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Glasgow

Disarmingly blending sophistication and earthiness, Scotland's biggest city has evolved over the last couple of decades to become one of Britain's most intriguing metropolises.

Architecture

Glasgow's principal architectural legacy is its impressive assemblage of stately Victorian mansions and public buildings, the product of wealth generated from manufacturing and trade. It gives the centre a solid, slightly staid dignity that is actually rather misleading. More svelte are the sublime designs of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, which dot the city; visiting a few of his buildings and interiors soon reveals his genius. The city – always proud of its working-class background – also innovatively displays its industrial heritage, while modern structures, many along the Clyde River, have quickly become local icons.

Museums and Galleries

Collecting was big in Victorian times, so it's no surprise that Glasgow's architectural legacy from the period is complemented by some wonderful museums and galleries. Kelvingrove combines natural history and diverse objects from around the world with a first-rate art collection, while nearby Kelvin Hall will hold, from 2020, the University of Glasgow's eclectic Hunterian museum exhibits, paintings and sumptuous Mackintosh interior. On the Clyde, the Riverside holds an excellent ensemble of historic vehicles; to the south, the Burrell Collection (due to reopen in 2020) is an extraordinary corpus of archaeological treasures, objets d'art from around the world and fine paintings.

Nightlife

Glaswegians definitely work to live, and the city comes into its own after five – not that people don't pop down for a cheeky lunchtime pint, too. The city's pubs are gloriously friendly places and you're sure to have some entertaining blethers (chats) with locals when you pop into one. Glasgow's live music scene is also legendary; big bands play at iconic venues, but a number of lower-key pubs have regular gigs that are excellent too. Clubbing is also popular, with a couple of famous dance floors, and the LGBT-focused Pink Triangle is a notably friendly scene.

Shopping

Glasgow is where Scotland shops; the city packs out at weekends when highlanders, islanders, Edinburghers and more come in to cruise the malls. The downtown area has several major shopping centres and arcades fully stocked with global brands as well as more local offerings. On the fringes of this area and in the West End are the bohemian beats: record stores, vintage clothing markets and second-hand booksellers. In the East End, the weekend Barras market is quite an experience, blending modern concepts with cheap designer ripoffs, faded bric-a-brac and a dose of authentic working-class Glasgow.

Must see in
Glasgow

  • Pub Culture

    The local pub is still the staple hub of social life in Glasgow; traditional venues like the Pot Still take their place alongside stylish city-centre bars and quite a few spots focused on craft beer. Apart from having a drink, pubs are places to read the paper, to meet friends, to make new ones, to watch the fitba (football), to have a meal, to flirt and to relax. Even if drinking isn't your thing, it's still worth trying out a few pubs; you're likely to find the soul of Glasgow there.

  • Mackintosh

    A pioneer of art nouveau in Britain, Charles Rennie Mackintosh has left the kind of imprint on this city that only great creative minds can. His extraordinary buildings and interior designs can be sought out across Glasgow, foremost among them is his architectural masterpiece at his alma mater, the Glasgow School of Art, while the interior of the Mackintosh House, open in Kelvin Hall from 2020, is perhaps the best way to witness his attention to detail. Underappreciated in his lifetime, his work is a major Glasgow highlight.

  • Live Music

    For its size, Glasgow has one of Europe's best live music scenes; seeing a band here is an essential experience. With several venues that can handle major international acts, and a loveably grungy line-up of pubs that are committed to putting on gigs as often as humanly possible, there's always a choice of concerts and a great atmosphere. Iconic stages include King Tut's Wah Wah Hut, where bands play every night of the week, and Barrowland Ballroom, with its nostalgic dancehall vibe.

  • Galleries

    The quality of the city's art collections is sky-high, appropriately enough for the place that produced the important Glasgow Boys movement, which introduced European notions of realism to the heather-and-mist romanticism of the Scottish painting scene. Top-quality destinations for art include Kelvingrove, which houses plenty of Glasgow Boys along with old masters, impressionists and a superb Dalí; the Burrell Collection, due to reopen in 2020; and the Hunterian Art Gallery, which will reopen in Kelvin Hall that same year. Meanwhile, the Gallery of Modern Art is always worth checking out.

  • Glaswegian Dining

    Glasgow's eating scene is Scotland's best and is delightfully informal; even the city's top restaurants have zero airs and graces. Though you can still chow down on a deep-fried Mars bar or a Clydeside Heartstopper, the city has long since diversified from that dubious legacy. West End options like the long-time pioneer Ubiquitous Chip have set a standard for quality Scottish produce elaborated with multicultural influences, gimmick-free innovation and casual sophistication that is now being reproduced and riffed on all over town. The city's legendary curry houses offer another delicious option.

  • Cathedral Precinct

    Glasgow's elegant Gothic cathedral is one of few to have survived the ravages of the Reformation almost intact and the city is all the better for it. Its location away from the busiest parts of the city centre gives it a contemplative, peaceful air and the atmospheric interior rewards exploration. Behind it, the necropolis makes for a marvellous stroll, with entertainingly over-the-top tombs of Victorian industrialists and great city perspectives. The excellent nearby St Mungo Museum presents a hearteningly wide overview of religious beliefs and practice.

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