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With relatively few beaches and no blockbuster archaeological sites, Thrace (Thraki) draws few foreign tourists, and not many Greeks, either. What Thrace does have is dramatic natural scenery, from the lush delta of the Evros River to the deeply forested Rhodopi Mountains, and a unique mix of cultures, religions and languages, forged by centuries of various empires and migration flows.
In Thrace, modern national borders are abstractions laid over the stronger, deeper roots of the Pomak people, Slavic Muslims who live on both slopes of the mountains that now demarcate Greece and Bulgaria. The border between Greece and Turkey is likewise arbitrary, cutting down the middle of the vast Thracian plain, with its fertile fields of sunflowers, wheat and tobacco. In many villages, people speak Greek as a second language, and the skylines are studded with church domes and minarets alike.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Thrace.
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This large patch of protected forest is on a major bird migration route and home to three of Europe's four vulture species. Visits are best in spring or in July, when baby vultures pop from their nests. The Info Centre runs a shuttle 3km in to the bird observatory, which is furnished with telescopes to spot the giant raptors feeding; the excursion takes about an hour. You can also rent a mountain bike or take an easy hike in.
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Located in Tsiakiri House, a silk producer of 60 years' pedigree, this museum is fascinating and informative. Enthusiastic, multilingual staff take you through the history of Soufli's sericulture industry and the process of silk production, starting with the tiny worms (live, and actually munching on mulberry leaves) that grow to make the soft cocoon made of silk thread. The front has a shop where you can buy silk products.
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Learn all about the Greek–Turkish population exchange at this excellent museum with an equally excellent and dedicated staff. The exhibits tell the stories of the broader regional culture, and the stories of the displaced communities, especially their pluck and ingenuity in rebuilding their lives anew.
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Just southeast of Alexandroupoli, where the Evros River reaches the Aegean, 188 sq km of coastal lakes, lagoons, sand dunes, swamps and reed beds harbour an immensely rich amount of wildlife. In the spring migrations, thousands of wader birds pause here to feed in the nutrient-packed waters. The protected western section, including the Anthia Marshes and Drana Lagoon, is accessible via the visitor centre in Loutra Traianoupolis. The eastern portion is reached via Feres, but is sometimes closed by the military.
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About 6km south of modern Abdera lies the acropolis of the ancient town, inhabited in the 7th century BC but wracked by various invasions, until it was abandoned in the early 4th century AD. You can walk only along the perimeter of excavated areas, making it hard to see the details. Still, you can see a portion of the city wall, as well as the orderly block-style urban plan, including a paved courtyard of a Roman-era house.
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Set amid fields of cotton and mustard seed on the plain southeast of Xanthi, this is the burial spot of a dervish of the Bektashi order, the primary Islamic sect in Thrace. What's striking is how the place functions as both a Muslim and a Christian site: in the antechamber are an Orthodox icon of St George and candles; in the main domed room is the Baba's tomb, draped in green cloth.
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Across Orfeos north of Plateia Eirinis, Komotini’s Ottoman-era neighbourhood, still predominantly Turkish, has old homes, barber shops and teahouses. Its key landmarks are the Eski Camii (Old Mosque), built in 1608, and the Yeni Camii (New Mosque), which, paradoxically, predates the old mosque by 23 years. (Eski Camii is thought to be built over an even older mosque.) An 1884 clock tower adds to the skyline next to the minarets.
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Stacked up on the hillside on the north side of the city, Xanthi's picturesque historic district is a web of winding lanes and stairs lined with pastel-coloured timber-framed houses and grand neoclassical mansions. Although some of the buildings could use a bit more restoration, it is scenic. It's a functioning neighbourhood, not an outdoor museum with public schools, grocery stores, a 16th-century mosque and a lively bar scene.
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Inside a grand sandstone mansion, this museum with backyard cafe packs its displays with colourful Thracian costumes, musical instruments, oil presses, and tools for beekeeping and tobacco production. You'll learn how many silkworms are needed to make 25g of silk and which Greek sweet is made by slamming the ingredients against a wall.