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Åland Archipelago

Glorious Åland Archipelago is the sunniest spot in northern Europe and its sweeping white-sand beaches and flat, scenic cycling routes attract crowds of holidaymakers during summer. Yet outside the lively capital, Mariehamn, a sleepy haze hangs over the islands’ tiny villages: finding your own remote beach among the 6500 skerries (rocky islets) is surprisingly easy. A lattice of bridges and free cable ferries connects the central islands, while larger car ferries run to the archipelago’s outer reaches.

And yet, Åland is a geopolitical anomaly: it is Finnish owned and Swedish speaking, but it has its own parliament, flies its own blue, gold and red flag, issues its own stamps and uses its own web suffix: ‘dot ax’. Its ‘special relationship' with the EU means it can sell duty-free and make its own gambling laws.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Åland Archipelago.

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Bomarsund Fästningsruin
Following the war of 1808–09, Russia began building this major military structure as its westernmost defence against the Swedes. The fortress was still incomplete when the Crimean War began in 1854, and a French-British naval force bombarded it heavily from the sea. Within four days the Russians were forced to surrender it. The evocative ruins stretch for a couple of kilometres, straddling the road and overlooking the sea. Across the water on Prästö, the small Bomarsund Museum displays excavated artefacts.
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Kastelholms Slott
One of Åland’s premier sights is this striking 14th-century castle on a picturesque inlet (signposted off Rd 2). The keep towers are 15m high in parts, with walls of 3m-thick red granite; it’s easy to see how it would once have ruled over Åland. Exhibits showcase the castle’s evolution and archaeological finds, including a medieval silver-coin hoard. English-language tours (included in admission) depart at 2pm Saturday and Sunday from June to early August and last around 45 minutes.
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Sjöfartsmuseum
Preserved boats make up most of the exhibitions at this state-of-the-art museum exploring Åland's marine heritage; the centrepiece is a reproduction of a ship, complete with mast, saloon, galley and cabins. The museum is a great place to discover your inner pirate, with plenty of ships in bottles, sea chests and accoutrements. Anchored outside is the Museumship Pommern, a beautiful 1903-built four-masted merchant barque that's due to reopen after restoration works in 2019.
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Museumship Pommern
Anchored just behind the Sjöfartsmuseum, this beautifully preserved, four-masted, merchant barque was built in 1903 in Glasgow, Scotland. The ship once carried tonnes of cargo and a 26-man crew on the trade route between Australia and England. Its record run was a speedy 110 days. The ship closed to visitors in 2016 for a major restoration, and was due to reopen in Spring 2019.
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Kumlinge Apotek
It's worth a small purchase to glimpse the fantastic interior of this old-fashioned pharmacy. Inside a red house, the apothecary cabinets are lined with colourful bottles and labelled drawers, while a curious multiple-pendulum balance scale sits on the counter. The place is still in business.
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Käringsund Harbour
About 2km north of Storby, Käringsund harbour is delightfully picturesque, with rustic red wooden boathouses reflected in the calm waters. A nature trail leads to a small beach; Käringsund Resort rents out canoes and rowing boats.
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Post och Tullhuset
Designed by German architect CL Engel, Storby’s Post & Customs House is now a hub for local artists, with exhibitions, artisan shops and a terrific cafe. The grand building was completed in 1828, during the era of Russian Tsar Alexander I, as a show of might to Sweden (as Åland was the Russian Empire's westernmost extremity at the time). It was a crucial point on the Sweden–Finland Mail Rd, detailed in the one-roomed mailboat museum.
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Sjökvarteret
At the northern end of Österhamn, Sjökvarteret has long been devoted to boat building. You can stroll along the atmospheric quay, lined with traditional schooners, and perhaps see boats under construction. The museum, with exhibitions on shipbuilding (no English information), is located in a small timber boat shed. Don't miss the tiny reconstructed seafarers’ chapel at the end of the pier.
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Kobba Klintar
Since 1862 a beacon has shone out from this island south of Mariehamn. Nowadays, the original pilot cottage is dwarfed by a bigger and better house with foghorn. There's no longer a pilot at this station, so the renovated buildings are used for art exhibitions, literary events and jazz concerts. There's a summertime cafe and plenty of picturesque picnicking spots on the island. Kobba Klintar makes for a fascinating history lesson and a lovely day out on the water.