On the city's northern outskirts, approached through rustling conifers, Enchey is a small but appealing Buddhist monastery that is, in a sense, Gangtok's raison d'être: it was the site's perceived sanctity that attracted people to this once-obscure area. A small, vibrant prayer hall sports tantric statues and a three-dimensional scene that plays out behind the central Buddha figure.

Most of the potentially superb views are masked by trees and the startling ruin of a monastic building that remains half-toppled since the 2011 earthquake.

Taxis from MG Marg cost ₹200. Walking here from Ganesh Tok takes just over 15 minutes through the forest, but don't try that in reverse. Descending to the White Memorial Hall takes 15 minutes if you use the shortcut stairways: the second one is guarded by a sentry box, but you ARE allowed to use it. This route emerges by the Tamarind Residency hotel.