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Campeche State

Tucked into the southwestern corner of the Yucatán Peninsula, Campeche state is home to low-key villages, vast stretches of tangled jungle, bird-dotted mangroves and lagoons, and some of the region’s most imposing Maya ruins – many of which you might have all to yourself. On deserted beaches endangered turtles lay their eggs, while offshore playful dolphins frolic in the surf. The walled capital city of Campeche is the region's cultural epicenter, providing a great jumping-off point for your adventures into this offbeat hinterland.

Campeche is the least visited of the Yucatán’s states, laced through with lonely back roads, friendly people, quiet coastlines and a provincial, lost-land charm. It makes a welcome break from the tourist hordes that descend on the peninsula's more popular destinations; here you'll find peace, surprising attractions and very genuine local experiences.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Campeche State.

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Edzná
Edzná’s massive complexes, that once covered more than 17 sq km, were built by a highly stratified society that flourished from about 600 BC to the 15th century AD. During that period the people of Edzná built more than 20 complexes in a melange of architectural styles, installing an ingenious network of water-collection and irrigation systems. (Though it’s a long way from such Puuc Hills sites as Uxmal and Kabah, some of the architecture here has elements of the Puuc style.) Most of the visible carvings date from AD 550 to 810. The causes leading to Edzná’s decline and gradual abandonment remain a mystery; the site remained unknown until its rediscovery by campesinos in 1906. Edzná means ‘House of the Itzáes,’ a reference to a predominant governing clan of Chontal Maya origin. Edzná’s rulers recorded significant events on stone stelae. Around 30 stelae have been discovered adorning the site’s principal temples; a handful are on display underneath a palapa just beyond the ticket office. A path from the palapa leads about 400m through vegetation; follow the 'Gran Acropolis' sign. Soon, to your left, you'll come upon the Plataforma de los Cuchillos (Platform of the Knives), a residential complex highlighted by Puuc architectural features. The name is derived from an offering of silica knives that was found within. Crossing a sacbé (stone-lined, grass walkway), you arrive at the main attraction, the Plaza Principal. Measuring 160m long and 100m wide, the Plaza Principal is surrounded by temples. On your right is the Nohochná (Big House), a massive, elongated structure topped by four long halls likely used for administrative tasks, such as the collection of tributes and the dispensation of justice. Across the plaza is the Gran Acrópolis, a raised platform holding several structures, including Edzná’s major temple, the 31m-high Edificio de los Cinco Pisos (Five-Story Building). The current structure is the last of four remodels and was done primarily in the Puuc style. It rises five levels from its base to the roofcomb and contains many vaulted rooms. Note the well-preserved glyphs along the base of the central staircase. South of Plaza Principal is the Templo de los Mascarones (Temple of the Masks), with a pair of reddish stucco masks underneath a protective palapa. Personifying the gods of the rising and setting sun, these extraordinarily well-preserved faces display dental mutilation, crossed eyes and huge earrings, features associated with the Maya aristocracy.
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Calakmul
Quite unlike any other Maya city you'll visit in Yucatán, Calakmul was ‘discovered’ in 1931 by American botanist Cyrus Lundell, and is located deep in the jungle miles from modern civilization. The site bears comparison in size and historical significance to Tikal in Guatemala, its chief rival for hegemony over the southern lowlands during the Classic Maya era. It boasts the largest and tallest known pyramid in Mexico's Yucatán, and was once home to over 50,000 people. A central chunk of the 72-sq-km expanse has been restored, but most of the city’s approximately 6000 structures lie covered in jungle. In 2004, amazingly well-preserved painted murals were discovered at the Chiik Naab acropolis of Estructura 1. They depicted something never before seen in Maya murals – the typical daily activities of ordinary Maya (as opposed to the usual political, ceremonial or religious themes). A few years before that, a significant 20m-long, 4m-high stucco frieze was uncovered at Estructura II, whose features seemed to mark a transition between Olmec and Maya architecture. Unfortunately, the murals and frieze are not open to the public, but their reproductions can be seen at Calakmul's modern Museo de Naturaleza y Arqueología, at Km 20 on the 60km side road to Calakmul. This worthwhile museum also has geological, archaeological and natural-history exhibits. At the time of research, you pay three different fees: the community entrance (M$50), biosphere entrance (M$72) and the site entrance (M$75). This combination seems subject to change. Note that the outer gates close for entry at 2:30pm, as you'll need over an hour's driving time to reach the site itself. Also note that there is no water or food on sale within the reserve, so be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks with you.
