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Ecuador's north coast doesn't make it onto the itineraries of many international travelers – it's hard to compete in a country that offers so much variety. But for surfers, backwoods explorers and nature lovers, this is a hidden treasure.
Here you'll find quiet beaches, uncrowded waves, little-explored mangrove forests, indigenous jungle settlements and entrancing Afro-Ecuadorian villages.
Further south, the sun-kissed beach towns of Same, Mompiche and Canoa are the top backpacker draws, with good surf, peaced-out vibes and bacchanalian booze-ups that carry on 'til dawn.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout North Coast & Lowlands.
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The Tsáchila people number about 3000; their eight communities spread across a 10500-sq-km reserve around Santo Domingo. A community tour is available that includes a demonstration of plants used for medicinal purposes, an explanation of customs and traditions, and even dancing. Locals produce lovely hand-woven goods in their signature wild rainbow colors, as well as jewelry.
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Millions of migratory birds pass through this coastal paradise in June and July, creating a cacophonous and memorable spectacle. The 513 sq km reserve supports five species of mangrove, and includes the tallest mangrove forest in the world – Manglares de Majagual – near the villages of La Tola and Olmedo. Most of the reserve is at sea level and none of it is above 35m. San Lorenzo lies in the middle of the reserve, making it a good base for exploration.
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Revolutionary and two-time president Eloy Alfaro was born in Montecristi, and here is an amazing tribute to the man: a hilltop museum with a panoramic view of the city below. There' s an old train engine in honor of Alfaro's pioneering efforts with the Guayaquil–Quito line connecting the Andes to the Pacific, and gobs of letters and artifacts honoring the person who brought dignity, citizenship and military rank to the nation's formerly dispossessed: the indigenous, the Afro-Ecuadorians and women.
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We're hoping this reserve, 26 km south of Perdanales and 3km off the main highway, opens to tourism soon. Last we heard, Third Millenium Alliance (www.tmalliance.org) was working with the community and government to establish accessible trail-heads and basic services. In this wonderland of biodiversity, more than 40 new frog species have been discovered since 2009, and its grounds are designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by Birdlife International. It's currently possible to volunteer here by contacting Third Millenium Alliance.
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Half an hour upstream from Playa de Oro, this 100-sq-km reserve is owned and operated by the community of Playa de Oro. It borders the Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas and protects native jungle cats – but you'll need to work hard to sight one. Visits to the reserve can be organized through the Maquipucuna NGO, located near Mindo. If you're staying at one of Playa de Oro's lodges, you can also coordinate a visit through your hosts.
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The east end of this stretch of sand is a hive of activity early in the mornings, as vendors sell row upon row of shark, tuna, swordfish, dorado and other fish (the sizes of which decrease with each passing year). You’ll also find the so-called Parque del Marisco here: lots of stalls serving up fresh seafood in a variety of styles right on the beach, including what locals will swear to you is the best ceviche in the country.
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Bird-watchers shouldn't miss a visit to Isla Corazon, where you can take guided tours through mangroves in search of frigate birds, herons, egrets and other species. It's 7km east of San Vicente, reachable by bus ($0.50) or taxi ($5). For tours, contact Francisco Reyes (99-938-4425) or Oscar Ortiz (98-471-0814, www.sanplaya.com). Pickup at local hotels for an additional $10.
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Only 2km from Muisne, this 6.5-sq-km marine reserve established by Jatun Sacha in 2000 focuses on mangrove conservation and organic aquaculture. Volunteers are needed, but visitors are also welcome. There are great opportunities for snorkeling and scuba diving, plus comfortable private cabins with seafood on the menu. Room and full board costs $40 per person per day.
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This beach is less protected than most beaches in the area and has bigger waves (although they’re not very big) along with a powerful undertow. It’s a couple of kilometers northwest of downtown (near Hotel Balandra) and is the town’s most popular beach, backed by snack bars, restaurants and umbrella-rental spots.