Oman

Oman’s highest mountain, Jebel Shams (Mountain of the Sun; 3009m), is best known not for its peak but for the view into the spectacularly deep Wadi Ghul lying alongside it. The straight-sided Wadi Ghul is known locally as the Grand Canyon of Arabia, as it fissures abruptly between the flat canyon rims, exposing vertical cliffs of 1000m and more.

Until recently, there was nothing between the nervous driver and a plunge into the abyss, but now an iron railing at least indicates the most precipitous points along the track, and rough car parks pick out some of the best viewpoints into the canyon. Near the summit, the terrain flattens out into a large plateau making an ideal place to camp and picnic...or buy a carpet! There are also a couple of well-established hikes here, the most famous of which is the Balcony Walk just below the canyon rim.

Built on the foundations of a pre-Islamic structure, the towers and entrance of this fort were constructed during the reign of Imam Said Bin Sultan in 1834. There are excellent views of the Batinah Plain from the ramparts, and the majlis (reception room) on the top ‘storey’ of the fort makes a cool place to enjoy the tranquillity. The windows are perfectly aligned to catch the breeze, even in summer.

After many years of restoration, Bahla Fort, one of the largest in Oman, makes a grand sight looming over the sprawling modern settlement of Bahla. Built by the Bani Nebhan tribe who were dominant in the area from the 12th to the 15th centuries, it was granted Unesco World Heritage status in 1987. There are a few interpretative panels, but the chief attraction of this enormous fort is its scale and the panoramic view from the battlements.

A destination in their own right, or a diversion between Muscat and Sur, these beautiful dunes, still referred to locally as Wahiba Sands, could keep visitors occupied for days. Home to the Bedouin, the sands offer visitors a glimpse of a traditional way of life that is fast disappearing as modern conveniences limit the need for a nomadic existence.

The sands are a good place to interact with Omani women whose Bedouin lifestyle affords them a more visible social role. Despite their elaborate costumes, with peaked masks and an abaya (full-length robe) of gauze, they are accomplished drivers, often coming to the rescue of tourists stuck in remote sands.

It is possible to visit the sands as a day trip, but the majesty of the night sky and the pleasure of dawn in the dunes makes a stay at one of the desert camps a better bet.

Ras Al Jinz (Ras Al Junayz), the easternmost point of the Arabian Peninsula, is an important turtle-nesting site for the endangered green turtle. More than 20,000 females return annually to the beach where they hatched in order to lay eggs. Oman has an important role to play in the conservation of this endangered species and takes the responsibility seriously, with strict penalties for harming turtles or their eggs. The area is under government protection and the only way to visit the site is by joining an escorted tour. A maximum of 200 people, including those staying at the reserve guesthouse, are given entry each evening, with 100 people allowed in the morning, so booking in advance is a must. There's an interesting museum here, and the beach, with its impressive cliffs, is accessible during the day.

The southernmost governorate of Oman is a world away from the industrious north and separated geographically by an interminable gravel desert. Edged by the sand dunes of the Empty Quarter to the north and an escarpment encircling the main city of Salalah in the south, this region is a fascinating place to visit, particularly during or just after the khareef (rainy season) when mists and light rains transform the hillsides from desert brown to luscious green.

If travelling between July to September, try going overland to Salalah and returning by plane. This is the best way to sense the full spectacle of the khareef across the top of the escarpment; after eight hours of gravel plains, Dhofar seems like a minor miracle. With lots of historical interest – from the city of Ubar in Shisr to Al Baleed Archaeological Park in Salalah – Dhofar is a must on most itineraries of Oman.

Separated from the rest of Oman by the east coast of the United Arab Emirates, and guarding the southern side of the strategically important Strait of Hormuz, the Musandam Peninsula is dubbed the ‘Norway of Arabia’ for its beautiful khors (rocky inlets), small villages and dramatic, mountain-hugging roads. Accessible but still isolated in character, this beautiful peninsula with its cultural eccentricities is well worth a visit if you’re on an extended tour of Oman, or if you’re after a taste of wilderness from Dubai.

In a couple of days you can either do justice to the mountains around Jebel Harim by 4WD, or you can focus on the water and explore the khors (most easily by boat). With an ordinary saloon car, the drive along Musandam's western coast gives a taste of both, with its dramatic limestone scenery and reticulated coastline.

Many people come to Mutrah Corniche just to visit the souq, which retains the chaotic interest of a traditional Arab market albeit housed under modern timber roofing. Shops selling Omani and Indian artefacts together with a few antiques jostle among more traditional textile, hardware and jewellery stores. Bargaining is expected although discounts tend to be small. Cards are generally accepted in most shops, but bring cash for better deals. The main entry is via the Corniche, opposite the pedestrian traffic lights.

This dramatic, mountainous region is one of Oman's biggest tourist destinations, and for good reason. Historical Nizwa boasts a grand souq and elegant Grand Mosque and acts as the gateway to spectacular mountain destinations including Jebel Shams (Oman’s highest mountain), Wadi Ghul (the Grand Canyon of Arabia) and Jebel Akhdar (the fruit bowl of Oman). Nearby Bahla and Jabreen are famous for their rambling forts – two of the country's best.

Many of the sights around Nizwa can be visited on a long day-trip from Muscat, and all tour companies in the capital organise coach tours. The region deserves more than just a fleeting visit, however, especially if adding 4WD excursions into the mountains. One scenically rewarding two-day 4WD excursion from Muscat involves an overnight stop in Nizwa and an exciting off-road mountain drive via Hatt and Wadi Bani Awf to Rustaq and the Batinah Plain.

Aptly named in Arabic as the ‘Gorge Between Cliffs’, Wadi Shab is one of the most lovely destinations in Oman, despite Hwy 17 slung across the entrance. The wadi rewards even the most reluctant walker with turquoise pools, a busy falaj (irrigation channel), waterfalls and terraced plantations; kingfishers add glorious splashes of colour and year-round trusses of pink oleander bloom by the water’s edge. A five-minute boat ride (OR1 return) is required to cross the mouth of the wadi to the trail head.