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Latvia
A tapestry of sea, lakes and woods, Latvia is best described as a vast, unspoilt parkland with just one real city – its cosmopolitan capital, Rīga. The country might be small, but the amount of personal space it provides is enormous. You can always secure a chunk of pristine nature all for yourself, be it for trekking, cycling or dreaming away on a white-sand beach amid pine-covered dunes.
Having been invaded by every regional power, Latvia has more cultural layers and a less homogenous population than its neighbours. People here fancy themselves to be the least pragmatic and the most artistic of the Baltic lot. They prove the point with myriad festivals and a merry, devil-may-care attitude – well, a subdued Nordic version of it.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Latvia.
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Alberta Iela
Like a huge painting that you can spend hours staring at, as your eye detects more and more intriguing details, this must-see Rīga sight is in fact a rather functional street with residential houses, restaurants and shops. Art nouveau, otherwise known as Jugendstil, is the style, and the architect responsible for many of the buildings is Mikhail Eisenstein (father of filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein). Named after the founder of Rīga, Bishop Albert von Buxhoevden, the street was Eisenstein's gift to Rīga on its 700th anniversary. A jolly man, his bon vivant personality comes through in his exuberant work. See the full range of his talents on display in five adjoining buildings he designed from No 2a to No 8. In particular, note Alberta iela 2a, constructed in 1906: serene faces with chevalier helmets stand guard atop the facade, which noticeably extends far beyond the actual roof of the structure. Screaming masks and horrible goblins adorn the lower sections amid clean lines and surprising robot-like shapes. Most noticeable are the two stone satyr phoenix-women that stand guard at the front. The three heads on Alberta iela 4 are, well, head-turners. If you look carefully, you’ll see a nest of snakes slithering around their heads, evoking Medusa. All six eyes seem transfixed on some unseen horror, but only two of the faces are screaming in shock and fear. Two elaborate reliefs near the entrance feature majestic griffins, while ferocious lions with erect, fist-like tails keep watch on the roof. The enigmatic woman's face over the entrance may be the most-photographed image in Rīga. Further down the street, the Rīga Graduate School of Law at Alberta iela 13 attracts photographers like a starlet at Cannes. Another Eisenstein, it mixes Jugendstil with the Italian Renaissance – the facade has far too much texture: true art nouveau gives facades the flatness of a theatre backdrop. Peacocks, tangled shrubs and bare-breasted heroines abound, while cheery pastoral scenes are depicted in relief on Erykah Badu–like turbans atop the giant yawning masks. The triangular summit is a mishmash of nightmarish imagery: lion heads taper off into snake tails (like Chimera), sobbing faces weep in agony and a strange futuristic mask stoically stares out over the city from the apex.
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St Peter's Church
Forming the centrepiece of Rīga’s skyline, this Gothic church is thought to be around 800 years old, making it one of the oldest medieval buildings in the Baltic. Its soaring red-brick interior is relatively unadorned, except for heraldic shields mounted on the columns. A colourful contrast is provided by the art exhibitions staged in the side aisles. At the rear of the church, a lift whisks visitors to a viewing platform 72m up the copper-clad steeple. The church's austere Gothic outlook is softened by baroque sculptures, added in the 17th century, along with the spire that instantly became a signature element of Rīga's skyline. In 1721 the spire was destroyed in a blaze, despite Russian emperor Peter I personally rushing to the scene to extinguish the fire. A legend says that when it was re-erected in 1746, builders threw glass from the top to see how long the spire would last; a greater number of shards meant a very long life. The glass ended up landing on a pile of straw and broke into just two pieces. The spire ended up being destroyed again in WWII. When it was resurrected again, the ceremonial glass chucking was repeated, and this time it was a smash hit. Today St Peter's is garlanded by stylish restaurants and cafes.
