Rethymno Province

Wild beauty Rethymno is peppered with historic sites and natural wonders. Ribbons of mountain road wind through the timeless interior, passing fields of wildflowers and traditional hamlets cradled by olive groves. Descend into the spooky darkness of grotto-like caves; explore steep, lush gorges; and rest in the shade of lofty Mt Psiloritis, Crete’s highest peak. Visit enduring monasteries, Minoan tombs and Venetian strongholds. Rethymno is also a magnet for artists, many practising age-old trades with modern twists.

The eponymous capital on the northern coast is a bustle of atmosphere-soaked cobbled lanes, laden with shops, restaurants and bars and flanked by a wide, sandy beach. The southern coast is graced with bewitching beaches in seductive isolation. Weave your way through this spellbinding land from shore to shore.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Rethymno Province.

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Fortezza
Looming over Rethymno, the star-shaped Venetian fortress cuts an imposing figure with its massive walls and bastions but was nevertheless unable to stave off the Turks in 1646. Over time, an entire village took shape on the grounds, most of which was destroyed in WWII. Views over the town, the Mediterranean and mountains are fabulous up here and it’s fun to poke around the ramparts, palm trees and remaining buildings, most notably the Sultan Bin Ibrahim Mosque with its huge dome. Head inside the mosque to admire its impressive mosaic ceiling, with wonderful acoustics that are perfect for the occasional musical event held here. A few other buildings (like the twin buildings of the Bastion of Agios Nikolaos) are also used to showcase art exhibits. Pick up a free map from the ticket office, which offers useful info on the site. Last entry is 45 minutes before closing.
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Archaeological Museum of Rethymno
Set inside the atmospheric Venetian-built Church of St Francis, this well-curated museum features a stunning collection of well-preserved relics unearthed from major archaeological digs around Rethymno Province. Its collection offers a comprehensive snapshot (without leaving you overwhelmed) that predominantly covers pieces from the Minoan, Byzantine and Venetian periods. Highlights include exquisite hand-painted Minoan ceramics, a 9000-year-old limestone deity statue and a bronze lamp from the Hellenistic period (1st century BC) depicting Dionysus riding a panther.
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Venetian Harbour
Rethymno’s compact historic harbour is chock-a-block with tourist-geared fish tavernas and cafes. For a more atmospheric perspective, walk along the harbour walls, past the fishing boats to the prominent lighthouse, built in the 19th century by the Egyptians.
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Agios Spyridon Church
Built right into the cliff beneath the Venetian fortress, tiny Agios Spyridon has enough atmosphere to fill a cathedral. This Byzantine chapel is filled with richly painted icons, swinging bird candleholders and the sound of the nearby pounding surf. You’ll see pairs of slippers, baby shoes and sandals in crevices in the rock wall, left as prayer offerings for the sick. Find the chapel at the top of a staircase on the fortress' western side. Opening hours are erratic.
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Paleontological Museum
The highlight of this dusty old museum are the displays of fossilised tusks and bones from the dwarf Cretan elephant and pygmy hippopotamus. Both were endemic to the Rethymno region before becoming extinct around 12,000 years ago. The museum is in the restored 17th-century Temple of Mastaba (aka Veli Pasha Mosque), with nine domes and the city’s oldest minaret. The complex, a branch of Athens’ Goulandris Natural History Museum, often has touring exhibits from the capital and abroad.
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Plakias Beach
Though Plakias features 1.5km of beachfront, keep your expectations in check. For the best patch, head 200m south of the main drag, where you'll find a handful of bars, sunbeds and umbrellas. While the beach here is more crushed shell than powdery sand, its azure water is exquisite. Alternatively, there's a string of more appealing secluded beaches southeast of Damnoni Beach.
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Museum of Contemporary Art
The cornerstone of the permanent collection of this well-curated modern-art museum, founded in 1992, is the oils, drawings and watercolours of local lad Lefteris Kanakakis, but over time it has amassed enough works to present the arc of creative endeavour in Greece since the 1950s. Temporary exhibits keep things dynamic. Entrance is off Mesologhiou.
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Neratzes Mosque
This triple-domed mosque began life as an Augustinian church and was converted by the Turks in 1657, although the recently restored minaret wasn't added until 1890. Today the building is a music conservatory and performance space, with events held most Friday and Saturday evenings.
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Historical & Folk Art Museum
In a lovely 17th-century Venetian mansion, the five-room permanent exhibit here documents traditional rural life on Crete with displays of clothing, baskets, weavings, pottery, weapons and farming tools. Labelling is also in English.