Matt Munro
Sarawak makes access to Borneo’s natural wonders and cultural riches a breeze. From Kuching, the island’s most dynamic city, pristine rainforests – where you can spot orangutans, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and the world’s largest flower, the rafflesia – can be visited on day trips, with time in the evening for a tasty meal and a drink by the waterfront. More adventurous travelers can take a ‘flying coffin’ riverboat up the 'Amazon of Borneo', the Batang Rejang, on their way east to hike from longhouse to longhouse in the cool environs of the Kelabit Highlands, or to the spectacular bat caves and extraordinary rock formations of Gunung Mulu National Park. For the best chance of seeing an orangutan in the wild, venture to the Batang Ai region.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Sarawak.
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One of the best places in the world to see semiwild orangutans in their natural rainforest habitat, swinging from trees and scurrying up vines, Semenggoh Wildlife Centre is home to 28 orangutans who often (literally) swing by park HQ to dine on bananas and coconuts. There’s no guarantee that orangutans will show up, but even when there's plenty of fruit in the forest (November to February) the chances are excellent.
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Housed in the century-old Chinese Court building, this museum provides an excellent introduction to the nine major Chinese communities – each with its own dialect, cuisine and temples – who began settling in Sarawak around 1830. Highlights include ceramics, musical instruments, historic photographs and some fearsome dragon- and lion-dance costumes. The entrance is on the river side of the building.
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Built by Charles Brooke in 1869, the Astana (a local word meaning 'palace’) – conveniently labelled in giant white letters – and its manicured gardens still serve as the home of the governor of Sarawak. The best views of the complex are actually from the south (city centre) bank of the river, so it’s not really worth taking a tambang across or using the Darul Hana Bridge.
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A 3km walk through the rainforest takes you to these adjacent caverns. Deer Cave – over 2km long and 174m high – is the world’s largest cave passage open to the public, while Lang Cave – more understated in its proportions – contains interesting stalactites and stalagmites. Be sure to stay on for the 'bat exodus' at dusk.
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Built by Charles Brooke in 1880 to take control of the Upper Rejang, this wooden fort – built of belian (ironwood) – was renamed in 1925 to honour Ranee Sylvia, wife of Charles Vyner Brooke. The exhibits inside offer a good introduction to the traditional lifestyles of the indigenous groups of the Batang Rejang and include evocative colonial-era photographs. Also on show is the peace jar presented during the historic 1924 peacemaking ceremony between previously warring Iban, Kayan and Kenyah groups.
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Occupying a remote, rugged peninsula at Sarawak’s far northwestern tip, this compact 14-sq-km national park features endangered mixed dipterocarp rainforest, jungle trails that hear few footfalls, crystal-clear seas, unspoilt coral reefs and near-pristine white-sand beaches on which endangered turtles occasionally lay their eggs. Few visitors make the effort and brave the expense to travel out here, but those who do often come away enchanted. Simple accommodation is available in the park and there are homestays in Teluk Melano.
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A raised boardwalk leads 3.1km (3½ to four hours return) through swampy old-growth rainforest to the mouth of the Great Cave, a vast cavern approximately 2km long, up to 250m across and up to 60m high. Inside, the trail splits to go around a massive central pillar, but both branches finish at the same point, so it’s impossible to get lost if you stick to the boardwalk. The stairs and handrails are usually covered with guano, and can be slippery.
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Wind Cave, named for the cool breezes blowing through it, has several chambers, including the cathedral-like King’s Chamber, filled with dreamlike forests of stalagmites and columns. There's a sweaty 200-step climb up to Clearwater Cave and the subterranean river there. The cave itself is vast: more than 200km of passages have been surveyed so far.
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Built by Charles Brooke in 1879 and named after his wife, Ranee Margaret, this hilltop fortress long protected Kuching against surprise attack by pirates. Inside, the Brooke Gallery illustrates the remarkable story of the white rajas of Sarawak with fascinating artefacts and story boards. To get here take a tambang (RM1) from the Waterfront Promenade to Kampung Boyan and then follow the signs up through the derelict school for 500m. A new stairway and tambang wharf west of the fort should open in 2020.
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