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Cēsis Castle
Cēsis Castle is actually two castles in one. The moody dark-stone towers belong to the increasingly restored old castle. Founded by Livonian knights in 1214, it was sacked by Russian tsar Ivan the Terrible in 1577. The newer castle, the stolid 18th-century manor house, was once inhabited by the dynasty of German counts von Sievers and now houses a museum that features original fin-de-siècle interiors. In summer there is a demonstration garden showing how people ate 500 years ago. After visiting the castle, take a walk through the landscaped castle park. Nearby is the hilltop Russian Orthodox Church of Transfiguration, which the von Sievers built at their family cemetery (like many Germans on Russian service they converted to Orthodoxy).
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Corner House
A real-life house of horrors, this imposing fin de siècle building is remembered by generations of Latvians as the local headquarters of the notorious Soviet secret police – NKVD/KGB. Arbitrary arrests, torture, executions – it all happened here. It's now an exhibition dedicated to victims and perpetrators of political repression. A sign outside reads 'KGB imprisoned, tortured, executed and humiliated its victims'. English-language tours are usually in the mornings, but confirm in advance. Older Rīgans remember the lines of people who would form along the grey street outside the building hoping to get word about their missing loved ones. On the building at Brīvības iela 70, you can still see the metal brackets used for KGB cameras that recorded the faces of anyone who ventured near the Corner House.
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Žanis Lipke Memorial
There is hardly a place in Latvia that can tell such a poignant and optimistic story as this quietly stunning memorial. Žanis Lipke saved over 50 Jews from certain death during the Nazi occupation: he found a job with the German air force, which allowed him to smuggle people out of the Rīga ghetto under the pretext of using them as labourers. He hid them in a bunker under the woodpile next to his house – now the site of this memorial. Lipke was helped by his wife and a whole network of volunteers, some of whom played with death by walking into the ghetto to pose as the runaways during the headcount. The memorial building is a masterpiece of understated design that amplifies the details of the story as it unfolds. Lipke's descendants still live next door.
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Rīga Ghetto & Latvian Holocaust Museum
The centrepiece of this arresting and challenging museum is a wooden house with a reconstructed flat, like those that Jews had to move into when the Nazis established a ghetto in this area of Rīga in 1941. The central courtyard has a railway wagon similar to the kind that brought Jews from Germany to Rīga to be killed. Nearby, there is a photographic exhibition detailing the Holocaust in Latvia with the faces of those killed. Elsewhere, well-curated exhibitions explore the Holocaust across Europe. A tiny on-site cafe offers kosher refreshments.
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Biķernieki Memorial
Between 1941 and 1944, the Nazis – aided by Latvians – shot more than 35,000 Jews at 55 different sites in this forest. It is one of several killing sites that ring Rīga. In 2001 a large and impressive memorial was opened here deep in the woods, about 200m south of the busy road. Stones list the names of places in Europe from where Jews were brought to be killed here. Paths through the now silent trees lead to other killing sites. Some 6km east of central Rīga, the memorial is a thoughtful and contemplative place. Bus 15 stops nearby.
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Pedvāle Art Park
Located 1.5km south of the centre, this open-air art extravaganza was founded by Ojars Feldbergs, a Latvian sculptor. Pedvāle showcases over 100 thought-provoking installations on 100 hectares of rolling hills. Every year the pieces rotate, reflecting the theme of the year. Standout works include Chair, an enormous seat made from bright blue oil drums; and the iconic Petriflora Pedvalensis, a bouquet of flowers whose petals have been replaced with spiral stones. The site is anchored by an old manor house.
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Museum of the Barricades of 1991
Latvia's independence came after enormous struggles. One of the most remarkable stories involves the barricades built by thousands of citizens around important public buildings in Rīga. In January 1991, Latvians from every walk of life came together to prevent the Soviets from taking over the capital, a stunning display of heartfelt commitment to a greater cause. This excellent museum is run by the organisation of barricade veterans. It's a moving – and professionally curated – account of this pivotal time.
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