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Becán
The Maya word for ‘canyon’ or ‘moat’ is becán, and indeed a 2km moat snakes its way around this must-visit Maya site. Seven causeways provide access across the moat to the 12-hectare site, within which are the remains of three separate architectural complexes. A strategic crossroads between the Petenes civilization to the south and Chenes to the north, Becán displays architectural elements of both, with the resulting composite known as the Río Bec style. The elaborate defenses surrounding the site allude to the militaristic nature of the city, which, from around AD 600 to 1000, was a regional capital encompassing Xpujil and Chicanná. Enter the complex via the western causeway, skirting Plaza del Este on your left. Proceed through a 66m-long arched passageway and you will emerge on to the Plaza Central, ringed by three monumental structures. The formidable 32m Estructura IX, on the plaza’s north side, is Becán’s tallest building – though the sign says not to climb it, a rope is provided and there's a steady stream of visitor traffic ascending and descending. Estructura VIII is the huge temple on your right, with a pair of towers flanking a colonnaded facade at the top. It’s a great vantage point for the area; with binoculars, you can sometimes make out Xpujil's ruins to the east. Across the plaza from VIII is Estructura X, with fragments of an Earth Monster mask still visible around the central doorway. You can climb Estructura X, but it's tricky to descend it on the other side, so if you're facing Estructura X, walk to your right around it, which will take you on to the west plaza, with a ritual ball court. Walk through the ball court and go left to check out the encased stucco mask on display. Follow around the right side of the mask to another massive edifice, Estructura I, which takes up one side of the eastern plaza. Its splendid south wall is flanked by a pair of amazing Río Bec towers rising 15m. Ascend the structure on the right side and follow the terrace alongside a series of vaulted rooms back to the other end, where a passage leads you into the Plaza del Este. The most significant structure here is Estructura IV, on the opposite side of the plaza; experts surmise it was a residence for Becán’s aristocrats. A stairway leads to an upstairs courtyard ringed by seven rooms with cross motifs on either side of the doorways. Finally, go around Estructura IV to complete the circle. Becán is located 8km west of Xpujil, 500m north of the highway.
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Museo Arqueológico de Campeche & Fuerte de San Miguel
Campeche’s largest colonial fort, facing the Gulf of Mexico some 4km southwest of the city center, is now home to the most important of Maya museums, the excellent Museo Arqueológico de Campeche, the city's one must-see museum. Here you can admire emblematic pieces from the sites of Calakmul and Edzná, and from Isla de Jaina, an island north of town once used as a burial site for Maya aristocracy. Much of the info is in English. Stunning jade jewelry and exquisite vases, masks and plates are thematically arranged in different exhibit halls. The star attractions are the jade burial masks from Calakmul. Also displayed are stelae, seashell necklaces and clay figurines. You can even (using an interactive exhibit) view how you yourself might have looked as a Maya warrior. Equipped with a dry moat and working drawbridge, the fort itself is a thing of beauty. The roof deck, ringed by 20 cannons, affords wonderful harbor views. To get here take a bus or combi (minibus; marked ‘Lerma’) from the market. Ask the driver to let you off at the access road (just say 'Fuerte de San Miguel'), then hike 300m up the hill. Taxis cost around M$70.
