Xining

Museum

Exhibitions in the north hall focus on Tibetan medicine, astronomy and science. Many visitors come for the 618m-long thangka scroll in the south hall – the world’s longest – which charts most of Tibetan history. Completed in 1997, it’s not very old but it is unbelievably long and took 400 artists four years to complete. There's a decent amount of signage in English. A guided tour in English of the north hall is ¥200 and for the south hall it's ¥360.

Mosque

As becomes quickly evident to even the most casual observer, about one-third of Xining’s population is Muslim, and although the city's biggest mosque may not be the prettiest, it’s one of the largest mosques in China and is certainly an imposing sight. Friday lunchtime prayers regularly attract 50,000 worshippers, who spill out onto the streets before and afterwards. And, during Ramadan (斋月), as many as 300,000 come here to pray, with police closing off the streets to traffic.

Mosque

This beautiful and recently constructed mosque is really quite an astonishing sight. Built from marble and a variety of other stones and carved tilework, the entire complex is a photogenic opportunity. The main prayer hall is usually out of bounds to non-Muslims (although you may also be allowed in), but you are certainly welcome to wander the grounds.

Park

This park, which is also known as Fènghuáng Shān (凤凰山), rises above Xining south of town. The grounds are home to two Buddhist temples: Nánchán Sì and Fǎchuáng Sì (法幢寺). In between them is a path that leads up to the hill where you'll find more walking paths and panoramic views of the city. Fortune tellers assemble on the steps on they way up, charging ¥30.

Ruins

One or two isolated sections of Xining’s Tang dynasty city wall still remain, the most accessible being this short stretch within a park on Kunlun Zhonglu. It is part of the south wall of ancient Qingtang city and was built in 1034, though different portions were erected, repaired or left to crumble over subsequent centuries. The wall’s remains – an overgrown dirt embankment – aren’t all that impressive; however, the tiered pathways that wind through the park make for a pleasant stroll.

Museum

At the east end of Xinning Sq (Xīnníng Guǎngchǎng), this provincial museum looks like an ominous government building from afar. Once inside, galleries range from fairly dull provincial economics to historical photos of Xining, and an excellent ground-floor exhibit on Tibetan arts, including some beautiful Qing-dynasty thangka and Buddhist statues. English signage is limited. Take your passport.

Buddhist Site

Standing atop Phoenix Mountain, this Buddhist temple overlooks Xining from the south. The temple was built during the Northern Song dynasty (960–1127), though most of the current structures date to the Qing (1644–1912). It is the oldest Chan (Chinese Zen) Buddhist temple in Qinghai province – a quiet spot with good views of the city. The Thousand Buddha Hall at the rear contains a multi-armed Guanyin and myriad small Buddhas.

Gallery

This vast, internally attractive and ambitious art museum on the south side of Xinning Sq displays art and calligraphy by artists from Qinghai and around China. Though the building covers five floors, only two floors were open at the time of writing. Entrance is free, but you have to obtain a ticket at the window outside the entrance. Large bags must also be checked here. Take your passport.

Buddhist Site

This Taoist temple at the foot of a barren hill on Xining’s north side is nothing special but halfway up the steep climb to the top you pass cave temples and shrines that are thought to be 1700 years old. A pagoda and great views of the city await at the top. Take a taxi (¥15 from town). If taking the bus, alight at Běishān Shìchǎng (北山市场), walk under the railway tracks and skirt around west and north to the temple's entrance.