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Åland Archipelago

Glorious Åland Archipelago is the sunniest spot in northern Europe and its sweeping white-sand beaches and flat, scenic cycling routes attract crowds of holidaymakers during summer. Yet outside the lively capital, Mariehamn, a sleepy haze hangs over the islands’ tiny villages: finding your own remote beach among the 6500 skerries (rocky islets) is surprisingly easy. A lattice of bridges and free cable ferries connects the central islands, while larger car ferries run to the archipelago’s outer reaches.

And yet, Åland is a geopolitical anomaly: it is Finnish owned and Swedish speaking, but it has its own parliament, flies its own blue, gold and red flag, issues its own stamps and uses its own web suffix: ‘dot ax’. Its ‘special relationship' with the EU means it can sell duty-free and make its own gambling laws.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Åland Archipelago.

  • See

    Bomarsund Fästningsruin

    Following the war of 1808–09, Russia began building this major military structure as its westernmost defence against the Swedes. The fortress was still incomplete when the Crimean War began in 1854, and a French-British naval force bombarded it heavily from the sea. Within four days the Russians were forced to surrender it. The evocative ruins stretch for a couple of kilometres, straddling the road and overlooking the sea. Across the water on Prästö, the small Bomarsund Museum displays excavated artefacts. At the complex's core was a huge fortress, built from brick and strengthened with distinctive octagonal blocks, containing a garrison town, and protected by ramparts and a planned 15 fortified towers. Prästö became Bomarsund’s island of the dead, with a military hospital and separate Greek Orthodox, Jewish, Muslim and Christian graveyards. The epic construction drew masons, craftsmen and soldiers from across the Russian Empire. In the Huvudfästet (main fort), only three of the defensive towers were completed. Today, they are an impressive sight, particularly Brännklint tower, its walls scarred by cannon and rifle fire. The overgrown foundations of the garrison town Nya Skarpans, populated now only by ants and butterflies, are also atmospheric.

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    Kastelholms Slott

    One of Åland’s premier sights is this striking 14th-century castle on a picturesque inlet (signposted off Rd 2). The keep towers are 15m high in parts, with walls of 3m-thick red granite; it’s easy to see how it would once have ruled over Åland. Exhibits showcase the castle’s evolution and archaeological finds, including a medieval silver-coin hoard. English-language tours (included in admission) depart at 2pm Saturday and Sunday from June to early August and last around 45 minutes. Several extensions, most notably by Gustav Wasa, followed the castle's initial construction. Mad king Eric XIV, deposed by an uprising in 1569, was moved from prison to prison around the Swedish kingdom. He spent three months here, shut up (according to tradition, at least) in a tiny chamber in the Kuretorn keep. A fire in 1745 reduced the castle to ruins; only the northern wing survived.

  • See

    Sjöfartsmuseum

    Preserved boats make up most of the exhibitions at this state-of-the-art museum exploring Åland's marine heritage; the centrepiece is a reproduction of a ship, complete with mast, saloon, galley and cabins. The museum is a great place to discover your inner pirate, with plenty of ships in bottles, sea chests and accoutrements. Anchored outside is the Museumship Pommern, a beautiful 1903-built four-masted merchant barque that's due to reopen after restoration works in 2019. Also here is Mariehamn's top restaurant, Nautical.

  • See

    Museumship Pommern

    Anchored just behind the Sjöfartsmuseum, this beautifully preserved, four-masted, merchant barque was built in 1903 in Glasgow, Scotland. The ship once carried tonnes of cargo and a 26-man crew on the trade route between Australia and England. Its record run was a speedy 110 days. The ship closed to visitors in 2016 for a major restoration, and was due to reopen in Spring 2019.

  • See

    Kumlinge Apotek

    It's worth a small purchase to glimpse the fantastic interior of this old-fashioned pharmacy. Inside a red house, the apothecary cabinets are lined with colourful bottles and labelled drawers, while a curious multiple-pendulum balance scale sits on the counter. The place is still in business.

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    Sjökvarteret

    At the northern end of Österhamn, Sjökvarteret has long been devoted to boat building. You can stroll along the atmospheric quay, lined with traditional schooners, and perhaps see boats under construction. The museum, with exhibitions on shipbuilding (no English information), is located in a small timber boat shed. Don't miss the tiny reconstructed seafarers’ chapel at the end of the pier. It's easy to while away a couple of hours at Sjökvarteret, as there are galleries, unique jewellery and an excellent craft shop, not to mention the delightful Pub Niska.

  • See

    Kobba Klintar

    Since 1862 a beacon has shone out from this island south of Mariehamn. Nowadays, the original pilot cottage is dwarfed by a bigger and better house with foghorn. There's no longer a pilot at this station, so the renovated buildings are used for art exhibitions, literary events and jazz concerts. There's a summertime cafe and plenty of picturesque picnicking spots on the island. Kobba Klintar makes for a fascinating history lesson and a lovely day out on the water. It's a 20-minute boat ride from Mariehamn. If you don't have your own boat, you can catch a ride from Fiskelyckan or Shipland.

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    Sankta Maria Magdalena Kyrka

    The Sankta Maria Magdalena Kyrka was first built in the 14th century, but only the nave remains of this original building. Most of the structure was rebuilt in 1860, which explains the neo-Gothic detailing. The church is on an island south of Degerby, connected by a bridge and a scenic road. During a 1967 restoration, workers found an old crucifix containing a bone and a parchment, leading folks to believe it was a relic of Mary Magdalene herself.

  • See

    Sankt Göran’s Kyrka

    The copper-roofed Sankt Göran’s Kyrka, built in 1927, is one of the island's few modern churches. Its art-nouveau style was conceived by Lars Sonck, who grew up in Åland. Look for the art-nouveau flourishes painted on the ceiling and brilliant stained-glass windows by Bruno Tuukkanen. The highlight of the interior is the glittering mosaic altarpiece, also by Tuukkanen.