Marcell Komor and Deszö Jakab. Its stylised decorations in the form of tulips and peacock feathers are typical of the Hungarian Secession style; it also features stained-glass windows from Miksa Róth's studio and roof tiles made of Zsolnay ceramics. The synagogue was restored to its full glory inside and out in 2018.
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