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These two departments are home to Popayán, one of Colombia's most charming cities, plus two of the country's most important archaeological sites – San Agustín and Tierradentro. Here you'll also find the peculiar Desierto de la Tatacoa, a striking anomaly near Neiva, halfway between Bogotá and San Agustín.
In the days of river travel in Colombia, both Cauca and Huila were major hubs of commerce. The introduction of the railroad and highways in the early 20th century stunted their growth, and these days a sleepy languor envelops the region.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Cauca & Huila.
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This 78-hectare archaeological park is 2.5km west of the town of San Agustín. There are over 130 statues in the park in total, either found in situ or collected from other areas, including some of the best examples of San Agustín statuary, with human or animal features, or a mixture of the two. Don't miss the carved tombs either. Reputable guides congregate around the museum.
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Scattered across the hills around the little town of San Andrés de Pisimbalá, Tierradentro's Parque Arqueológico includes four tomb sites, an above-ground statuary and two museums. Tickets for the Parque Arqueológico are inside the museum complex, a 25-minute walk from the town. You're given a 'passport,' valid for two consecutive days, enabling entrance to all sites, accessible via a 14km walk. Visit the museums before the tombs, as there's not much in the way of explanation at the sites themselves.
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Technically not a desert but a landscape of red and gray rock, sculpted by ancient waterways, the Desierto de Tatacoa is one of Colombia's most unique ecosystems. It lies 4km east of Villavieja and can be explored on foot or by bicycle.
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On Tuesday, market day, members of the Guambiano community come down from their surrounding villages to Silvia to sell fruit, vegetables and handicrafts. This is the best time to visit the town. It is not a tourist market – fruit and vegetables, raw meat, discount clothing and household items dominate – but you may find a poncho or woven backpack that takes your fancy. The main attraction is seeing the Guambiano themselves in traditional dress.
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Located across the Río Magdalena 4km southwest of San José de Isnos (26km northeast of the town of San Agustín), this is the second-most important archaeological park in the region after the Parque Arqueológico. Its stone carvings include the largest anthropomorphic statue in the San Agustín area, which is 7m tall but with only 4m visible above ground. Take an Isnos-bound bus (COP$2500) and ask to be let off at the entrance.
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This site is 7km north of Isnos and has tombs lined with stone slabs, some of which still show traces of red, black and yellow coloring. One of the most famous statues, known as Doble Yo, is here; look carefully as there are actually four figures carved in this statue. You'll also find an intriguing statue of a female figure in an advanced state of pregnancy.
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Dating back to the late 18th century, Popayán's largest colonial church is also its most beautiful. Inside are a fine high altar and a collection of seven unique side altars. The 1983 earthquake cracked open the ossuary, revealing six unidentified mummies. Two are left; ask in the office to the right of the entrance to have a look at them.
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This 18th-century house is the home of world-renowned Colombian artist Edgar Negret, whose vast abstract iron sculptures dot plazas around the country. The Museo Iberoamericano de Arte Moderno de Popayán (MIAMP) section showcases notable works by Colombian and South American artists from the period 1940–1990.
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Former Tatacoa Observatory resident astronomer Javier Rua Restrepo now runs his own observatory around 1km further away from town. He is a dynamic teacher who clearly loves his work and he has a number of high-quality telescopes for visitors to use. Talks at 6:30pm daily are in Spanish only.