Telangana & Andhra Pradesh

Steeped in history, thronged with people and buzzing with commerce, the Old City of Hyderabad is one of India's most evocative ancient quarters. Exploring the lanes of this district, with its chai shops and spice merchants, you'll encounter a teeming urban masala of colour and commerce. Looming over the Old City is some of Islamic India's most impressive architecture, in varying states of repair. Most visitors concentrate their time in this area, though the magnificent Golconda Fort should not be missed either.

Hyderabad's other pole is far younger and west of the centre – its Hi-Tech City, or 'Cyberabad', and other districts like Banjara Hills and Jubilee Hills are replete with glittery malls, multiplexes, clubs, pubs and sleek restaurants.

Hyderabad traffic is appalling, though with the opening of a new metro rail rapid-transit system things should ease somewhat in the coming years.

Located 40km west of Vizag, the stunning seldom-visited Buddhist complex of Sankaram is also known by the names of its two parts, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Bojjannakonda, the eastern part, has a pair of rock-cut shrines with several gorgeous carvings of the Buddha inside and outside. Above sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery. Lingalakonda, at the western end, is piled with tiers of rock-cut stupas, some of them enormous.

About 70km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple is near the village of Palampet. Built in the early 13th century, it's the outstanding gem of Kakatiya architecture, covered in wonderfully detailed carvings of animals, lovers, wrestlers, musicians, dancers, deities and Hindu legends. Brackets on its external pillars support superb black-basalt carvings of mythical creatures and sinuous women twined with snakes. The large temple tank, Ramappa Cheruvu, 1km south, is popular with migrating birds.

Hyderabad has a food culture all of its own and Hyderabadis take great pride and pleasure in it. It was the Mughals who brought the tasty biryanis, skewer kebabs and special Ramadan dishes like haleem, so many dishes have a hint of Persia about them.

Biryani is the definitive local meal. In Hyderabad it's often prepared in layers, with uncooked meat at the bottom of the pan (the highest temperature), topped with rice, then another layer of half-cooked spiced meat so that the ingredients are ready at the same time. Hyderabadi biryanis are spicy, but not fancy or fragrant like the biryanis of Lucknow, another town synonymous with the dish. Biryanis in Hyderabad are always served with mirchi ka slan (a richly spiced gravy) and dahi ki (raita, often called chutney locally). Mutton (goat or lamb) is the classic biryani base, though chicken, egg, fish and vegetable biryanis are plentiful too. Biryanis come in vast quantities and one serve may satisfy two people. Good places to order a biryani include Hotel Shadab in the Old City, Cafe Bahar, Shah Ghouse Cafe and Paradise, which has several branches across Hyderabad.

To experience the other classic Hyderabad dish, haleem (a thick soup of pounded, spiced wheat with goat, chicken or beef, and lentils) you really need to be in the city during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan). Come nightfall at this time, the serious business of eating begins, as thousands of stalls are set up across the city and locals go haleem-hopping to assess the best. Look out for the clay ovens called bhattis; you’ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem and the crowds are quite something. Outside Ramzan, haleem is rare on local menus. Chicha's serves up the dish each Friday, while hotel restaurants Firdaus and Aish offer fine versions of the dish all year round.

Look out too for pesarattu (a pancake-like dosa made with green mung beans), which are stuffed with upma (semolina seasoned with cumin, onion, ginger and green chilli) and served with chutney. It's a popular breakfast dish, which you can find at Chutneys.

One of the globe's largest pilgrimage destinations, the holy hill of Tirumala is, on any given day, thronged with thousands of devotees who've journeyed to venerate Lord Venkateshwara here, at his home. Around 60,000 pilgrims come each day, and darshan runs 24/7. The Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams efficiently administers the multitudes, employing 20,000 people to do so. Despite the crowds, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfilling even if you’re not a pilgrim. Queues during the annual nine-day Brahmotsavam festival can stretch for kilometres.

Tirupati, the humdrum town at the bottom of the hill, is the functional gateway to Tirumala.

Andhra’s best train ride is through the beautiful, lushly forested Eastern Ghats to the Araku Valley, centred on Araku town, 115km north of Visakhapatnam. The area is home to isolated tribal communities and known for its tasty organic coffee and lovely green countryside. En route you can visit the impressive Borra Caves.