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Telangana & Andhra Pradesh

Hyderabad, one of Islamic India's greatest cities, is reason enough on its own to visit this region. Its skyline is a sight to behold, defined by the great domes and minarets of ancient mosques, mausoleums and palaces of once-mighty dynasties. Delve inside the city's fabled old quarter for fascinating street markets, Sufi shrines, teahouses and biryani restaurants. Meanwhile, Hyderabad's newer districts are awash with the upmarket restaurants of IT-fuelled economic advancement.

The other attractions of these two states (which were one entity until 2014) are less brazen, but there are hidden gems like the wonderful temple sculptures of Ramappa and ancient Buddhist sites at Sankaram and Guntupalli. Coastal Visakhapatnam has a cheery vibe, while joining the pilgrim crowds on the hike up to Tirumala's temple is an unforgettable experience.

Recently upgraded airports (at Tirupati, Vijaywada and Visakhapatnam) and increased regional flights have really opened up these captivating states for travelers.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Telangana & Andhra Pradesh.

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Golconda Fort
Hyderabad's most impressive sight, this monumental fort lies on the western edge of town. In the 16th century the Qutb Shahs made Golconda a fortified citadel, built atop a 120m-high granite hill surrounded by mighty ramparts, all ringed by further necklaces of crenellated fortifications, 11km in perimeter. From the summit there are stunning vistas across dusty Deccan foothills and the crumbling outer ramparts, over the domed tombs of Qutb Shahs, past distant shanty towns to the horizon haze of the inner city.
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Charminar
Hyderabad’s principal landmark and city symbol was built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate the founding of Hyderabad and the end of epidemics caused by Golconda’s water shortage. The gargantuan four-column, 56m-high structure has four arches facing the cardinal points, with minarets atop each column (hence the name Charminar, 'four minarets'). It's certainly an impressive sight, though the relentless traffic that swirls around the structure, crowds and queues make it somewhat less rewarding to visit.
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Venkateshwara Temple
Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple’s history may date back 2000 years. Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. Among the many powers attributed to Venkateshwara is the granting of any wish made at this holy site. Foreigners (with passport) are able to gain fast-entry (₹300) at the Supatham Gate and avoid the worst of the scrum, though expect jostling.
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Qutb Shahi Tombs
The subject of one of India's most ambitious heritage projects, these magnificent domed granite tombs form part of a huge archaeological park that is steadily being renovated by the Aga Khan Development Network. All in all there are 40 mausoleums, 23 mosques, a hammam and several pavilions located in landscaped gardens. Seven of the eight Qutb Shahi rulers were buried here under great domes mounted on cubical bases, many of which have beautiful colonnades and delicate lime stucco ornamentation.
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Guntupalli
This former monastic compound, on a hilltop overlooking a vast expanse of forest and paddy fields, is well off the beaten path and makes a very scenic adventure. It's especially noteworthy for its circular rock-cut chaitya-griha shrine. The cave’s domed ceiling is carved with ‘wooden beams’ designed to look like those in a hut. The chaitya-griha has a well-preserved stupa and, like the monks' dwellings that line the same cliff, a gorgeous arched facade also designed to look like wood.
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Chowmahalla Palace
This opulent 18th- and 19th-century palace compound, the main residence of several nizams, comprises several grandiose buildings and four garden courtyards. Most dazzling is the Khilwat Mubarak, a magnificent durbar (royal court) hall where nizams held ceremonies under 19 enormous chandeliers of Belgian crystal. Its side rooms today house historical exhibits, arts and crafts, and exhibits of nizams' personal possessions. In the southernmost courtyard is a priceless collection of carriages and vintage cars including a 1911 yellow Rolls-Royce and 1937 Buick convertible.
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HEH The Nizam’s Museum
The Purani Haveli was a home of the sixth nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869–1911). He was rumoured to have never worn the same thing twice: hence the 54m-long, two-storey Burmese teak wardrobe. Much of the museum is devoted to personal effects of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan, including his silver cradle, gold-burnished throne and lavish Silver Jubilee gifts. The displays, lighting and information could be improved, but it's still a worthwhile visit.
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Paigah Tombs
The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendants of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals. The Paigahs’ necropolis, in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble and lime stucco. It's signposted down a small lane opposite Owaisi Hospital on the Inner Ring Rd.
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Mecca Masjid
This mosque is one of the world’s largest, with 10,000 men praying here at major Muslim festivals, and also one of Hyderabad's oldest buildings, begun in 1617 by the city's founder Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah. Women are not allowed inside the main prayer hall, and male tourists are unlikely to be let in either (they can look through the railings). Note that female tourists, even with headscarves, may not be permitted into the courtyard if their clothing is judged inappropriate.