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Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul
Lying at the heart of the vast, untrammeled Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul (which covers close to 15% of the state’s total territory), the magnificent ruins of Calakmul are surrounded by rainforest, an endless canopy of vegetation. While wandering amid the ruins, you might glimpse ocellated turkeys, parrots and toucans among the over 350 bird species that reside or fly through here. It's also possible to see or hear spider and howler monkeys, but you're much less likely to spot a jaguar – one of five kinds of wildcat in the area. There are also many other mammal, reptile and amphibian species that call this biosphere home. Animals are most active during the morning and evening. Note that the last entry is at 2:30pm.
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Estructura II
Climbing the enormous Estructura II, at the south side of the Gran Plaza, is a must. Each of this pyramid’s sides is 140m long, giving it a footprint of just under 2 hectares – making it by some estimates the largest and tallest known Maya structure. After a good climb you’ll come to what appears to be the top of the building, but go around to the left to reach the real apex. From here, 45m above the forest floor, you'll have magnificent views of Estructura I to the southeast and Estructura VII to the north – as well as jungle canopy as far as you can see. Facing southwest, you’ll be looking toward the Maya city El Mirador, in neighboring Guatemala.
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Santa Rosa Xtampak
Though less excavated than Edzná, Uxmal or Calakmul, Santa Rosa Xtampak is considered to be the largest and most important site in the Chenes region, and was perhaps the area's one-time capital. The long drive in means you're likely to have the ruin entirely to yourself, and (for now anyway) it's off the bus-tour circuit. The excavated area is compact and impressive, with ornate Chenes-style decorations surrounding temple doors, and around 50 chaltuns (wells).
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Malecón
A popular path for joggers, cyclists, strolling friends and cooing sweethearts, the malecón, Campeche’s 7km-long waterfront promenade, makes for a breezy sunrise ramble or sunset bike ride. A series of monuments along a 2.5km stretch of the malecón allude to various personages and events in the city’s history. Southwest of the Plaza Moch-Couoh (under construction at time of research) stands a statue of Campeche native Justo Sierra Méndez, a key player in the modernization of Mexico’s educational system. Next to the plaza is a monument of the walled city’s four gates. Three blocks up is a monumental sculpture of native son Pedro Sáinz de Baranda, who played a key role in defeating the Spanish at their last stronghold in Veracruz, thus ending the War of Independence. Just beyond the Centro de Convenciones Campeche XXI, the girl gazing out to sea is the Novia del Mar. According to a poignant local legend, the campechana fell in love with a foreign pirate and awaits his return. About 1km further north, the Plaza Cuatro de Octubre (October 4 Plaza) commemorates the date of the city’s ‘founding,’ depicting the fateful meeting of a Maya cacique (chief), the conquistador Francisco de Montejo and a priest. At the malecón’s northern tip, 4.5km northeast from downtown, lies a cluster of seafood restaurants called Parador Gastrónomico de Cocteleros. It's a good place for lunch, despite the overzealous waiters touting for customers.
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Chicanná
Aptly named ‘House of the Snake’s Jaws,’ this Maya site is best known for one remarkably well-preserved doorway with a hideous fanged visage. Located 10km west of Xpujil and 400m south of Hwy 186, Chicanná is a mixture of Chenes and Río Bec architectural styles buried in the jungle. The city attained its peak during the late Classic period, from AD 550 to 700, as a sort of elite suburb of Becán. Beyond the admission pavilion, follow the rock paths through the jungle to Estructura XX, which boasts two monster-mouth doorways, one above the other. The top structure is impressively flanked by rounded stacks of crook-nosed Chaac masks. A five-minute walk along the jungle path brings you to Estructura XI, with what remains of some of the earliest buildings. Continue along the main path about 120m northeast to reach the main plaza. Standing on the east side is Chicanná’s famous Estructura II, with its gigantic Chenes-style monster-mouth doorway, believed to depict the jaws of the god Itzamná – lord of the heavens and creator of all things. Note the painted glyphs to the right of the mask. A path leading from the right corner of Estructura II takes you to Estructura VI, which has a well-preserved roofcomb and some beautiful profile masks on its facade. Circle around the back, noting the faded red-painted blocks of the west wing, then turn right to hike back to the main entrance. Chicanna is 10km west of Xpujil and 2km west of Becán.