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The department of Boyacá evokes a sense of patriotism among Colombians; it was here that Colombian troops won their independence from Spain at the Battle of Boyacá. The department is dotted with quaint towns; you could easily spend a few days bouncing between them. Boyacá's crown jewel is the spectacular Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy, located 154 miles (249km) northeast of the department capital, Tunja, though access has been cut back by park officials.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Boyacá.
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At 120m by 120m, Plaza Mayor is one of the largest town squares in the Americas. It's paved with massive cobblestones and surrounded by magnificent colonial structures and a charmingly simple parish church. Only a small, central Mudejar fountain, which provided water to the villagers for almost four centuries, interrupts the vast expanse. In most Colombian cities the main square is named after a historic hero, but this one is traditionally and firmly called Plaza Mayor.
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This very well-done archaeological museum was built on the remains of Sogamoso's Muisca cemetery and highlights this very important Chibcha-speaking culture – among others – through art, ceramics, sculpture, music and paleontology. The most interesting exhibits include the mummified remains of a cacique (tribal leader) and the spine-shivering shrunken-head techniques of the Jivaros and Shiworas peoples. The grounds include a replica of the Temple of the Sun, the Muisca necropolis destroyed by the Spanish (by accident, according to the chronicles: they were inspecting its dark interior with torches) in 1537. The museum's a 20-minute walk from the bus station. There's a pleasant cafe.
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Villa de Leyva's best museum features works by one of Colombia's most influential painters, sculptors, writers and historians, Luis Alberto Acuña (1904–93), who was inspired by sources ranging from Muisca mythology to contemporary art. Set up in the mansion where Acuña lived for the last 15 years of his life, this museum is the most comprehensive collection of his work in Colombia. There's a fine patio containing some of Acuña's indigenous-themed murals and a little shop out front. If the door's closed, ring the bell.
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This colonial mansion has an intimate courtyard with an abundance of plants and trees surrounding a fountain. The front section houses shops, and there's a large patio with restaurants out the back.
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This parish church facing the main square was built in 1608 and has hardly changed since that time. The interior is plain, except for the marvelous baroque main retable.
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This church is currently in religious service and has interesting paintings in the chancel and on the wooden structure supporting the roof.
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Antonio Nariño was known as the forefather of Colombia's independence and Casa Museo de Antonio Nariño is the house where he spent the last two months of his life before succumbing to a lung infection in 1823. Nariño was a fierce defender of human rights and is also revered for translating Thomas Paine's Rights of Man into Spanish. The house has been converted into a museum containing colonial objects and memorabilia related to this great man. The friendly staff will guide you through the museum on request.
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Apparently one of best museums of religious art in the country, the Museo del Carmen is housed in the convent of the same name. The fairly average collection of paintings, carvings, altarpieces and other religious objects dates from the 16th century onward. Some of the pieces are a little soiled and many of them are anonymous, but there are several notable works by colonial-era Colombian artists Gaspar Figueroa and Gregorio Vázquez.
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Antonio Ricaurte fought under Bolívar and is remembered for his act of self-sacrifice in the battle of San Mateo (near Caracas in Venezuela) in 1814. Defending an armory and closely encircled by the Spaniards, he let them in, then set fire to the gunpowder kegs and blew up everyone, including himself. The battle was won. This building is the house where Ricaurte was born in 1786. It's now a museum displaying period furniture and weapons, and has pleasant gardens.