East of central Souillac, a grassy clifftop affords fine views of the black-rock coastline. A path leads down to the wild Gris Gris beach; a wooden sign warns of the dangers of swimming here. The term gris gris traditionally refers to 'black magic' and, looking at the tortuous coastline, you can see how the area got its name. Then again, another story suggests that the beach was named after the puppy (!) of a French cartographer who visited in 1753.