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As Cancún is the northern entry point into Belize from Mexico, many travelers save a chunk of change by flying in here and bussing or driving down to their final destination. Passing through the flat farmland and provincial towns of Northern Belize, relatively few are inspired to linger.
But this chilled-out stretch of Belize, entirely void of crowds, with unbeaten paths, abundant wildlife, fine Maya ruins and deserted beaches is well worth a look if you're seeking to get away from the scene further south. What's more, Corozal and Sarteneja, both attractive coastal towns, are easily accessible by boat from San Pedro.
Northern Belize comprises two districts: Corozal and Orange Walk, both traversed by the straight, flat Philip Goldson Hwy. Off the main road, adventurous travelers will find pretty fishing villages, pristine jungles, ancient Maya cities and anachronistic Mennonite communities.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northern Belize.
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Perhaps the most fascinating Maya site in Northern Belize, Lamanai lies 24 miles south of Orange Walk Town up the New River (or 36 miles by unpaved road). The ruins are known both for their impressive architecture and marvelous setting, surrounded by dense jungle overlooking the New River Lagoon. Climbing to the top of the 125ft High Temple to gaze out across the vast jungle canopy is an awe-inspiring experience that is not to be missed.
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The Mask Temple (Structure N9-56) was begun around 200 BC and modified several times up to AD 1300. It has two 13ft stylized masks of a man in a crocodile headdress emblazoned on its west face to the north and south of the main stairs. Dating from about AD 400, these are considered some of the finest big masks in the Maya world.
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Run by a nonprofit organization, this large nature reserve, which protects 43 sq miles of semideciduous hardwood forests, wetlands, lagoons and coastal mangrove belts, has its headquarters 3.5 miles southwest of Sarteneja on the road to Orange Walk. Lying in a transition zone between Central America's tropical forests and a drier Yucatán-type ecosystem, the reserve's mosaic of habitats is rare in Belize. You can also stay overnight here.
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Santa Rita was an ancient Maya coastal town that once occupied the same strategic trading position as present-day Corozal Town, namely the spot between two rivers – the Río Hondo (which now forms the Belize-Mexico border) and the New River (which enters Corozal Bay south of town). Much of Santa Rita remains unexcavated, but it's worth a short excursion out of town to explore the site.
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North of the ball court, across a plaza shaded by trees, is Structure N10-43, the highest at Lamanai, which rises 125ft above the jungle canopy. Few large buildings in the Maya world were built as early as this one, which was initially constructed around 100 BC. You can climb to its summit for fabulous panoramas over the rest of Lamanai, the New River Lagoon, and plains and forests stretching out on all sides.
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This temple (Structure N10-9), fronting a 100yd-wide plaza, was built in the 6th century AD and modified several times up to at least the 15th century – a fine example of the longevity of the Lamanai settlement. The stone patterning on the lowest-level turns depicts two cleverly designed jaguar faces, dating from the initial 6th-century construction. On the opposite (north) side of the plaza is a set of buildings that were used as residences for Lamanai's royal elite.
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For a taste of how Belize's many majestic ruins may have looked to early explorers before being excavated and landscaped, head to this vast jungle-covered Maya site just off the Philip Goldson Hwy. Meaning 'Great Mound' in Maya, Nohmul (noh-mool) was a town of 3000 people during the late Classic Period. The ruins – and Belize – made headlines in 2013 when a construction company bulldozed one of the site's main temples in order to obtain material for road construction.
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The ruins at Cerro Maya make up the only Maya site in Belize that occupies beachfront property. It is composed of a series of temples built from about 50 BC. While the site is mostly a mass of grass-covered mounds, the center has been cleared and two structures are visible. Be warned: Cerro Maya can get very very buggy, especially during the rainy season; cover up and don't skimp on the bug spray!
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North of the elite residential complex, this temple was the original site of the intricately carved standing stone erected in AD 625 to commemorate the accession of Lord Smoking Shell in AD 608 that is now on display in the site museum. A faithful replica has been placed in front of the temple in the original position.